It's all about striking a pose, with a bold silhouette like this one, at the moment. I love the strong shoulder on this coat. A power shoulder says strength and this follows a trend that has been pioneered by brands such as Balenciaga, who has continued to push very distinct shapes in outerwear.
Martine Rose is London's home grown answer to Balenciaga, stealthily building a healthy men's and women's fashion brand which recently received investment. One thing to note is, this coat is made from cotton in Mauritius, but it would be great to get the same shape in solid worsted wool from a great British factory. You could always buy separate shoulder pads and stick them in your favourite overcoat.
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This was the coat getting the most attention during the AW20 trade shows. From Florence to Paris, I saw many men’s buyers and press trying this on and oooing and aring with the best of them.
Left & Below - Descente x Gloverall Down Duffle - £1300
Descente Ltd. is a Japanese sports clothing and accessories company, formed in 1935, when Takeo Ishimoto started the company in Osaka as Ishimoto Shoten. The company logo depicts 3 basic skiing techniques - traverse, schuss and side-slip. It’s another one of those under-the-radar Japanese brands producing minimal yet beautiful product.
This tie-up with Gloverall will be for the Japanese market foremost, but we can all enjoy its tech fabrics in the signature, classic Duffle coat style. I’ve gone for Gloverall’s signature ‘stone’, but it also comes in navy with this striking high-vis orange lining.
Made from a uniquely developed CEBONNER® Horns Nylon fabric, it has a natural wool-like feel and features high water repellence. The Parahood system, uniquely developed by Descente, stops the water pooling inside the hood as it is compactly stored. A ‘Para-zip’ is easily accessible ensuring the hood can be released rapidly in one movement plus it features the internal hiking straps first showcased in Gloverall’s SS20 collection.
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