Moncler has unveiled its first-ever fragrances, Moncler Pour Homme and Moncler Pour Femme. The new fragrances are the latest in a long line of inspirational creations by the brand and a natural extension of a 360° lifestyle brand celebrated around the world for its heritage of mountain excellence.
Left - Moncler Pour Homme - 150ml - £170 exclusive to Selfridges
The fragrance duo shares a unique 'Mountain Woods' accord exclusive to Moncler. This warm, sophisticated woody element is a common DNA that evokes the pioneering spirit of the brand. Beyond this accord, each fragrance unveils an intrinsic blend of prestigious natural materials and unique accords formulated in the hands of perfumers Nisrine Grillié, Quentin Bisch, Antoine Maisondieu and Christophe Raynaud at Givaudan.
“The Mountain Woods accord is the common thread between the women’s and men’s fragrance. For its woody, outdoors feeling, we used cedarwood. For the stylish sophistication of the house, we worked with a saturation of amber. Together with Antoine Maisondieu, we added sandalwood for its comforting, creamy warmth.” says Nisrine Grillié.
Moncler Pour Homme is a woody aromatic fragrance created by perfumers Antoine Maisondieu and Christophe Raynaud. Said to capture the vibrant natural beauty of an alpine forest, the fragrance contains an unprecedented saturation of woody notes. Starting with the exclusive Alpine Green accord for Moncler that, combined with the energising freshness of clary sage, lifts the fragrance through a leafy expanse of mountain pines.
“Moncler Pour Homme is a deep-dive of woody notes – much more than any classic men’s fragrance. The Mountain Woods accord present in both fragrances is accentuated a lot more in Moncler Pour Homme. For Christophe Raynaud and I, the idea was to play that against the fresh, green element of the Alpine Green accord with aromatic touches of pine resin, sage and cypress. To that effect, Monler Pour Homme is very modern in the way that it has a long dry down – it doesn’t really follow the formal construction of a traditional perfume.” says Antoine Maisondieu.
The fragrance is showcased in a unique ‘borraccia’ flask-shaped bottle encircled with a ribbed silver case and cap – a utilitarian echo to Moncler’s mountaineering origins and the iconic quilted construction of a Moncler jacket. The Moncler Pour Homme bottle features a silver-dipped effect and an LED screen adorns the bottle of the rechargeable 150ml edition with an illuminated message panel customisable via a Bluetooth-powered smartphone app. This playful innovation allows you to write a personal note that appears in scrolling red letters across the bottle’s mirrored façade when activated by the Moncler logo-shaped push button in contrasting black.
TheChicGeek says, "The first Moncler fragrance was always going to be a fresh wood, naturally, conjuring up those snow covered pined peaks and crisp mountain air. The brand has grown to become one of the biggest and more desirable of the designer down coat brands, particularly its multitude of small designer collections under its Genius header. The LED bottle idea sounds fantastically fun, love the personalisation element, and also relates to Moncler's technical expertise."
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A new indie perfume brand from London, founded and created by Nick Steward, Gallivant works in collaboration with perfumers in Venice and Paris. The collection of eight hand-crafted fragrances, named after some of the world’s most vibrant cities, are designed to be travel-friendly with 30ml sized bottles, perfect for slipping into your holdall.
Nick Steward has two decades of hands-on experience in perfume making and was product and creative director of the pioneering niche house L’Artisan Parfumeur.
Handmade in the UK, unisex, vegan and cruelty-free. Gallivant is an ethical and sustainable independent artisan business.
TheChicGeek says, “The Phileas Fogg of perfume, Nick Seward, has produced a travelogue of scent. From Tel Aviv to Brooklyn, each fragrance is a modern take on a place memory.
I was hoping ‘London’ was going to smell like the inside of a red telephone box. Ewww!
If I had to pick a favourite, I would say ‘Tokyo’. Created with Nicolas Bonneville, it is a zingy, spicy, wood. A citrusy head of bergamot and yuzu with black pepper and cardamom, is electrified with a dash of wasabi. A woody heart of hinoki, cedarwood, and incense with orris root, rose and nutmeg mixes with a base of amber, sandalwood, patchouli and vetiver.
Tokyo has a slightly treacly cola top with an aquatic freshness. The warmed incense is there, but it’s deep and kept light with the fruit.”
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Disclosure - A sample was gifted by Gallivant for review
A French term for a place you'd grow elm trees, now sadly long gone due to Dutch elm disease, 'Ormaie' is a mother and son - Marie-Lise Jonak and Baptiste Bouygues - team producing completely natural and vegan fragrances. Seven in total, all featuring striking and sculptural wooden stoppers, they are produced and formulated alongside renowned raw natural ingredient specialists, Robertet. The glass bottle is by Saverglass, the only French glassmaker to recycle their own glass magma.
Fragrances include '28°', said to be Bouygues' perfect temperature, 'Yvonne' named after the grandmother and 'Le Passant' meaning the passing man, and deemed the most masculine fragrance.
TheChicGeek says, "Of the seven, I liked 'Les Brumes' (The Mists) the most. It is a citrus inspired by morning mist on the fruit trees. Ingredients include lemon, mandarin, bergamot, ginger and sandalwood."
Left - Ormaie - 100ml - £180 Exclusive to Harvey Nichols
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Following on from the hit Aventus fragrance, Aventus Cologne is said to be a fruity yet aromatic burst of ginger, mandarin and pink peppercorn, complemented by a heart of patchouli, sandalwood and vetiver. A leathery balsamic base of styrax, birch, musk and tonka bean.
TheChicGeek says, “Creed has become something of a cult, and looking at the prices, £155 for 50ml, they are certainly premium, even though they’ve managed to ingratiate themselves into the mainstream - John Lewis window anybody?
Colognes are usually lighter and easier to wear, and benefit from frequent reapplications. This is safe. No note really sticks its head above its tasteful parapet. Even the top, which usually dominates a cologne, doesn’t have much distinction and quickly disappears into a that soft and dry twiggy dry-down of vetiver. There’s nothing wrong with this, but if you’re investing, like here, I’d advise to demand more.”
Disclosure - A sample was provided by Creed
TheChicGeek says, “The last dunhill fragrance, 'Icon', back in 2015, set the standard for the modern range of dunhill men’s fragrances. I was a fan - see more here and four incarnations later, it’s time for something new.
‘Century’ is their latest offering. The perfumer is Carlos Benaim and features refreshing top notes of bergamot, grapefruit and mandarin. A base of sandalwood, warming olibanum - frankincense - and fragrant neroli sits on sandalwood, musk and cypriol
As somebody at the press launch said, this smells like a posh body wash. The type that stays on your skin in a soft, soapy and background kind of way. That's not to be derogatory and there are plenty of people who don't want shouty fragrances. This is very subtle and warm, with the mixture of neroli and sandalwood, and, pleasingly, is an easy wearer in a quality and sophisticated way. It's just not something you'll be able to pick out distinctively in a line-up, but it's still good at what it does.
The bottle is one of the best I’ve seen for a while. It’s very Verner Panton - the designer was a major influence for SS19 - see SS19 Milan/Paris Trends Scrapbook here - and looks like a paperweight from the 1960s. It’s disappointing the magnetic, curved top doesn’t fit perfectly into the recesses on the side. This probably says more about me being on the spectrum than anything else!
This is an accomplished fragrance from dunhill and makes their collection of fragrances some of the best packaged in the mainstream men’s market."
Left - dunhill London - Century - 75ml EDP - £59
Available now exclusively to Harrods. Launches nationwide from the 6th August 2018
Grown exclusively for the Zegna family, Zegna bergamot and petitgrain bigarade capture the sundrenched effervescence of the Italian seaside with a refreshing zest of lemon in Zegna’s latest men’s fragrance. Freesia and dewy leaves impart a soft fluidity to the citrus.
A classic aromatic heart of lavendin, cypress and rosemary adds cool woodiness to the invigorating spice of neroli. Violet leaves and watermelon further facet the fragrance with a green crunch and refreshing splash. The confident ease of the scent emanates from earthy woods, cypriol heart and tree moss, while musk and sandalwood offer golden warmth to ocean-sprayed seaweed for a sensation of the glistening and sun-kissed.
TheChicGeek says, “This needs to be a cologne or used like one - which means you continually reapply - as it’s all about the top. Neroli - orange blossom - is one of my favourite ingredients and this couldn’t come at a better time of year when our nostrils are open and this intoxicating blossom chimes with the season.
The bergamot and neroli go together like chicken and egg, while the other ingredients take a supporting role. This doesn’t last long, but, then it’s all about that initial hit."
Left - Ermenegildo Zegna - Acqua Di Neroli - 100ml - £82 Exclusively at John Lewis from 1st June 2018
TheChicGeek says, “You’ll be pleased to know this doesn’t smell like the top deck of a double decker bus. If somebody sprayed this and you had to close your eyes, you’d never guess this was called ‘Cannabis’.
Inspired by Andrew Goetz’s time in Amsterdam, the fragrance contains bergamot, black pepper and magnolia with a base of cedarwood, patchouli and sandalwood.
It’s fresh, fragrant and warm. There isn’t any smoke or that pungent odour associated with cannabis and is definitely an easy-wearer. This would make a good, everyday fragrance and I think the 420 fans will be disappointed if they smell this. Maybe they should have called it 'Amsterdam'?"
Left - Malin + Goetz Cannabis EDP 100ml - £125
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While the image of Davidoff Cool Water has always been a sparkling, aqua blue wave somewhere exotic like Hawaii or Malibu, you don’t have to go that far to experience the addictive draw of the sea.
Davidoff kindly took me to Cornwall to experience the latest edition to the Cool Water franchise - Wave. TheChicGeek and water don’t usually mix, but there’s something about Cornwall that when the sun comes out, it’s magical.
Famous for its ‘oceanic’ aquatic scent, Davidoff asked renowned perfumers, Francis Kurkdjian, Antoine Lie, and Jean Jacques to collaborate to create Wave. It begins with a bracing surge of the energising, signature marine splash accord and grapefruit notes that mingle with stimulating Sichuan pepper. The middle features birch leaf and juniper, on a masculine base of patchouli and sandalwood.
TheChicGeek says, “This is an easy wearer and that’s why the original Cool Water has remained so popular. A nice update, segue way, call it what you will, I particularly like the botanicals in it. The original ‘marine splash’ is there and while the rest balances around it, it remains a classic aqua cologne. It has a greenish feeling to it that continues the fresh theme without making it feel immature or unsophisticated. Cool Water Wave brings back the memories of the beach, so I'm diving in!”
Below - Surfer Geek
Part of Jo Malone’s Cologne Intense range, Orris & Sandalwood, centres around orris, the name for the dried root of the iris. One of the most expensive ingredients in perfumery it is grown in Tuscany and takes many years to dry out.
Here it is combined her with top notes of violet, and a base of sandalwood.
TheChicGeek says, “This is the dirty side of orris. The initial burst of fragrant violet doesn’t stop this from quickly drying down to an earthy, woody and almost animalic base. This would appeal to those fans of oud or incense type fragrances. It has a strong beginning which does lighten with time”.
Left - Jo Malone - Cologne Intense - 100ml - £105
The latest in the line-up of Givenchy’s Gentlemen Only fragrances, Casual Chic remains true to the original accords of Gentlemen Only - sandalwood, cedar wood, birch leaf, but with the addition of three spices – cardamom, ginger and juniper.
TheChicGeek says “The modern man likes a trilogy, and 'Casual Chic' finishes this off nicely for Givenchy’s Gentleman Only series. This is a modern grown-up fragrance, which means it’s masculine, but easy.
I was a fan of the original Gentlemen Only, of course, I’m going to like ginger! I’m TheChicGeek afterall, but it gives it a green, fresh spiciness which is perfect as we enter the warmer months.”
Left - Givenchy - Gentlemen Only Casual Chic - 50ml - £45.50