Displaying items by tag: Menswear

Wednesday, 23 March 2022 14:18

Get The Look The Power Of The Dog

menswear get the look Power of the dog cowboy western peter gordon kodi smit mcphee

Set on a ranch in Montana in the 1920s, The Power of the Dog is a new Western film by director Jane Campion following two vastly differently brothers: Phil Burbank (Benedict Cumberbatch) and George Burbank (Jesse Plemons).

menswear get the look Power of the dog cowboy western peter gordon kodi smit mcpheePhil develops an unlikely friendship with his brother’s stepson, Peter Gordon (Kodi Smit-McPhee). While the film has East of Eden vibes, it's no Brokeback Mountain and Cumberbatch isn't convincing as a menacing and bullying character. The menswear get the look Power of the dog cowboy western peter gordon kodi smit mcpheemountainous backdrop of Montana is stunning though.

Right - Bollman Hats - 100% Wool Felt Cattleman Cowboy Hat (Large, Grey Silverbelly)- £86

Stylistically, it's Smit-McPhee who steals the film in a puritan type of western wear. His natural cotton shirt and raw denim on his willowy frame makes a memorable look. It has something of Raf Simons' Americana when he did his short lived label for Calvin Klein.

This simple look is easily replicated. Look for raw selvedge denim, an off-white/cream/natural shirt and light felt cowboy hat. Just add any dramatic landscape.

menswear get the look Power of the dog cowboy western peter gordon kodi smit mcpheeRight - Lee - 101 Rider In Dry - £160

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menswear get the look Power of the dog cowboy western peter gordon kodi smit mcphee

 

Published in Men

menswear Victoria & Albert Museum review V&A Fashioning Masculinities The Art of MenswearHoping to take the toxicity out of masculinity and give a fresh lens onto the world of menswear is the Victoria & Albert Museum’s latest show, Fashioning Masculinities: The Art of Menswear.

Unbelievably, it is the first major V&A exhibition to celebrate ‘the power, artistry and diversity of masculine attire and appearance'. Presenting around 100 looks and 100 artworks, displayed thematically across three galleries, it features the extravagance of the European courts, to the subtle elegance of bespoke tailoring, to the vitality of today’s international fashion scene, all fashioned and refashioned over the centuries. Contemporary looks by established designers and rising stars sit alongside historical treasures from the V&A’s collections and landmark loans: classical sculptures, Renaissance paintings, iconic photographs, and powerful film and performance.

Left - 'Undressed' room welcomes you to the exhibition

Gender is like night and day or light and dark, it changes all the time. It is pretty much established that men can wear pink nowadays. Even Niccolò Machiavelli recorded a quip by Cosimo the Elder “in his Istorie back in 1526 that 'two yards of pink cloth can make a gentleman’”.

This is such a big subject that it is hard to focus. What are you supposed to take away?

With an exhibition like Dior, for example, the subject line is already established and the curators simply have to flesh it out and select the best examples. This is a subject that could go in any direction.

There is plenty of decoration here, it could do with focusing on a few key characters or historical influencers. There is a portrait and suit of Edward VIII's, and, Cecil Beaton’s fancy dress bunny outfit, that could easily have an exhibition on their own. The exhibition could have been called ‘Influencers in Menswear’ or ‘Menswear in Art’ and had more detail. It’s usually the people that make clothes more interesting.

Masculine energy, good or bad, is missing. The first room ‘Undressed’ feels confused and flat and doesn’t really inject anything sexual into the proceedings. There is no desire here and little objectification. It the difference between male beauty and masculinity. One is much easier to visualise than the other.

Where the exhibition did get stronger was with the portraiture. Historical portraits mixed with doublets, gloves and the most fantastic Grinling Gibbons carved cravat once owned by Horace Walpole. The rest of the exhibition was a kind of greatest hits, but with a few B-sides and modern remixes thrown in.

Sponsored by Gucci there is an expectation of an over-the-top wowness from the Italian brand which is missing here. The V&A should have been Guccified and made over like Oscar Wilde’s velvet lined panic room, but it just feels a little flat.

menswear Victoria & Albert Museum review V&A Fashioning Masculinities The Art of MenswearThese blockbuster exhibitions need to feel like the best retail, just with the world’s finest objects, where you are seduced and bounced along the show.

Right - A billiard table houses the rainbow of men's pieces both contemporary & historical

Ironically, the room with the most masculine energy was the final room which houses Billy Porter’s, Harry Styles’ and Bimini’s dresses with a black glossy floor and film projection. It felt contemporary, confident and uplifting while spilling the beans that Anna Wintour made the final decision to add a tailored jacket to Harry's American Vogue cover look. Now, that is fashioning masculinity.

Open until 6th November 2022

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More images below

menswear Victoria & Albert Museum review V&A Fashioning Masculinities The Art of Menswear

menswear Victoria & Albert Museum review V&A Fashioning Masculinities The Art of Menswear

menswear Victoria & Albert Museum review V&A Fashioning Masculinities The Art of Menswear

menswear Victoria & Albert Museum review V&A Fashioning Masculinities The Art of Menswear

menswear Victoria & Albert Museum review V&A Fashioning Masculinities The Art of Menswear

 

menswear Victoria & Albert Museum review V&A Fashioning Masculinities The Art of Menswear

menswear Victoria & Albert Museum review V&A Fashioning Masculinities The Art of Menswear

menswear Victoria & Albert Museum review V&A Fashioning Masculinities The Art of Menswear

 

menswear Victoria & Albert Museum review V&A Fashioning Masculinities The Art of Menswear

Published in Men

men's jil sander colour block knit harvey nichols

There's a bit of a buzz around the Jil Sander label at the moment. The label has had more comebacks than Cher, so I usually reserve judgement until I actually see it in a store. Now under the umbrella of Diesel's Only The Brave fashion conglomerate since 2021 (They usually ruin most brands FYI), this jumper was in Harvey Nichols and I liked the strict nautical feeling that makes this feel like something from the '90s and, as such, timeless.

A simple, oversized knit will bold blocks of colour, it reminds me of what Raf Simons did at Calvin Klein not so long ago and feels clean yet designed. There's a movement towards simpler and cleaner styles of fashion, so team this with a plain trousers and simple leather shoes or trainers.

Left & Below - Jil Sander - Colour-blocked cotton-blend jumper - £900

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men's jil sander colour block knit harvey nichols

Published in Men

Orlebar Brown patterned men's trousers Menswear blue Packard SS22Sun, sea and style, the tropical trouser is timeless for any gentleman's holiday season. Made famous by Lillian Pulitzer Rousseau, better known as Lilly Pulitzer, an American socialite and designer, the brightly coloured and highly patterned trouser baton was picked up by Tom Ford who often produces them in his summer and loungewear collections.

Orlebar Brown patterned men's trousers Menswear blue Packard SS22It's all about confidence. Orlebar Brown has really run with the colour and print lately and the whole brand is stronger for it. These Packard trousers also come with a matching hat and neckerchief. They've styled it correctly - right - just ditch the flip-flops and add a sandal. Stick to a plain, solid top - white, blue or black linen would work and sun hat.

Just add white sand, SPF and a palm tree.

Left & Below - Orlebar Brown - Packard - Blues Island Life Drawcord Trousers - £295

Below - Vintage Lilly Pulitzer Adverts

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Vintage lilly Pulitzer patterned men's trousers Menswear blue Packard SS22

Vintage lilly Pulitzer patterned men's trousers Menswear blue Packard SS22

Published in Men
Wednesday, 26 January 2022 10:02

Menswear Trend Contemporary Blue Boy

Blue Boy Gainsborough fashion ASOS DESIGN Menswear blue silk satin SS22Do you know what there isn’t enough of in men’s fashion? Blue satin!

Returning after 100 years, Thomas Gainsborough’s 1770  ‘The Blue Boy’ takes pride of place at London's National Gallery. This is the first time the painting has been loaned by The Huntington in California. It is a once-in-a-century opportunity to see this iconic work in the UK. 

Taking our inspiration from this fine young man, look for light silk satin pieces in sky blue shades to take you from day to night in the warmer summer months.

National Gallery - Until 15 May 2022

Blue Boy Gainsborough fashion Tom Ford MR PORTER Menswear blue silk satin SS22Left - ASOS DESIGN - Regular Satin Shirt with Shawl Neck in Blue - £28.00

Below - TOM FORD - Velvet-Trimmed Stretch-Silk Satin Pyjama Trousers - £580 from MR PORTER

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Blue Boy Gainsborough fashion ASOS DESIGN Menswear blue silk satin SS22

 

Published in Men
Monday, 24 January 2022 15:42

Menswear Trend Bold Argyle

Burberry Menswear argyle print SS22

They say diamonds are a girl’s best friend, but where does that leave argyle? This classic Scottish diamond pattern beloved of golfers is seeing a style renaissance. This bold and often colour print is great way for men to add both colour and pattern to their spring wardrobes. 

The argyle pattern derives from the tartan of Clan Campbell of Argyll in western Scotland. The 11th Duke of Argyll was recently played by Paul Bettany as a volatile aristocrat in the BBC drama, A Very British Scandal. He was even seen unhappily seen advertising argyle socks to pay the castle bills.

Here are TheChicGeek's handpicked argyle pieces of the season with a smattering of vintage inspiration:

vintage socks Menswear argyle print SS22Left - Burberry - Monogram Motif Argyle Intarsia Wool Cashmere Cardigan - £890

Right - Argyle looking 1950s innocent in a cardigan

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Marni Mr Porter Menswear argyle print SS22Left - Marni - Argyle Mohair-Blend Sweater - £730 from MRPORTER.COM

Beams Plus Mr Porter Menswear argyle print SS22Left - Beams Plus - Argyle Cotton-Jacquard Polo Shirt - £125 from MRPORTER.COM

Below - Burlington - Manchester Men Socks - £15

Burlington socks matchesfashion Menswear argyle print SS22

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

GANT Menswear argyle print SS22Left - GANT - Argyle V-Neck Sweater - £135

Gucci matchesfashion Menswear argyle print SS22Left - GUCCI - GG-Argyle Cotton Sleeveless Sweater - £600 from Matchesfashion.com

Below - ASOS DESIGN - Knitted Argyle Tank with Floral Pattern - £25

ASOS DESIGN Menswear argyle print SS22

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Duke of windsor socks Menswear argyle print SS22Left -  Duke of Windsor sporting argyle socks

Below - Argyle colour combinations are limitless

Duke of windsor socks Menswear argyle print SS22

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Published in Men
Tuesday, 30 November 2021 14:11

Palace Collaborates With Kappa

kappa palace collection menswearPalace and Kappa unveil a new collaborative collection: the first time the two brands have worked together.

The Palace Kappa collaboration is a celebration of timeless Italian street style and 1990s British football culture. Kappa invited the Palace design team to explore the Kappa archive in Turin. The extensive collection houses jerseys worn by iconic players, sportswear re-appropriated by Britpop stars, and the hundreds of different Home and Away kits worn by Kappa sponsored teams over the past 30 years.

The Palace design team focused on archival garments that they fondly remember wearing as streetwear ready-mades in the 1990s. Jerseys represented local affiliations, but over time the colour ways evolved beyond strict team allegiances.

kappa palace collection menswearThe Kappa Palace collaboration includes a '90’s fit' crinkle effect long jacket in technical nylon with the Maxi Kappa logo on the shoulders and Palace’s reworked 'banda'' on the sleeves. Another stand out item is the iconic Kappa 222 Banda tracksuit in polytricot, reinterpreted with a playful new Palace Kappa logo. T-shirts with Raglan sleeves are inspired by iconic soccer jerseys in blue, yellow, pink, and black, and a soccer boot bag with the Kappa and Palace logos in rubber round out the collection.

The Kappa® Palace collection is available at Palace stores in London, NYC, LA and Tokyo ; DSM - London and LA Online at palaceskateboards.com

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Published in News
Wednesday, 03 November 2021 11:45

The Only Pre Fall 22 Gucci Menswear Look I Liked

Gucci Prefall Menswear 2022 LA Hollywood

"Hollywood is the American Olympus," Alessandro Michele said of why he wanted to show in L.A, but where were the god-like looks?

Gucci just unveiled another mammoth pre-fall show - Gucci's Love Parade - as it took its latest collection to Los Angeles. With over 100 looks of women's, men's, and everything in between, there was only one that I liked - the pink cowboy. Perfect for a Vegas wedding.

We are all used to Gucci's eclecticism, and, when the looks work, they really work, but this felt like it needed more focus or theme to tie everything in. With Hollywood cited as an inspiration, and all eyes on the brand for the soon-to-be-released film House of Gucci, this collection was a disappointment, especially when there is so much inspiration and characters to mine from Tinseltown's past and present.

Gucci does fantastical and retro so well, so why not take inspiration from the Hollywood Walk of Fame the cast walked on?

I found this picture of Mick Jagger (below) wearing a pop-art style star shirt from the 1970s which would have been perfect to replicate on suiting and separates. Gucci love to rip-off vintage looks and this is pure Harry Styles eat your heart out with a bombastic Elton John kapow psychedelic look.

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Mick Jagger Gucci Prefall Menswear 2022 LA Hollywood

Published in Men
Tuesday, 26 October 2021 14:38

Menswear Product Of The Week The Pouch Glove

Prada pouch glove orange raf simonsRaf Simons at Prada is basically Raf Simons, but with a triangular logo. While he delivered for his debut menswear collection for Prada, - the fans seemed to be happy - the most memorable items were the coloured leather gloves with an annoying little pouch on the back of the hand which you'll never be able to access easily. Costing £850 you'll have nothing left to put in the pouch anyway! Could it be perfect for the back-of-the-hand Oyster entry onto the Underground?

Below - Prada - Zipped-Pouch Gloves in Orange - £850 from LN-CC

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Prada pouch glove orange raf simons

Published in Men
Monday, 08 February 2021 14:11

Celine Menswear AW21 'Teen Knight Poem'

Celine Menswear Teen Knight Poem

Hedi Slimane unveils his latest Celine Menswear collection for AW21-22. Titled ‘Teen Knight Poem', there's not much explanation of the new collection, in typical Slimane fashion, but he's clearly channelling Timothée Chalamet in The King.
Putting the chic into chilvalry, the ruffled neck shirts, chunky chains and studded leather jackets are perfect day or knight!
 
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Celine Menswear Teen Knight Poem

Celine Menswear Teen Knight Poem

Celine Menswear Teen Knight Poem

Celine Menswear Teen Knight Poem

Published in News
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