He has previously done collections/collaborations with John Smedley, Kurt Geiger, Rowing Blazers, Habitat, Anthropologie, Lucy Folk, Richard Ginori, Stubbs & Wootton, and now GANT is added to the list. The man in question is Luke Edward Hall, a modern day Hockney with the eye for colour to match.
When GANT’s current Global Artistic Director, Christopher Bastin, return last year, the brand was due some quirky direction. I’ve always been a fan of what he did at the now defunct GANT Rugger brand.
"This collection takes its inspiration from my home in the English countryside, and how I spend weekends there with friends. From jumpers and tweed coats for stalking through fields to 1970s-inspired velvet suits and silk shirts for candlelit dinners, it’s ruggedly elegant and very English.” says Edward Hall.
He does the same thing for everybody, but that’s okay, because I like it. It’s the same eclectic rift as Gucci.
The standout piece is this cosy corduroy DB in rich reddy brown with brass buttons. It’s a shame they didn’t include one of Luke Edward Hall’s classical heads as pictured. They could have made it detachable. That aside, this is a classic and lifetime wearable piece.
Just add a pink dahlia!
Left & Below - Luke Edward Hall For GANT - Corduroy Blazer - £400
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An optimist will look at COVID 19 as a opportunity. From the current crisis in fashion and retail will come the chance to snap up valuable brands at distressed prices. But, what makes a brand truly valuable?
Left - 1950s Teddy Boy in his classic Crombie coat
It usually starts with the name and whether it has any longevity, goodwill or future.
If that name has entered everyday lexicon then it is a very rare and valuable asset indeed. Joining the likes of Sellotape and Hoover, it rarely happens in fashion when a brand becomes the generic term, but Crombie is one such brand.
Meaning a formally tailored, three-quarters length covert coat with a contrasting velvet collar, the Crombie coat had recently become associated with the likes of Nigel Farage and Del Boy and a kind of dated city boy look.
J&J Crombie Ltd. was founded by John Crombie and his son James in Aberdeen in 1805, making it one of Britain's oldest brands. Starting as a fabric manufacturer, Crombie moved into making coats to supply armies in America and the UK during the 19th and early 20th centuries. Crombie lists Cary Grant, Winston Churchill, King George VI, Dwight D Eisenhower and John F Kennedy as distinguished wearers. From 1995 to 2004, Crombie also held the Royal Warrant as a supplier to the Prince of Wales.
A modern classic, a Crombie coat was retailing for around £900, but that is now on hold.
The brand’s home page currently reads, “In light of current world events, we have now fully suspended our retail, wholesale and supporting administrative operations until further notice. We will continue to monitor the global situation and hope to resume operations in the fullness of time. We’d like to thank our many clients for their custom and patronage and wish everyone a safe and healthy summer.”
Right - 1980s Car Dealer Arthur Daley in his Crombie
The brand has been up for sale for a while. It was formally announced in March 2020, when owner, Alan Lewis, 82, through his investment company, Hartley Investment Trust, told Drapers, “We are willing to divest non-core assets such as Crombie, which we believe would be of particular interest to a focused fashion business with the infrastructure to efficiently scale up this brand internationally, or to a retail chain looking to bolster its portfolio of unique intellectual properties.
“Crombie’s worldwide trademarks allow for expansion and diversification into a wide range of product categories, including cosmetics and accessories.”
Crombie has one store located at 48 Conduit Street in London which it sold in Nov. 2019 to a private Chinese buyer for £9.9 million with the intention of Hartley Investment Trust still occupying the building. Crombie’s turnover to the year ending March 2019 was £523,000, with a loss before tax of nearly £300,000, this was an improvement on 2018 when it was nearly £400,000 on a turnover of £430,000.
Hartley Investment Trust has interests in banking, property, energy, leisure and retail. Lancashire-born Alan J Lewis, CBE, a former Conservative Party Vice-Chairman told the Yorkshire Post in 2012, “I came here (Slaithwaite, West Yorkshire) and took over Illingworth Morris which was a public company, which was in trouble and owed the banks about £50m with 6,000 people employed and I turned it around from a substantial loss to a substantial profit and shares went from 13p to 186p.
“We concentrated on ensuring that we invested in the high margin business, low volume, rather than high volume, low margin business, so really concentrating on the quality end and the creative end of the business, and that made an awful lot of money.”
In the 1980s, the group was one of the world’s biggest wool textiles manufacturers handling almost half the wool imported into the UK. The Illingworth Morris group included up-market knitwear maker Hawico, worsted spinning operations Daniel Illingworth, suiting makers Huddersfield Fine Worsteds, chemical business Westbrook Lanolin, Woolcombers, Winterbotham Strachan & Playne (the world’s leading supplier of cloth for tennis balls and billiards tables), and Crombie.
Left - Three out of the four Beatles are wearing Tommy Nutter suits on the Abbey Road cover
Mr Lewis took the company private, making vast profits and a net lender to the money market – heralding the formation of Hartley’s investment banking division, Hartley Investment Trust, in 1983.
Hartley divested many of the brands with the implosion of the UK’s textile industry, turning many of the old textile mills into residential property and business centres, but retained the ownership of Crombie.
Another important brand Lewis owns is the iconic tailor, Tommy Nutter. In 2014, after a four year high court battle, Lewis agreed to buy the rights to ‘Nutters of Savile Row’ which left him free to use the Tommy Nutter brand.
The year before, David Mason's 'Nutters Holdings' won the right from the UK's Intellectual Property Office for the Tommy Nutter trademark to be revoked from J&J Crombie due to non-use. Mr Lewis was ordered to pay costs of more than £3,000. However, he appealed against the decision, arguing that he had kept the name in use. A spokesman for Mr Lewis said at the time, "Crombie owns the Tommy Nutter brand, and every season a range of Tommy Nutter branded clothing is available in Crombie stores in the UK."
Previously, Mr Lewis had been in talks to sell ‘Tommy Nutter’, a brand he had started with Tommy Nutter in the early 1980s when he had parted ways with business partner Edward Sexton and ‘Nutters of Savile Row’, to a subsidiary of Fung Capital - the private investment arm of the billionaire Fung family of Hong Kong. The deal never materialised.
Tommy Nutter produced a variety of legendary designs under his own name - including Jack Nicholson's Joker costumes for the 1989 Batman movie - while Crombie supplied him with the cloth. He died in 1992.
What we have here, if sold together, are two of Britain’s greatest sleeping menswear brands. One traditional, loaded in history, the other, a pioneer and icon of tailored fashion, but both heaving in icons from statesman to superstars. Confucius once said, “The gem cannot be polished without friction” and, while it would take substantial investment to bring these menswear two brands back, they have a natural sparkle and value most brands don't.
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While I’m not sure when the suit will return, if ever, as a fashion thing, one of the lovely gentleman who works at Raeburn was wearing this on their stand at the recent Pitti Uomo. The penny dropped and I thought, this is how you wear a suit today.
Made out of a sort of shell material, it is easy care and looks modern and contemporary. Called the ‘Parasuit’ and crafted in the Raeburn Lab in East London using original dyed parachute material, it is reworked to achieve a textured and lightweight crinkle finish. This item is one of 50, and individually numbered and is the nearest thing to sportswear you're gonna find in a tailored shape. Great for travel too.
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They say the suit is on its way back, but the most important thing for tailoring brands to do is simply is give us suits that we want to wear. It sounds simple, but, if it's good, we'll wear it. I designed this suit with The Drop see more here
Based on something I already had in my wardrobe by Tom Ford, I had it remade in brown with a pink lining. The new trends coming out of the recent shows were for longer jackets in a double-breasted shape, see more here Whatever you do, just make sure the jacket covers your arse!
Lucky, it coordinates with the coloured elastic on my new Chelsea boots. Now, where's that party?
Credits - Suit - The Drop, Silk Shirt - Pretty Green, Boots - Base London
If you’re a stylish man you need a vertically striped suit in your wardrobe, this season. Trust me. Taking inspiration from one of Tim Burton's most stylish characters, Beetlejuice, the black and white is a little harsh and a bit too fancy dress, so it's lucky Pretty Green has this handsome two-piece in navy. One part Beetlejuice, one part 1960s Mod.
I’ve been looking for a nice vertically striped suit since last Summer when it became clear this was going to be a major trend and this fits the bill perfectly. The vertical stripes make you look taller and slimmer and, in this darker navy colour-way, it’s more evening and dressy. Wear with a simple T-shirt and loafers.
Left & Below - Pretty Green - Striped Single Breasted Blazer - £280, Boating Stripe Tailored Trousers - £135
See more character inspiration - The Hamburglar Sunglasses
Life outside of London?! Yes! Tailors, Clements & Church, are proof that by doing what you do well and slowly growing your retail network in wealthy pockets around the UK, you can build a healthy menswear business with a point of difference.
Left - All images Clements & Church SS16
Starting life a decade ago when Clements & Church’s Managing Director, Mark Nash, bought a tailor’s in the heart of Birmingham, they now have a further four shops in Oxford, Solihull, Leamington Spa, Beaconsfield and, now, online.
They’re not cheap, but then quality tailoring never is.
The Clements & Church’s localised tailors have a feel for their customers and, literally, tailor their offering to suit the area they are in. But, that doesn’t mean they don’t experiment. Using quality Italian and British fabrics, they design new styles of tailoring and accessories every season in bold fabrics and colours while still grounded with good taste. Many items are made in Britain and are an update of traditional designs and processes.
Mark Nash, says, “We have always wanted to combine the very best quality, with individuality and something different. If a customer was after something a bit different, when we first started, other than a navy or grey suit, they wouldn’t have been able to find it. We have filled that gap.
“Clements and Church is unique. We are an extension of our customers’ lifestyle and have fantastic relationships and a very high level of retention. We offer a product that has a sophisticated and distinctive look and we pride ourselves on our knowledge and service,” he adds.
Highly trained tailors are available to service customers for Bespoke and Custom Made suiting in each of their shops.
TheChicGeek says, "This is some of the best tailoring I've seen lately from a label unknown to me, until recently. It's great to see this kind of quality coming from outside of London. It is expensive, but, you are getting value for money when looking at the fabrics and manufacturing used. You're also pretty safe in the knowledge that nobody else will be wearing it, plus you'll standout for the right reasons. Slow and steady always wins the race!"