Displaying items by tag: Tom Ford

Orlebar Brown patterned men's trousers Menswear blue Packard SS22Sun, sea and style, the tropical trouser is timeless for any gentleman's holiday season. Made famous by Lillian Pulitzer Rousseau, better known as Lilly Pulitzer, an American socialite and designer, the brightly coloured and highly patterned trouser baton was picked up by Tom Ford who often produces them in his summer and loungewear collections.

Orlebar Brown patterned men's trousers Menswear blue Packard SS22It's all about confidence. Orlebar Brown has really run with the colour and print lately and the whole brand is stronger for it. These Packard trousers also come with a matching hat and neckerchief. They've styled it correctly - right - just ditch the flip-flops and add a sandal. Stick to a plain, solid top - white, blue or black linen would work and sun hat.

Just add white sand, SPF and a palm tree.

Left & Below - Orlebar Brown - Packard - Blues Island Life Drawcord Trousers - £295

Below - Vintage Lilly Pulitzer Adverts

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Vintage lilly Pulitzer patterned men's trousers Menswear blue Packard SS22

Vintage lilly Pulitzer patterned men's trousers Menswear blue Packard SS22

Published in Men
Wednesday, 26 January 2022 10:02

Menswear Trend Contemporary Blue Boy

Blue Boy Gainsborough fashion ASOS DESIGN Menswear blue silk satin SS22Do you know what there isn’t enough of in men’s fashion? Blue satin!

Returning after 100 years, Thomas Gainsborough’s 1770  ‘The Blue Boy’ takes pride of place at London's National Gallery. This is the first time the painting has been loaned by The Huntington in California. It is a once-in-a-century opportunity to see this iconic work in the UK. 

Taking our inspiration from this fine young man, look for light silk satin pieces in sky blue shades to take you from day to night in the warmer summer months.

National Gallery - Until 15 May 2022

Blue Boy Gainsborough fashion Tom Ford MR PORTER Menswear blue silk satin SS22Left - ASOS DESIGN - Regular Satin Shirt with Shawl Neck in Blue - £28.00

Below - TOM FORD - Velvet-Trimmed Stretch-Silk Satin Pyjama Trousers - £580 from MR PORTER

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Blue Boy Gainsborough fashion ASOS DESIGN Menswear blue silk satin SS22

 

Published in Men
Monday, 29 November 2021 23:02

Film House of Gucci

House of Gucci film review geekTheChicGeek says, "If you received a Teddy Ruxpin in the 1980’s your parents had money. Alessandra Gucci, the daughter of Maurizio and Patrizia Gucci, in the new film, House of Gucci, unwraps the talking teddy bear at their ski chalet in St. Moritz just as her parents’ marriage is starting to disintegrate.

The film centres on the grandson of the Gucci founder and his rollercoaster relationship and ultimate murder under his wife’s auspices, played by Lady Gaga.

Left - The Gucci Mob

Gaga is intense and totally commited, down to the bad make-up, Jared Leto is unrecognisable as Maurizio’s cousin, Paolo Gucci. Al Pacino is like a mob boss as his uncle, Aldo, while Jeremy Irons adds some class as Rodolfo Gucci, Maurizio’s father, who early on knew the true motivation for Patrizia.

The film has a great soundtrack, though it doesn’t correspond exactly with the timeline, add in New York, disco and glamour and it brings to mind the recent Halston series with Ewan McGregor. I didn't realise Maurizio was still at Gucci when Tom Ford arrived to completely reinvent the brand.

The styling is good. Gucci’s famous snaffle loafers make a starring role, plus there’s a few Jackie bags and monogrammed prints. This will only propel the mega-brand to even greater exposure and popularity. Even the bad 1980’s jewellery. This film is a reseller’s dream. 

The only jarring moments were the disco scene at the beginning - it wasn’t very 70s and looked like a made- for-movie set with strange dance floor - and Domenico de Sole’s white socks - not sure any Italian of taste would wear white sports socks with black shoes.

Paolo Gucci’s eccentric and mocked designs could surely have found at home with the Etro family?! And the budget Wintour and Leon Talley are funny.

The film is hammy, but that’s okay because every actor is committed. I thoroughly enjoyed it."

House of Gucci film review geek

House of Gucci film review geek

House of Gucci film review geekFrom Top:

Lady Gaga as Patrizia Reggiani (Gucci)

Jared Leto as Paolo Gucci

Adam Driver as Maurizio Gucci

Salma Hayek as 'psychic' Pina Auriemma

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Published in News

Gucci Tom Ford Red Velvet Suit

The sign of a confident and secure designer is one who acknowledges the strengths and triumphs of their predecessors. If you were into fashion in the mid 1990s, then there would have been no avoiding Tom Ford’s first collection for Gucci and its luxe and louche velvet suits. This collection was almost as significant as Dior’s New Look in 1947 at catapulting a brand into the spotlight. Tom Ford’s Gucci was sexy as hell.

Over 25 years later, and in Gucci’s 100th year, designer Alessandro Michele has paid homage to this pinnacle of the Tom Ford’s Gucci era and it's looking as timeless as ever. Though it would probably be cheaper buying a 90s original from a vintage seller or auction, not to mention a better investment.

Left & Below - Gucci - Stretch Velvet Jacket With Padded Shoulders - £ 2,250

www.gucci.com

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Gucci Tom Ford Red Velvet Suit

Published in Men

balenciaga gucci hackNo creative worth their salt will ever admit to being out of ideas. Even no idea is an idea these days. Collabs. have become the go-to to fill the gaps in fashion’s creativity and its continual appetite for product over the past decade. Two empty heads are always better than one?

Fashion is a cycle and like the Ouroboros, an ancient symbol depicting a serpent or dragon eating its own tail, it goes around and around. But, today, that coil has become so tight it has almost devoured itself. In a ‘pop will eat itself’ moment, former rivals are now collaborating and even swapping creative roles, while retailers, desperate for new ideas are trying to incubate new designers, labels and ideas to fill the ideas vacuum. 

Is fashion officially out of ideas?

The biggest ‘hacking’ of the season, (not a collab. anymore - FYI), was the tie up between Balenciaga and Gucci. Both Kering brands, and in Gucci’s centenary year, Gucci’s ‘Aria’ collection, meaning air in Italian, featured no-doubt sell out product the resellers will only dream about. 

Left - Balenciaga & Gucci's 'Hack' in retail form

Tagged as Balenciagucci or (Gucciaga), the internet blew up in April when Alessandro Michele added Balenciaga’s silhouettes and branding across Gucci product. 

Two of the biggest and most desirable names in luxury fashion merging like this is unprecedented. A classic Jackie bag was emblazoned with the diagonal Balenciaga font, while Balenciaga’s Triple S was reimagined with the recognisable Gucci Flora print.

If this wasn’t enough rehashing of ideas, the collection also mined the famous Tom Ford era of the mid to late 90’s, reproducing some of his vintage looks from the Gucci archive. Balenciaga’s creative director, Demna Gvasalia said on Instagram Stories after the Gucci show with regards to the homage to Tom Ford’s Gucci. “It really defined the decade in fashion, I think. But I love how today everything mixes in together — ’70s, ’90s, ’00s, etc. Anything is really possible and fashion is such a melting pot of the past, present, and future. That’s what makes it so special and intriguing I guess.” 

This product will be in great demand - it isn’t currently available on the main Gucci website - and is therefore guaranteed that it will be swapping hands for a premium when it enters the market. While fun, it does a reek of an ideas cul-de-sac.

Mario Abad, Fashion Editor at Paper Magazine wrote on Twitter (Nov 8th) “Something about Balenciaga tagging their stores with “Gucci” to mark the collab’s launch is making me lose it.”

fendi fendace versace swapThe biggest ‘swap’ of the SS22 season, (not a collab. anymore - FYI), was Fendi by Versace, Versace by Fendi. Donatella Versace and Fendi’s Kim Jones swapped roles and designed collections for each other’s brands. Versace and Fendi, Capri Holdings and LVMH brands, respectively, unveiled “two iconic collections that celebrate their friendship and the cultural impact of Versace and Fendi.” 

Right - Versace's Medusa looks very natural with Fendi's Greek key

Labelled ‘Fendace’, the collection saw Fendi directors Kim Jones and Silvia Venturini Fendi create 25 Versace looks while Donatella Versace reciprocated with 25 Fendi ensembles. Items included Fendi Baguette bags with Medusa heads and Versace’s signature safety pins scattered across Fendi looks all set to hit stores next spring.

fendace kim jones donatella versaceConsidering Kim Jones only joined Fendi as artistic director of women's collections in September 2020, we’ve yet to clearly see what he can do with the brand. He is also men’s creative director at the giant, LVMH owned, Dior. Fashion conglomerates are finding it increasingly hard to attract big names designers to their houses. Note Daniel Lee just exciting Bottega Veneta.

Left - Kim Jones & Donatella Versace at the launch of 'Fendace'

On the retailer front, MRPORTER.COM announced a competition to find the next menswear design stars to celebrate its 10th anniversary in April 2021. Called MR PORTER FUTURES, the three lucky candidates could not already own a registered or trademarked business with an annual turnover of over €10,000 and was open to anybody regardless of experience of background.

Sam Kershaw, Mr Porter buying director, “We have always been committed to championing a diverse mix of new and emerging designers throughout Mr Porter's decade in business, but if this year has taught us anything, it is that we have the responsibility to use our global platform to give equal opportunities to all new aspiring menswear voices, no matter their experience or background”

Announcing the winners in September 2021, MRPORTER said. “Fashion, after all, can be a tough place to succeed, and, if we’re being honest, isn’t quite as diverse as it could be. For all that it speaks to a global audience, the industry that drives it is largely centralised in just a handful of cities – historically New York, London, Milan and Paris – while talent is disproportionately drawn from a small number of high-profile schools.”

The winners began a year-long design programme to turn their ideas into reality. At the end of the year, they will debut their very own menswear collections exclusively on MR PORTER.

Exclusivity is the way forward for multi-brand luxury sites all battling for the same customers. This also offers MR PORTER the potential of a fresh wave of ideas and a newness that isn’t just another collaboration. It also looks as though it is supporting the fashion industry and diversity.

Tiffany SupremeAnother brand desperate for cool is Tiffany & Co. A much-rumoured high profile collaboration between Supreme and Tiffany & Co. is set to drop this week.

 Right - Would you return this to Tiffany? Tiffany & Co.s collab with Supreme

The VF and LVMH owned businesses’ collection called ‘Return To Tiffany’ is inspired by pieces originally launched in the 1960s and comprised of pendants, necklaces, bracelets, earrings, rings, and keyrings. Tiffany’s new CEO, Alexandre Arnault, was also the head of Rimowa when they did a collaboration with Supreme.

Fashion consumers have reached collaboration fatigue and this is why the big brands are spinning these as ‘hacks’ or ‘swaps’. It is also why they are upping the ante by partnering with brands of equal stature. Collaborations needed to get bigger to have any impact. Collaborations before were always a David and Goliath type relationship of big brand supporting little. There was no threat there and everybody knew who was the bigger and more important of the two. Where will the brands go from here?

These do look like a desperate grappling for new ideas and attention. Brands not coming up with fresh ideas and therefore not impressing the retailers is making them look elsewhere to nurture a new crop of ideas and designers, especially outside of the main fashion capitals. Considering fashion had something of a pandemic break, for the last 18 months, the latest round of shows in September didn’t feel like a group of creatives burgeoning with fresh ideas. It felt like an industry fully burnt out and these partnerships do nothing to argue against that.

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Published in Comment
Tuesday, 19 October 2021 15:45

Trend - Menswear Bits With Zips

Timothée Chalamet red carpet Dune London Alexander McQueen zips black metallicTheChicGeek says, "Category is ‘metallic zips’ after skinny clotheshorse, Timothée Chalamet, (or Chalametallic as I've renamed him for this!) hit the red carpet for the ‘Dune’ London premiere in an Alexander McQueen Spring 2022 suit. 

"Alexander McQueen's menswear is usually overly dressy, but this is relaxed, trying, but not too hard, and cool. I just wonder if all the zips actually work. The shoulders seem to in the lookbook image below. Expect this to be a big trend, moving forward in 2022, for the fast fashion menswear brands."

Timothée Chalamet red carpet Dune London Alexander McQueen zips black metallic

Timothée Chalamet red carpet Dune London Alexander McQueen zips black metallicLeft - Alexander McQueen Spring/Summer 2022

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Zip it.

Left - Alexander McQueen - Slim-Fit Logo Webbing-Trimmed Crepe Track Jacket - £890 from MRPORTER.COM

Below - Tom Ford - Buckley Briefcase - £2590

Timothée Chalamet red carpet Dune London Alexander McQueen zips black metallic tom ford buckley bag

Timothée Chalamet red carpet Dune London Alexander McQueen zips black metallic Burberry zip jacket

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Left - Burberry - Zip Panel Wool Silk Tailored Jacket - £1490

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Published in Men
Thursday, 04 February 2021 17:38

Paco Rabanne 1 Million Still Top

top UK men's fragrance lookfantastic paco rabanne 1 millionA new study by online beauty retailer LOOKFANTASTIC has revealed that Paco Rabanne 1 Million is still the UK's favourite men's fragrance. The study analysed Google search volumes of over 70 of the top-selling male fragrances in each country across the globe, revealing the most popular worldwide.

Paco Rabanne's 1 Million also came out as the top fragrance in 26 other countries such as New Zealand and Canada too. Tom Ford Tobacco Vanille came in second, coming in top across 22 countries and Jean Paul Gaultier Le Male came in third by being the most popular in 20 countries across the world.

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Published in News
Wednesday, 11 November 2020 16:05

ChicGeek Comment How The Jockstrap Went Mainstream

jockstrap goes mainstream Nike Calvin Klein Kust

When Nike released its first branded men’s jockstrap in the middle of October it was an instant sell out. Twitter went into a digital meltdown and demand was palpable. It was the perfect product at the perfect time and was a great debut for Nike’s new men’s underwear range.

Left - The Nike Jockstrap sold out on ASOS (Nov. 2020)

The year before, in April 2019, Nike and PVH Corp. announced a new licensing agreement to design and distribute Nike branded men’s underwear worldwide. It was a natural product category extension for the nearly $40 billion a year sportswear behemoth.

“We are incredibly proud to be working with Nike, as this is an opportunity for two great companies to build on each other’s strengths, making it a win-win for everyone, especially consumers,” PVH’s Cheryl Abel-Hodges, president of Calvin Klein North America and The Underwear Group, said in a statement at the time. It also said PVH Corp.’s The Underwear Group would expand its strong portfolio which includes Calvin Klein, Tommy Hilfiger, Olga, Warner’s and True & Co.

The men’s underwear category was ripe for a tie-up with a sportswear company and their expertise in technical support, cleaning and fabrics. The new Nike jockstrap was the debut product to make a digital splash while illustrating how this traditional sports style has hit the mainstream.

Troy Daniels, @justcantstahp, says, “Nike has a jock because Calvin Klein released a jock. Calvin Klein manufacturers the underwear for Nike. So the question is actually why did Calvin Klein release a jockstrap?” he says.

“It’s because a cadre of homosexuals who work at the European Corporate Office saw the trend of niche jockstrap manufacturers exploding (Exterface, Bristle, Coyote, Darkroom, Jock, Bad Butt, Gizeppe, etc.) and thought that the world’s most identifiable underwear brand would be remiss not to have a jockstrap in their underwear portfolio. So blame it on the gays.” he says.

jockstrap goes mainstream Nike Calvin Klein Kust

If the branded jockstrap at Calvin Klein hadn’t proven to be so popular, then PVH Corp. wouldn’t have pushed it as one of the first products of the new Nike license. They would have gone for something far safer. Add the huge trend of male exhibitionism, on some social media channels, and its opportunity to showcase branded underwear, and you have a huge marketing opportunity.

The jock straps roots are in sports. Wikipedia states, “The jockstrap was invented in 1874 by C. F. Bennett of a Chicago sporting goods company, Sharp & Smith, to provide comfort and support for bicycle jockeys working the cobblestone streets of Boston. In 1897 Bennett's newly formed Bike Web Company patented and began mass-producing the Bike Jockey Strap.”

Jane Garner Co-Founder of Deadgoodundies.com, an online retailer stocking the best international brands of men's underwear and swimwear, selling to customers in more than 80 countries, says, “Deadgoodundies has always stocked jockstraps. Early on designs were mostly cotton, sporty and practical, but in recent years sexy, colourful and uplifting fashion jocks have taken over and proved very popular. With DGU customers, the smaller the underwear the more popular it will be.”

Right - Polish underwear brand, Kust

Regarding the Nike launch, Garner says, “We love any brand launch that encourages men to discover and try new underwear shapes, styles and fabrics. Male shoppers are not always the most adventurous when it comes to men's underwear choices. If a guy starts wearing jockstraps as everyday underwear, rather than purely for sport or exercise, they will start to seek out the best, most comfortable and most carefully shaped designs.

“In mainstream fashion there has been a strong trend towards sporty clothing, so maybe the jockstrap's increasing popularity is part of that - not that too many men will be discussing their new undies as much as a pair of hot trainers.” she says.

The jockstrap definitely taps into the ever present sportswear category and as such is styled by many brands with trainers, caps and sports socks to illustrate this link.

Jakub Stachowiak, Founder & Owner of Kust, www.kuststore.com, a cult Polish underwear brand based in Sopot and specialising in modern and sustainable underwear, says “We do sell jockstraps. It was always one of the bestseller since we launched in 2018. Our version is minimalistic, with a wider waistband, inspired by retro aesthetic and what’s most important made of sustainable, organic cotton. We are targeting millennial + customer, who is looking for minimalistic, well designed and premium quality products.

“As the jockstraps’ origins are from sports, this is kind of matching for NIKE. Most of the brands now have a jockstrap in their offer. It has only been a few years since it became more gay and a fetish product rather than sport underwear. So it really depend how you present it in your offer.” says Stachowiak.

Versace and Armani already have jock straps in their range. For a product that is pure branding and combines sex and near nudity, it is being picked up by an increasingly younger group of male fans, particularly amongst gay men. The Nike jockstrap taps into this market while making a step into the mainstream.

Alex,@retr0fag, says, “I think that the Nike jockstrap is probably most popular amongst gay men. Jockstraps have become a staple fashion item in most gay men's underwear collection. Sportswear brands are fetishised by gay men, so it figures that a Nike jockstrap would sell very well with gay guys.”

He says, “I’m not sure why Nike would release it, whether it was a clever marketing strategy or just worked out well by chance. Exhibitionism on the internet has become quite a normal thing, with many guys posing in their underwear. And all the guys posing in their Nike jocks has heightened the appeal and made it a desirable fashion item.”

Alex P, @notorious_twub, says, “I think it’s a good idea from Nike, they’ve obviously analysed the jock market and have realised that they’re very popular with gay men. It’s a great idea as Nike’s already a pillar brand and I’m kind of surprised that it’s taken this long.

jockstrap goes mainstream Nike Calvin Klein Kust

It’s kind of putting this predominantly gay thing, which is fetishised, and bringing it to the main stream and taking the jockstrap back to its sporty origin. I’m not sure what their angle is, if it was meant to be seen as this revolutionary moment to bring jocks to the heterosexual male as a sexual look, or if it’s capitalising on a product we already know sells well and just using Nike’s brand popularity to boost sales. I feel that it’s great that a major brand are getting behind it. It’ll definitely cause some waves in the underwear industry.” he says.

Left - Men's underwear brand, Charlie by MZ, showing the connection between contemporary sportswear & the jockstrap

One thing is certain, men now knows that Nike does men’s underwear even if they're not ready for the jockstrap style . While women have had sophisticated and sexy underwear for many years, men haven’t, or have felt embarrassed about it showing off. It was a choice of boring, mundane styles or tacky, fetish type underwear. This is being readdressed by niche underwear brands, like Charlie by MZ, Kvrt Stvff and Kust, offering provocative yet cool imagery which proves to be cat nip on social media channels. The large license partners and brands have seen this and want in. They are tapping into this demand, particularly amongst young gay men.

The jock strap is an opportunity for a brand to make a splash online, but looking at Calvin Klein’s continual expansion of its jockstrap range, it must be selling. They also wouldn’t have risked producing a product for a new license partner that they didn’t think would sell well.

Thanks to social media, there is an increasing trend in demand for sexier underwear for men. By linking it back to sports will appeal to a broader range of guys. The jockstrap is now a must-have addition in any brand's underwear category. Expect brands like Tom Ford and adidas to follow.

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Published in Comment
Wednesday, 25 March 2020 19:50

ChicGeek Comment COVID 19 The Bounceback?

fashion covid 19 tom ford said china bounced backThere will be life after COVID 19, but it’s guesswork to how much and how quickly it resumes to pre-virus levels. American designer, Tom Ford, told WWD today, “In China, for example, with our cosmetics, we’ve completely recovered. We’re back to 100 percent. And our ready-to-wear and accessories, which was down about 95 percent, it’s now back up to 50 percent.” 

That is in just over a month. The Chinese saw a spike in infections on 12th February.

Tom Ford has just 4 own brand stores in China. His beauty brand, in partnership with Estée Lauder, will be available more widely. Tom Ford Beauty was projected to turn over $1 billion in global sales by 2020.

Admittedly, the person who can afford Tom Ford might be slightly more immune to a downturn than others, but it’s more the attitude and feel good factored needed to buy an expensive handbag that is interesting here. It’s a strong bounce back and one many other luxury brands will be looking and hoping for. 

Tom Ford, while a big name, is relatively mid-sized in terms of luxury with very select (limited) distribution. The brand generates an estimated $500 million in yearly revenues for its men's and women's ready-to-wear and accessorises. But, he will be sat alongside, in retail terms, the best of the world’s brands and designers, so it shows the Chinese shopper is back out.

Italy, the worst-affected country in Europe, is starting to see the number of new cases of Coronavirus cases start to fall. The peak in the country was four days ago, on March 21, when 6,557 new cases of the virus were reported. Two days later the number was down to 4,789 and, although yesterday the number increased again to 5,249, that is still 20% below the peak.

A week after South Korea hit its peak, which was much lower than major European countries at just 851 cases on March 3, the number of new recorded cases had dropped by 87%.

In Germany, the peak number of new cases was on March 21 at 4,528 cases. Yesterday, 24th March, the number of new cases was down to 3,935, a drop of 17%.

While we have to take Chinese virus numbers with a pinch of salt, it might not be as bad as we think for the fashion business after all. A strong domestic consumer bounceback will be the catalyst the fashion industry needs.

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Published in Fashion

Review 
Tom Ford Fucking Fabulous Conditioning Beard oil tried testedA decadent oriental leather fragrance in a blend of almond, jojoba, grapeseed oil and vitamin E.

TheChicGeek says, “A beard oil is a real treat product and one from Tom Ford even more so. Beard oil nourishes the beard and facial skin underneath and adding a fragrance makes this a product you could use instead of a traditional fragrance.

So, I had high hopes for this one. I was expect to keep rubbing my hands on my stubble and moustache to inhale the fragrance. 

The cult ‘Fucking Fabulous’ fragrance in this disappears very quickly and putting more on doesn’t counteract that. Also, at only 30ml, you’ll get through this very quickly and at £60 that’s very expensive. Within an hour or so the smell had completely disappeared. Men buying Tom Ford are buying into long lasting and powerful fragrances and this, sadly, falls flat in that department.”

Read more about 'Fucking Fabulous' here

Left - Tom Ford Fucking Fabulous Beard Oil - 30ml - £60

Disclosure - A sample was gifted by Tom Ford for review

Published in Grooming
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