Maybe it was the summer season, or a sign of the times, but Copenhagen was noticeably quieter in terms of visitors and brands. Both major trade shows, Revolver and CIFF, felt emptier than previous seasons with many brands, both large and small, missing.
Regardless, there was still plenty to take note of and get us excited for the SS20 menswear season. So, here goes:
A womenswear trend from a few summers ago, there’s been a distinctive uptake by guys on social media of the humble string bag. Despite all your worldly goods being on display, the string bag is the cool reusable shopper. These from Danish brand, Épice, are the designer version with the price to match. Established in 1999 by the Danish designers Bess Nielsen and Jan Machenhauer, it offers also a range of printed bags and knitwear made in Italy. Around €70 for a bag.
Left - Épice string bags
Real Fun Fur
It was inevitable that the fun fur movement would touch menswear at some point. But, for those worried that fun-fur/vegan just equals more plastic in the world, new Scandi coat brand, Bobby Rocky, uses woven wool - no sheep were harmed in the making - to create a range of coats. This full shaggy overcoat retails for around for a reasonable €600.
Right - Bobby Rocky wool fun fur
Wishful thinking, designer, Joohyung You, looks at peace between North and South Korea for the SS20 season. This former footballer, who played for German teams, launched his label Freiknock in 2013. This season sees cute peace bears, North Korean propaganda imagery and tailoring inspired by the wardrobe of Kim Jong Un.
Left & Right - Freiknock
The Dutch slang for water or rain, this raincoat brand has ingenious side zippers that allow the jacket to go up over your bike. Maium’s rainwear is produced from recycled plastic bottles, does not contain any harmful substances and is said to be manufactured under fair, safe and healthy working conditions. Around €135 for a coat.
Left - Maium raincoat
The third season from this New York based menswear brand. Creative Director, Terrence Williams, previously a shoe designer with Creative Recreation, with experience spent at Thom Browne, teamed up with English designer, Joshua Fronda, “to develop a playful modern adaptation to subculture classics which became Agent”.
Left - Agent
Based on Old Street roundabout, this multi-brand retailer is pushing its own brand label of £60 tees and tops amongst its list of independent designer brands and trying to keep up with the ever-evolving streetwear consumer.
Left - Ejder
A graduate of Copenhagen’s Royal Danish Academy of Fine Arts, Singaporean designer, Zheqiang Zhang, won the ‘Euro Fashion Award’ in 2018. His label, Pseudonym, is a mix of stunning silk scarves and trench coats incorporating further striking designs.
Right & Below - Pseudonym
With a store in Copenhagen, Uncle Bright mixes 50s Americana with the philosophy that all garments are created to be worn with a functional yet stylish purpose
Uncle Bright says it is happy to wallow in nostalgia and never looks forward for inspiration. Most worthy of note is the handmade footwear. Manufactured in Spain at a factory with more than 100 years of experience, every single boot goes through minimum 200 different stages in production.
Left & Below Left - Uncle Bright
In our modern age you have two hipster artistic choices; Van Gogh or Frida Kahlo? Well, Amsterdam based brand, Daily Paper, has teamed up their Dutch icon, Van Gogh. Knowing their irises from their sunflowers, this capsule collection in collaboration with the Van Gogh Museum in Amsterdam is a painterly hit on shirts, jackets and jeans.
Left & Below - Van Gogh Museum X Daily Paper
See Paris Menswear Trade Show Report - Here
Trust Korea to give us this OTT type of toggle trouser. Drawstrings for days in hot pink thanks to 99%IS- and its designer Bajowoo’s experience of designing merchandise and outfits for underground punk and rock bands in Tokyo, Seoul and Europe.
For cash, Jaded London, has a similar pair at a fraction of the price with strings attached - pun intended. Soz.
Left - 99%IS- - Gobchang Stretch-Shell Drawstring Trousers - £855
Below - Jaded London - Black Nylon Ruched Toggle Detail Jogger - £73
Erborian’s CC HOMME product is a complete, multi-purpose skincare product that draws on the expertise of Korean technology. The next big step in male cosmetics and skin care, these makeup maestros even your skin tone, disguise a wide range of mild imperfections including dullness, fatigue, irritation and redness and ultimately brighten your face giving an instant ‘healthy glow’ effect.
Left - Erborian - CC Homme - 30ml - £29
Containing multiple ‘cc pigments’, a new generation of genuine colour controllers, this cream goes on white and naturally adjusts to your skin tone to enhance your skin’s true radiance. What’s more, it also contains built-in SPF25 coverage to protect the skin.
Providing a sheer and subtle coverage, this cream matifies the skin, leaving it looking smoother and the complexion more even.
TheChicGeek says, “Korean men have become the pioneers of men’s grooming. One of the highest spending of male consumers in the world, it was inevitable that one of the first men’s CC creams would come from this part of the world.
Let’s start by explaining first what a CC cream is. A "CC cream" is used to mean Colour Control cream, or Colour Correcting cream, which reduces the appearance of skin redness or sallowness or to improve uneven skin tone.
Many women use a CC cream as a base under their make-up as it corrects the skin’s colour using light-diffusing particles. Men can put their moisturiser on, then apply this on top.
Firstly, it has the colour (grey/white) of and looks like a standard face scrub yet is smooth. I applied sparingly and then blended it into the skin being careful around my beard/stubble.
It definitely evens out your skin tone and gives you a more uniform appearance. When it’s says ‘brighten’ this often means lighten, but this gives you a hint of colour.
I did ask a few people if it looked like I was wearing make-up and they said “no”. It definitely doesn’t feel like you are.
Men have had BB creams for a while and I thought CC would have been quick to follow. This is the first one I’ve tried and it is definitely something I’d be happy to use again. Guys with uneven skin tone and blemishes would probably find this the most beneficial”.