Displaying items by tag: Mr Porter

Wednesday, 26 January 2022 10:02

Menswear Trend Contemporary Blue Boy

Blue Boy Gainsborough fashion ASOS DESIGN Menswear blue silk satin SS22Do you know what there isn’t enough of in men’s fashion? Blue satin!

Returning after 100 years, Thomas Gainsborough’s 1770  ‘The Blue Boy’ takes pride of place at London's National Gallery. This is the first time the painting has been loaned by The Huntington in California. It is a once-in-a-century opportunity to see this iconic work in the UK. 

Taking our inspiration from this fine young man, look for light silk satin pieces in sky blue shades to take you from day to night in the warmer summer months.

National Gallery - Until 15 May 2022

Blue Boy Gainsborough fashion Tom Ford MR PORTER Menswear blue silk satin SS22Left - ASOS DESIGN - Regular Satin Shirt with Shawl Neck in Blue - £28.00

Below - TOM FORD - Velvet-Trimmed Stretch-Silk Satin Pyjama Trousers - £580 from MR PORTER

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Blue Boy Gainsborough fashion ASOS DESIGN Menswear blue silk satin SS22

 

Published in Men

balenciaga gucci hackNo creative worth their salt will ever admit to being out of ideas. Even no idea is an idea these days. Collabs. have become the go-to to fill the gaps in fashion’s creativity and its continual appetite for product over the past decade. Two empty heads are always better than one?

Fashion is a cycle and like the Ouroboros, an ancient symbol depicting a serpent or dragon eating its own tail, it goes around and around. But, today, that coil has become so tight it has almost devoured itself. In a ‘pop will eat itself’ moment, former rivals are now collaborating and even swapping creative roles, while retailers, desperate for new ideas are trying to incubate new designers, labels and ideas to fill the ideas vacuum. 

Is fashion officially out of ideas?

The biggest ‘hacking’ of the season, (not a collab. anymore - FYI), was the tie up between Balenciaga and Gucci. Both Kering brands, and in Gucci’s centenary year, Gucci’s ‘Aria’ collection, meaning air in Italian, featured no-doubt sell out product the resellers will only dream about. 

Left - Balenciaga & Gucci's 'Hack' in retail form

Tagged as Balenciagucci or (Gucciaga), the internet blew up in April when Alessandro Michele added Balenciaga’s silhouettes and branding across Gucci product. 

Two of the biggest and most desirable names in luxury fashion merging like this is unprecedented. A classic Jackie bag was emblazoned with the diagonal Balenciaga font, while Balenciaga’s Triple S was reimagined with the recognisable Gucci Flora print.

If this wasn’t enough rehashing of ideas, the collection also mined the famous Tom Ford era of the mid to late 90’s, reproducing some of his vintage looks from the Gucci archive. Balenciaga’s creative director, Demna Gvasalia said on Instagram Stories after the Gucci show with regards to the homage to Tom Ford’s Gucci. “It really defined the decade in fashion, I think. But I love how today everything mixes in together — ’70s, ’90s, ’00s, etc. Anything is really possible and fashion is such a melting pot of the past, present, and future. That’s what makes it so special and intriguing I guess.” 

This product will be in great demand - it isn’t currently available on the main Gucci website - and is therefore guaranteed that it will be swapping hands for a premium when it enters the market. While fun, it does a reek of an ideas cul-de-sac.

Mario Abad, Fashion Editor at Paper Magazine wrote on Twitter (Nov 8th) “Something about Balenciaga tagging their stores with “Gucci” to mark the collab’s launch is making me lose it.”

fendi fendace versace swapThe biggest ‘swap’ of the SS22 season, (not a collab. anymore - FYI), was Fendi by Versace, Versace by Fendi. Donatella Versace and Fendi’s Kim Jones swapped roles and designed collections for each other’s brands. Versace and Fendi, Capri Holdings and LVMH brands, respectively, unveiled “two iconic collections that celebrate their friendship and the cultural impact of Versace and Fendi.” 

Right - Versace's Medusa looks very natural with Fendi's Greek key

Labelled ‘Fendace’, the collection saw Fendi directors Kim Jones and Silvia Venturini Fendi create 25 Versace looks while Donatella Versace reciprocated with 25 Fendi ensembles. Items included Fendi Baguette bags with Medusa heads and Versace’s signature safety pins scattered across Fendi looks all set to hit stores next spring.

fendace kim jones donatella versaceConsidering Kim Jones only joined Fendi as artistic director of women's collections in September 2020, we’ve yet to clearly see what he can do with the brand. He is also men’s creative director at the giant, LVMH owned, Dior. Fashion conglomerates are finding it increasingly hard to attract big names designers to their houses. Note Daniel Lee just exciting Bottega Veneta.

Left - Kim Jones & Donatella Versace at the launch of 'Fendace'

On the retailer front, MRPORTER.COM announced a competition to find the next menswear design stars to celebrate its 10th anniversary in April 2021. Called MR PORTER FUTURES, the three lucky candidates could not already own a registered or trademarked business with an annual turnover of over €10,000 and was open to anybody regardless of experience of background.

Sam Kershaw, Mr Porter buying director, “We have always been committed to championing a diverse mix of new and emerging designers throughout Mr Porter's decade in business, but if this year has taught us anything, it is that we have the responsibility to use our global platform to give equal opportunities to all new aspiring menswear voices, no matter their experience or background”

Announcing the winners in September 2021, MRPORTER said. “Fashion, after all, can be a tough place to succeed, and, if we’re being honest, isn’t quite as diverse as it could be. For all that it speaks to a global audience, the industry that drives it is largely centralised in just a handful of cities – historically New York, London, Milan and Paris – while talent is disproportionately drawn from a small number of high-profile schools.”

The winners began a year-long design programme to turn their ideas into reality. At the end of the year, they will debut their very own menswear collections exclusively on MR PORTER.

Exclusivity is the way forward for multi-brand luxury sites all battling for the same customers. This also offers MR PORTER the potential of a fresh wave of ideas and a newness that isn’t just another collaboration. It also looks as though it is supporting the fashion industry and diversity.

Tiffany SupremeAnother brand desperate for cool is Tiffany & Co. A much-rumoured high profile collaboration between Supreme and Tiffany & Co. is set to drop this week.

 Right - Would you return this to Tiffany? Tiffany & Co.s collab with Supreme

The VF and LVMH owned businesses’ collection called ‘Return To Tiffany’ is inspired by pieces originally launched in the 1960s and comprised of pendants, necklaces, bracelets, earrings, rings, and keyrings. Tiffany’s new CEO, Alexandre Arnault, was also the head of Rimowa when they did a collaboration with Supreme.

Fashion consumers have reached collaboration fatigue and this is why the big brands are spinning these as ‘hacks’ or ‘swaps’. It is also why they are upping the ante by partnering with brands of equal stature. Collaborations needed to get bigger to have any impact. Collaborations before were always a David and Goliath type relationship of big brand supporting little. There was no threat there and everybody knew who was the bigger and more important of the two. Where will the brands go from here?

These do look like a desperate grappling for new ideas and attention. Brands not coming up with fresh ideas and therefore not impressing the retailers is making them look elsewhere to nurture a new crop of ideas and designers, especially outside of the main fashion capitals. Considering fashion had something of a pandemic break, for the last 18 months, the latest round of shows in September didn’t feel like a group of creatives burgeoning with fresh ideas. It felt like an industry fully burnt out and these partnerships do nothing to argue against that.

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Published in Comment
Tuesday, 19 October 2021 15:45

Trend - Menswear Bits With Zips

Timothée Chalamet red carpet Dune London Alexander McQueen zips black metallicTheChicGeek says, "Category is ‘metallic zips’ after skinny clotheshorse, Timothée Chalamet, (or Chalametallic as I've renamed him for this!) hit the red carpet for the ‘Dune’ London premiere in an Alexander McQueen Spring 2022 suit. 

"Alexander McQueen's menswear is usually overly dressy, but this is relaxed, trying, but not too hard, and cool. I just wonder if all the zips actually work. The shoulders seem to in the lookbook image below. Expect this to be a big trend, moving forward in 2022, for the fast fashion menswear brands."

Timothée Chalamet red carpet Dune London Alexander McQueen zips black metallic

Timothée Chalamet red carpet Dune London Alexander McQueen zips black metallicLeft - Alexander McQueen Spring/Summer 2022

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Zip it.

Left - Alexander McQueen - Slim-Fit Logo Webbing-Trimmed Crepe Track Jacket - £890 from MRPORTER.COM

Below - Tom Ford - Buckley Briefcase - £2590

Timothée Chalamet red carpet Dune London Alexander McQueen zips black metallic tom ford buckley bag

Timothée Chalamet red carpet Dune London Alexander McQueen zips black metallic Burberry zip jacket

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Left - Burberry - Zip Panel Wool Silk Tailored Jacket - £1490

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Published in Men
Monday, 08 March 2021 16:01

MR PORTER SS21 Barena Exclusive

barena mr porter exclusive menswear to buy whichMr. P. launches sixteen exclusive products from Barena. Mr Sandro Zara inspired by the rich style heritage of his home city of Venice, produces unique, elegant collections brimming with character. All production takes place in Italy with acute attention to detail.

The sixteen exclusive pieces have been specifically designed for MR PORTER. Highlights include a unstructured cotton and linen-blend jersey blazer, a shawl-collar linen-jersey T-shirt and a pair of linen and cotton-blend shorts.

Prices range from £150 - £465

TheChicGeek says, “Forget designer labels for value for money. The quality is pretty rubbish from most ‘lusury’ brands right now. If you want great fabrics made with traditional Italian love with a contemporary update, then look no further than Barena. I’ve bought lots of things from them and they’re all great.”

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Published in News
Monday, 08 February 2021 10:05

MR PORTER Launches DRKSHDW by Rick Owens.

DRKSHDW by Rick Owens launches on MR PORTERMR PORTER is pleased to launch DRKSHDW by Rick Owens. DRKSHDW by Rick Owens originated as a denim capsule in 2005 and has since evolved into a full extension of the main label. Designed by the same team and made in the same Italian factory, the line takes a more minimalist approach, while still retaining that dark, avant-garde aesthetic.

Left - Jason Fleece-Back Cotton-Jersey Zip-Up Hoodie - £455

Prices ranges from £190 - £845

www.mrporter.com

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Published in News
Monday, 01 February 2021 12:59

Get The Look The Dig

the dig film basil brown ralph fiennes netflix brown floppy hatIf Christopher Bailey made a film it would be The Dig. The story of Basil Brown and his discovery of the ancient Anglo Saxon treasure of Sutton Hoo, it is a master class in washed out 1930s style. That end of summer, sliding into autumn feeling of swaying grasses and bleached out countryside.

The style takeaways are numerous from Robert Pretty’s rocket knit to Basil’s floppy gardening hat to Peggy Preston’s Roman coin necklace. Dig in!

Left - Ralph Fiennes as Basil Brown in The Dig on Netflixthe dig film basil brown gucci brown floppy hat

the dig film robert pretty rocket jumper

 

 

 

 

Left- Gucci - Ribbon-trimmed Fedora - £380 from Matchesfashion.com

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Left - Robert Pretty in his intarsia rocket jumper

Below - Maison Kitsuné - 3D Rockey iPhone Case - £25 from The End

menswear product to buy now stefan cooke embroidered slashed jumper

 

 

 

the dig film robert pretty rocket jumper

 

 

 

 

 

Left - Stella McCartney Kids - Rocket Ship Intarsia Jumper - £56 from Farfetch

the dig film asprey silver rocket cocktail shaker mr porter

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Left -  Asprey - Rocket Sterling Silver and Enamel Cocktail Shaker - £9250 from MRPORTER.COM

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

the dig film robert pretty rocket jumperLeft - Gucci X Disney - Rocket Charm Single Earring - £250 from Farfetch

the dig film Burberry 2009 ad campaignLeft - Burberry ad. campaign circa 2009

Left - Jamieson’s of Shetland - Fair Isle Tank Top - £127the dig film fair isle jumper

the dig film roman coin gold Monica Vinader necklaceLeft - Monica Vinader - Siren Large Coin Gemstone Pendant Charm - £95 

 

 

 

 

 the dig film basil brown barbour bag

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 Left - Barbour - Wax Leather Tarras Bag - £129

 

Buy TheChicGeek's latest book FashionWankers - HERE

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the dig film barbour tarras bag

Published in Men
Thursday, 26 March 2020 14:03

ChicGeek Comment COVID 19 The In-Town Warehouse

fashion covid 19 net a porter closed in store warehouseBetween the ‘loungewear’ emails and the ‘we-give-a-shit-please-buy-something’ emails, some brands have been hoping to offset some of the losses of physical retail with online. Online has the potential to be many brands’ life support machines; keeping some form of cash flow ticking over and the lights on.

Left - Net-a-Porter has closed its American website & warehouse

Dixons Carphone has said sales surged by more than 70% as Britons rushed to buy laptops, games consoles and freezers to cope with the coronavirus outbreak. Online sales in the UK and Ireland surged 72% in the three weeks to 21 March.

“There will be some recovery through online operations but overall the loss of sales will adversely impact our full-year profitability and cash position,” it said. The group said as a result it would still miss out on about £400m of sales between now and the end of its financial year in April.

Fashion has a lot less ‘need’ and as such will be harder hit. Fashion brands have huge amounts of stock sitting in stores, not going anywhere anytime soon. These shops have now become in-town warehouses, but they still need manning and this has become a problem for some brands. Many consumers seem to think that online and offline is separated, robotically picked and magically appears on their doorstep. 

The family owned department store chain, Fenwicks said in a statement: "Our people, both employees and customers alike, are at the heart of our business... Therefore, we have taken the decision to temporarily close our website as well as our stores, to ensure the safety of our teams and customers.” Fenwicks only went online in 2017 and pick the items from in-store stock.

Schuh, the footwear retailer, too has closed its website. Chief executive Colin Temple said: “At this point in time, the UK government guidelines include that online retail should ‘still open’ and ‘is encouraged’ along with advice that if staff cannot reasonably work from home, they should continue to go into work.

“However, with the Schuh head office and DC operations based in Scotland and Scottish Government advice conflicting with UK government advice, Schuh management have made the decision to close their website, in addition to their stores that already closed from the evening of Sunday 22 March.”

He added: “A number of DC staff continue to indicate that they want to work within the warehouse to support the Schuh online business, along with other departmental employees offering their support also. However, Schuh management have confirmed that the website and stores will remain closed until there is updated UK and Scottish government advice.”

No doubt demand has fallen overall with many people tightening their expenditure and only buying what they need. But, what about the exclusively online retailers? Most surprising is Net-a-Porter/Mr Porter has closed its American business. Customers visiting the US site are now met with a message that reads: “In line with local government guidelines, and for the health and safety of our community, we have temporarily closed our warehouse. We hope you are all staying safe and look forward to welcoming you back soon.”

This is a nightmare for fashion brands selling products with a shelf life. The discounts have already started, and they’re big, Liberty of London went straight in with 50% off. Some retailers are doing okay at online, but even the best figures won’t replace physical retail, representing a 20/80 split between online and offline. To shift all this stock they will need to discount heavy, eating into profit margins, and consumers, used to a never-ending supply of ‘Just In’ will have to adjust to a new  shopping landscape with less choice.

Update - Next, River Island & Moss Bros have announced their websites will close.

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Published in Fashion

menswear product of the week casablanca printed jeanWhy should the shirt have all the fun? This is the question the jean is asking this season. A new label on the radar is Casablanca. Designed in Paris and made in Casablanca, it’s a bright and creative contemporary brand bestowed with the rich dual heritage of Casablanca’s French-Moroccan founder, Charaf Tajer. (He was previously associated co-founder of Parisian label Pigalle and is also a collaborator of Mr Virgil Abloh).

His tongue-in-cheek and playful aesthetic, and not so silly prices, makes this a brand to have fun with. This print has something of the sunshine Hockney/Luke Edward Hall vibes about and I love it. Wear these with everything!

Left & Below - Casablanca - Chambre Slim-Fit Printed Denim Jeans - £365 from MRPORTER

Not to be confused with the shoe brand, Casablanca 1942 - Read more here

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menswear product of the week casablanca printed jean

Published in Fashion
Wednesday, 12 February 2020 11:10

Menswear Product Of The Week Genius Parka

menswear product of the week moncler genius craig green down jacketMoncler Genius is, well, genius. Eight small designer collaborations providing different high fashion, cold weather options for even the fussiest of fashion wanker. What's not to like?

Collection number 5 is by British designer Craig Green who has put his quilted spin on Moncler's quilting. This feels modern, clean and fresh in a market tired of the typical arctic type parkas with fur hoods. I know the daffodils are already out and we think we’ve escaped with a mild winter, so if you don’t wear this this year, then you can always park it and bring it out at the first sign of cold weather at the end of the year.

Left & Below - Moncler Genius - 5 Moncler Craig Green Coolidge Colour-Block Quilted Shell Hooded Down Jacket - £1,260 from MRPORTER

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menswear product of the week moncler genius craig green down jacket

Published in Fashion
Thursday, 20 September 2018 15:21

ChicGeek Comment Is Farfetch a Worthy Investment?

Farfetch IPO should you invest?As luxury online marketplace, Farfetch, debuts on the New York Stock Exchange, I ask, is it a worthy investment?

This isn’t particularly scientific, but, recently, I was looking for a particular AW18 Dries Van Noten jacket I’d seen, in store, in Selfridges. It wasn’t on their website, so I tried Mr Porter. Nothing. So, then I thought I’d search FarFetch. With over 600 boutiques said to be affiliated to their network, and 375 luxury brands, you’d expect a decent selection to come up. Nothing again. 

Left - Is Farfetch high on the list of your luxury searches?

Dries Van Noten isn’t the most ubiquitous of fashion brands, but without a large network of own brand shops, it is usually sold wholesale to designer boutiques and is found in the majority of luxury department stores. It’s big enough. It felt strange nothing was on Farfetch. This isn’t the first time this has happened and the reason why it wasn’t my first place to search.

Farfetch just had its valuation lifted and is set to be valued at between $4.9bn and $5.5bn in its initial public offering in response to investor interest in technology stocks. The shares have a price range of $17 to $19, according to an updated regulatory filing published this week. The original range was $15 to $17. 

Joseph Wong, an investor in luxury fashion stocks such as Burberry, ASOS, Bvlgari and Mulberry, says “Farfetch assimilates some of the best independent boutiques into a common platform. What’s valuable is the technology and the list of stores they represent. For that diehard enthusiast, he/she can do a quick search for that elusive Off-White piece or vintage Chanel piece, with a click to buy option.”

The majority of IPOs are often overpriced. They are filled with hot air to give healthy profits to the founders and early investors. Not to mention the fees to the money men to maximise the price and get the listing on its way. Farfetch, established in 2007, is being marketed as more of a tech company, where the prices are higher, rather than a retail marketplace model which takes a percentage from each transaction sold through its website.

The most recent Farfetch results show revenues of $267.5m in the six months to June 30, 2018, and losses before tax of $68.4m. Farfetch had total revenues of $910 million last year.

To put this in the context of the market, Yoox Net-a-Porter (YNAP), which was acquired by luxury conglomerate Richemont recently, valuing the business at €5.3 billion, and matchesfashion.com was sold to private equity firm Apax for over $1 billion last September. In the 12 months ending Dec. 31, YNAP saw year-end preliminary sales reach 2.1 billion euros ($2.5 billion). Matchesfashion.com recorded group revenue of £293 million ($393 million) to 31st Jan 2018.

“From our research of the luxury fashion market, FarFetch led in terms of traffic capture between 2015 and 2017, and maintains a good reputation. It has a sound business model, good commercials and no flagged operational or customer issues.” says Fleur Hicks, Managing Director of onefourzero, a data analytics and digital research agency based in London.

Farfetch IPO should you invest?

“It is an ambitious listing price, but in the context of the growing luxury fashion market, this could see returns within the next months and years, depending on how ambitious your investment strategy.” she says.

The global fashion industry is, according to a 2017 McKinsey report, valued at $2.4 trillion. If it were ranked, alongside individual countries’ GDP, it would represent the world’s second largest economy. From 2014 to 2018, the luxury fashion industry was expected to grow from 3% to 17% of the total fashion market. Annual online sales growth was expected to be 17% in the US, 18% in the UK, 12% in Germany and a whopping 70% in China, according to the report.

“It’s a good business model within a growing marketplace.” says Hicks. “The return risks of minimised stock and holding outlays look to outweigh the risks associated with reliance upon 3rd party operations, such as delivery. It averages a 30% mark up and thus a 50-odd% margin on operations. Incredible for the fashion industry. Also, the growth rate - 60% this year - is impressive.” she says.

Right - Is the value in Farfetch in its tech?

“Of the competitor set we analysed, Farfetch represented 3.8% of the captured online traffic market, representing the market lead. This competitor set only represented 17% of the potential traffic available (based on digital demand and traffic) and therefore the headroom for brand and revenue growth is huge.” says Hicks.

Farfetch’s future growth is potentially going to come from its ‘White Label’ service supporting brands such as Manolo Blahnik, Christopher Kane, DKNY and Thom Browne in their e-commerce offerings. 

Farfetch have announced many strategic partnerships recently to further enhance the value of the company. These include Chanel, Chalhoub Group, one of the biggest distributors of fashion and luxury goods in the Middle East and the modesty luxury retailer, The Modist. They have also partnered with brands such as Harvey Nichols and Burberry. This is spreading their risk and also leveraging their technical expertise. It’s what Ocado has done in food.

Wong says, “You also need to consider what they will be using the cash raised from the flotation for. When Prada was listed, it was to relieve the billion Euro debt, open more stores and provide an exit plan for the founders.”

Farfetch are investing heavily in technology and this does explain some of the losses. They hope they will be able to charge other brands handsomely for this and the ever important 'big data'. 

Are there any potential waves on the horizon? “Digital commercial disruptors are most likely to threaten large behemoths like Farfetch.” says Hicks. “This would most likely come from Amazon or AliExpress fashion lines and/or new ways to purchase fashion in a more interactive way.  It’s unlikely that this will be a quick transition, so if FarFetch remain on pulse with technological change and consumer movements then they should be agile enough to move with the technical and operational trends as well as fashion trends.” she says.

Wong says, “Businesses are keen to connect directly to consumers, and cut the middlemen: think Kylie Cosmetics, Pat McGrath. This is happening to media industry too: Netflix originals instead of via Sky or Virgin Media. Not sure if Farfetch have addressed such concerns before.”

“There is also the downside for retailers: I once noted a £1500 price difference on a stunning new season McQueen coat: the result of a weak sterling and import taxes levied by a store from the Far East.” he says.

According to Bain & Company, the luxury goods market reached a record high of €262 billion in 2017. Online sales jumped by 24%, reaching an overall market share of 9%. Bain & Company predicts the market will be worth $446 billion market by 2025. Online’s share is expected to be its fastest-growing segment, rising from about 9% to 25% by 2025.

Farfetch IPO should you invest?I think you need to look at Farfetch in the context of being a major player in a fast growing market. The valuation seems to be based upon its potential and the appetite for this type of technology stock. 

I don’t think the name ‘Farfetch’ is particularly well known with general consumers. They need to work on the parent brand and getting its name into the luxury consumer’s head for that initial search. They also need to feel like the Amazon of luxury: all the choice on one site, which takes me back to my disappointing Dries Van Noten search. They could do better with packaging and more Instagrammable things to raise awareness of the consumer side of the brand. 

There also have a lot of variables. They have different stores buying different things in different currencies and it loses something of that personal touch that other retailers seem to nurture and one of the reasons you go to a retailer. 

Left - The online market is growing massively and is set to grow from 9% to 25% of the luxury market

As for selling the tech. to other brands, I think this is where the long-term value is, but they need to be careful not to overstretch themselves and have too many fingers in too many pies. It’s better to do fewer things well. It feels like they are still working out the direction they are going in. They could easily focus on either sides of this business and quietly reduce the other. They need to grow revenues while keeping the costs constant or reduced. They just don't want to lose the momentum.

The price seems, initially, far fetched, (soz), but the long term prospects for luxury online is looking good.  

Published in Fashion
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