Displaying items by tag: Fragrance

Friday, 23 April 2021 18:54

Miller Harris Launches Rêverie de Bergamote

miller harris perfume Rêverie de BergamoteMiller Harris announces the launch of Rêverie de Bergamote - a citrus, aromatic scent and the first fragrance created by Miller Harris in 18 months.

Housed in a joyful yellow bottle, Rêverie de Bergamote announces itself with cheery notes of said bergamot, complemented by energetic tangerine and delicate aromatic herbs and woods. As well as its playful, sunny citrus accord, earthy notes of patchouli, moss and vetiver provide an enveloping base, which warms up beautifully on the skin as the scent develops.

Left - Miller Harris - Rêverie de Bergamote - 100ml - £115

Available from June, 2021 at millerharris.com

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Published in News
Monday, 19 April 2021 15:33

Jo Malone London’s Marmalade Collection

Jo Malone London Marmalade Fragrance CollectionInspired by the shape and detailing seen on vintage marmalade jars. Jo Malone London celebrates all the fun of the fete with a new collection, The Marmalade Collection. Five scents; Tangy Rhubarb, Rose Blush, Orange Peel, Elderflower and Blackberry & Bay are included in the new 30ml cologne range.

Natural fruit extracts were created specially for The Marmalade Collection by one of the UK’s leading soft fruit processors in Blairgowrie, Scotland. Usually used in the food industry, fruits and berries from local growers are steam distilled into draughts that are added directly to the fragrance. These extracts help to capture the true vibrancy of tart rhubarb and juicy blackberry. 

Jo Malone London Marmalade Fragrance CollectionCeline Roux, Global Head of Fragrance says, “Over 10 years ago, we launched the Sugar & Spice collection, which was inspired by beloved British puddings. This worked really well, and I started thinking about fragrances themed around jams and, in particular, marmalade. Using seasonal fruits to create homemade preserves that you can gift to family and friends seems like such a quintessentially British pastime, conjuring up images of English breakfasts, high teas and village fêtes.”

Jo Malone London Marmalade Fragrance CollectionTheChicGeek says, “This looks like Jo Malone’s attempt to woo the Gen Z customer; smaller sizes, cheaper price points, Helvetica-like hipster packaging and sweet shop type fragrances. The imagery is a mix of Gucci and soft-focus Sofia Coppola. This feels like a completely different customer for them, though some of their fragrances have always had a mix of sweet and gourmandy in there. I haven't tried these to recommend any."

Jo Malone London Marmalade Fragrance CollectionJo Malone - Marmalade Collection - 30ml - £55

jomalone.co.uk and Jo Malone London stores nationwide from 1st May 2021

#MarmaladeCollection

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Published in News
Thursday, 08 April 2021 16:08

Miller Harris Étui Noir Bath & Body Collection

Miller Harris Etui Noir soap body washMiller Harris has reworked and reformulated its Étui Noir bath & body products to offer a bath time experience that is both soothing and comforting. Étui Noir is a masculine celebration of inky black leather with the warm intensity of the tactile powder of iris to create an exciting sense of contrast. Evocative of leather’s many forms; well-worn jackets, patent boots and suede gloves, Étui Noir is a rich and uncompromising scent. 

NEW Étui Noir Body Wash - £22 (300ml), NEW Étui Noir Soap - £20, NEW Étui Noir Gift Set - £90 - The Etui Noir gift set includes the Etui Noir Eau de Parfum (50ml) and the Etui Noir Body Wash (300ml) stylishly presented in a luxury gift box.

millerharris.com 

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Published in News
Friday, 26 March 2021 19:53

Tried & Tested Montblanc EXPLORER Ultra Blue

Review tried tested mont blanc explorer ultra blueBlue is the colour of the sky and the seas; the colour of ice-covered mountain peaks and expansive lakes and the inspiration for Montblanc’s fragrance Explorer Ultra Blue.

Three noses, Givaudan’s Jordi Fernandez, Olivier Pescheux, and Antoine Maisondieu have come together. The top notes are a zesty fusion of Italian bergamot and citrus of the finest quality, with the addition of a touch of pink peppercorn to deliver a fresh spicy note with woody facets.

A marine accord is the beating heart of the fragrance. The blue aquatic depth that comes from fusing citrus with the marine and airy notes evokes the freshness of Alpine landscapes, with the subtle hint of a sea breeze. The fresh, iodine, salty and airy notes contrast with grey amber notes. One final stop on the island of Sulawesi in Indonesia delivers the base notes of patchouli that defines the structure of Montblanc Explorer Ultra Blue.

Left - Montblanc Explorer Ultra Blue - EDP 100ml - £72

TheChicGeek says, “This is a fresh woody fragrance. It’s easy on and easy off. It’s a burst mountain forests, but it’s not a stayer. and quickly disappears. It’s cohesive without a single note dominating and also nothing jarring. It feels mature but not old fashioned. The idea was for it to be glacial, without being cold, like breathing the air of the mountain forests. The patchouli here is said to be original to the fragrance, being distilled to remove the dark and earth facets,

The bottle is the same iteration as the original EXPLORER but in a rich blue colour way.”

Launches nationwide May 2021

See TheChicGeek’s Tried & Tested of the first Montblanc EXPLORER here

Disclosure - A sample was gifted by Montblanc for review

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Published in Men
Tuesday, 09 February 2021 12:27

Versace EROS Eau de Parfum

versace men's fragrance eros eau de parfum“I envisioned a heroic, passionate man, almost a Greek god. The fragrance is made up of notes that express sensuality and power, an extreme force”Donatella Versace

Versace's Eros fragrance, launched in 2013, gets an Eau de Parfum upgrade. The woody, oriental has a new chapter, revealed in the depth of its woody accord, cedar - vetiver - patchouli, rekindled by the radiant, energetic light of the quintessentially Italian lemon and mandarin and enlivened by a unique note of candied apple. Decadent vanilla dares to flirt with leather in the final note.

The campaign was shot in London by photographers Mert & Marcus, under the creative direction of Donatella Versace. The protagonist is the American model Brian Shimansky.

versace men's fragrance eros eau de parfum

Left - Eros Eau de Parfum is available exclusively at Boots nationwide - 100ml - £85

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versace men's fragrance eros eau de parfum

Published in News
Thursday, 04 February 2021 17:38

Paco Rabanne 1 Million Still Top

top UK men's fragrance lookfantastic paco rabanne 1 millionA new study by online beauty retailer LOOKFANTASTIC has revealed that Paco Rabanne 1 Million is still the UK's favourite men's fragrance. The study analysed Google search volumes of over 70 of the top-selling male fragrances in each country across the globe, revealing the most popular worldwide.

Paco Rabanne's 1 Million also came out as the top fragrance in 26 other countries such as New Zealand and Canada too. Tom Ford Tobacco Vanille came in second, coming in top across 22 countries and Jean Paul Gaultier Le Male came in third by being the most popular in 20 countries across the world.

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Published in News
Tuesday, 01 December 2020 16:30

ChicGeek Comment Lockdown Sizing

lockdown sizing in fragrance moschinoThere was a time when the sizing of perfume and fragrance couldn’t get any bigger. Brands and designers were piling into flacons of 200ml and upwards, trying to squeeze as much money as possible out of consumers for their hit ‘juices’. Two hundred millilitres is more conducive to the drinks cabinet than the bathroom.  Then came lockdowns.

Left - Brands such as Versace and Moschino are producing 'lockdown sizes' of 10ml fragrances for £20

A McKinsey report in May, 2020, said, with regards to the global beauty market, “2020 will be one of the worst years it has ever endured.” The report said consumer retail spending on beauty products was experiencing a sharp decline (up to 20%) as well, leading to an unprecedented projected $175 billion USD loss in revenue for the industry this year. 90% of women stated, in the report, they used little to no makeup while working from home.

It said, in May, “based on the scenarios most expected by global executives and current trends, we estimate global beauty-industry revenues could fall 20 to 30 percent in 2020. In the United States, if there is a COVID-19 recurrence later in the year, the decline could be as much as 35 percent.”

Unilever too has reported declining revenues in its personal care division. An update in April warned about shrinking personal care sales because more people working from home meant they were washing their hair less often, putting off shaving and even ditching deodorant. Four months on, in its Q3 report, it said personal care sales had continued to slump.

Graham Pitkethly, Unilever’s chief financial officer, said "fewer personal care occasions from going to work or socialising” impacted sales. Skincare declined high-single digit and deodorants declined low-single digit. Though there was a slowing of declines when we came out of lockdown during the summer.

The greedy fragrance industry has been built upon a biggest is best attitude when it comes to their products, and especially gifting, when, in fact, a little should go a long way. Brands have realised that demand has changed and are now launching smaller sizes in 10ml or 20ml editions. Moschino and Versace has 10ml options in many of their fragrances including ‘Toy Boy’, ’Dylan Blue’ and ‘Eros’ for £20. Eight & Bob has added a range with a 30ml (with optional artisan leather case), a size which isn’t often seen in bridge/niche brands. Much of this sizing was ironically called ‘Travel Size’ when, in fact, it’s the lack of travel and leaving the house which is creating the demand. Tocca has a ‘Travel Trio Set’ containing three 20ml bottles, while Goutal Paris is offering a ‘discovery set’ containing four classic 10ml fragrances from their range.

Sarah Binns, Head of Training at KGA, one of the UK & Ireland’s leading fragrance distributors, currently representing over 25 premium perfume brands, says, “Ironically I saw this ‘travel size’ trend start pre COVID-19 in response to the always on the go lifestyle and as a way to entice younger consumers into the category with a lower price point on luxury brands. Retailers had started requesting smaller sizes in fragrances to showcase in their pick ’n’ mix style locations near till points. It is interesting to see how this new size category has become so valuable in the current climate too.” she says.

“I think a lot of brands had started to develop these sizes pre lockdown for other reasons, but they have really come into their own with the current situation. Brands are aware that consumers are nervous to spend on something they can’t try first so this is a great solution.” says Binns.

The McKinsey report said, in most major beauty-industry markets, in-store shopping accounted for up to 85 percent of beauty-product purchases prior to the COVID-19 crisis, with some variation by subcategory. Even online-savvy American millennials and Gen Zers (those born between 1980 and 1996) made close to 60% of their purchases in stores. With the closure of premium beauty-product outlets because of COVID-19, approximately 30 percent of the beauty-industry market was shut down. Some of these stores will never open again, and new openings will likely be delayed for at least a year.

lockdown sizing in fragrance goutal paris

Suzy Nightingale, Senior Writer at The Perfume Society says, “We’re definitely seeing more fragrances offered in smaller ‘try me’ sizes, and although beauty products have been used less in lockdown; we’ve actually seen a huge rise in sales of our discovery boxes and brand sets, which offer sample vials, miniature bottles and travel sizes to try at home. Classic scents have even made a comeback as people reach for a familiar fragrances as a comfort blanket, reminding them of happier times.” she says.

Right - Goutal Paris 4 x 10ml fragrance sizes exclusively available at John Lewis: www.johnlewis.com - £68

“I think there’s been a desperate longing for ‘newness’, and we’ve also had fragrance lovers tell us they don’t want to associate this year with a single scent.” says Nightingale. “Simultaneously, many fragrance houses suddenly realised that, if people can’t get to shops or, when they do, tester bottles aren’t readily available anymore. This fast-tracked something we’ve all been asking for anyway: smaller size bottles we can try before we buy, or use to explore a diversity of scents or fragrance notes out of our usual comfort zones. 

“I definitely see this trend continuing - online previously had the hurdle of being a difficult place to buy your first full-size bottle of perfume if you’d not smelled it already. Nowadays, people want greater choice and the chance to flirt with lots of fragrances. Sometimes more IS more, but it doesn’t always mean a bigger bottle…” she says.

While the term ‘lockdown sizing’ won’t be used by the brands, it’s an interesting twist on the entry ‘travel size’ offer. These prices are keener and entice people to buy before they try. This is the beauty industry's version of a micro-bag; an entry level product aimed at younger and less affluent consumers. 

“Smaller sizes bring accessibility, the signature scent is becoming a thing of the past and it is much easier to build a large fragrance collection with these entry price options. In an environment when you often can’t test the product before you purchase, it’s a smaller risk to invest in a mini size first.” says Binns.

“I think this trend will continue within the COVID-19 environment as a way to experience new products before making a larger investment in the full size. Once we are able to travel again I’m sure that they will become even more popular for their portability.” she says.

How many people are wearing fragrance at home, or, at least, in the quantity they used to without social engagements and interaction with other people or work colleagues? The cheaper prices are also a factor in their popularity. When fully branded and looking as good as the full size bottles, rather than a simple tester, these items look much more desirable.

“Consumer confidence is low and this always has an effect on spending within beauty. People are reaching for products that make them feel good as oppose to looking or smelling good for other’s benefit. Fragrance sales were hit hard at the beginning of the pandemic but we have seen a steady increase as people rediscover the joy of treating themselves or showing love to others with a gift that encourages wellbeing” says Binns.

Sales in smaller sizes are better than no sales at all for the beauty industry, and the margins will be higher. The fragrance industry will hope these smaller lockdown sizes will encourage and continue the habit of individuals wearing fragrance even if we continue to be on our own.

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Published in Comment
Friday, 21 February 2020 12:10

Label To Know Gallivant Perfumes

Review 
Gallivant Perfumes Tokyo tried testedA new indie perfume brand from London, founded and created by Nick Steward, Gallivant works in collaboration with perfumers in Venice and Paris. The collection of eight hand-crafted fragrances, named after some of the world’s most vibrant cities, are designed to be travel-friendly with 30ml sized bottles, perfect for slipping into your holdall. 

Nick Steward has two decades of hands-on experience in perfume making and was product and creative director of the pioneering niche house L’Artisan Parfumeur.

Handmade in the UK, unisex, vegan and cruelty-free. Gallivant is an ethical and sustainable independent artisan business. 

Left - Gallivant Perfumes - 30ml Eau de Parfum - £65

TheChicGeek says, “The Phileas Fogg of perfume, Nick Seward, has produced a travelogue of scent. From Tel Aviv to Brooklyn, each fragrance is a modern take on a place memory. 

I was hoping ‘London’ was going to smell like the inside of a red telephone box. Ewww!

If I had to pick a favourite, I would say ‘Tokyo’. Created with Nicolas Bonneville, it is a zingy, spicy, wood. A citrusy head of bergamot and yuzu with black pepper and cardamom, is electrified with a dash of wasabi. A woody heart of hinoki, cedarwood, and incense with orris root, rose and nutmeg mixes with a base of amber, sandalwood, patchouli and vetiver.

Tokyo has a slightly treacly cola top with an aquatic freshness. The warmed incense is there, but it’s deep and kept light with the fruit.”

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Disclosure - A sample was gifted by Gallivant for review

Published in Grooming
Friday, 22 November 2019 15:58

Tried & Tested Parterre The Hour of Dusk & Gold

Review 
fragrance Parterre The Hour of Dusk & Gold tried testedInspired by the warmth of a Moroccan evening, the fusion of spices coming from the medina and the hues of the setting sun over the ocean viewed from the rooftops of the Essaouira, The Hour of Dusk & Gold is the latest fragrance from British brand, Parterre. Persian wild carrot seed and angelica root grown of Keyneston Mill, are embellished with orris and a swirl of nutmeg, lavender, and bay.

Left - Parterre - The Hour of Dusk & Gold - 50ml - £95

TheChicGeek says, “Parterre launched two year’s ago with the ambition of turning a corner of Dorset into Britain’s answer to Grasse - See Label To Know - Parterre from TheChicGeek archive - here I wanted to see how they were getting on. Like I said to the founders, Julia and David, when people planted vineyards in England, decades ago, people scoffed, and the same could be said for this idea. As the climate changes, this could become a leader in this field for UK grown fragrance ingredients.

While the fragrances aren’t 100% UK grown, this new scent does includes carrot seed and angelica root from their farm.

This is lightly spiced and it has that attractive warm and dry sensation from the carrot seed. The iris orris root always enhances and gives depth to the other notes, but nothing sticks its head out here as individual notes. As a fragrance is it wearable while offering something different without trying too hard, but I do think it’s important to give fragrances more simpler and memorable names."

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Published in Grooming
Friday, 01 November 2019 17:15

Label To Know Ormaie

Review 
New fragrance label Ormaie Paris Harvey NicholsA French term for a place you'd grow elm trees, now sadly long gone due to Dutch elm disease, 'Ormaie' is a mother and son - Marie-Lise Jonak and Baptiste Bouygues - team producing completely natural and vegan fragrances. Seven in total, all featuring striking and sculptural wooden stoppers, they are produced and formulated alongside renowned raw natural ingredient specialists, Robertet. The glass bottle is by Saverglass, the only French glassmaker to recycle their own glass magma.

Fragrances include '28°', said to be Bouygues' perfect temperature, 'Yvonne' named after the grandmother and 'Le Passant' meaning the passing man, and deemed the most masculine fragrance.

TheChicGeek says, "Of the seven, I liked 'Les Brumes' (The Mists) the most. It is a citrus inspired by morning mist on the fruit trees. Ingredients include lemon, mandarin, bergamot, ginger and sandalwood." 

Left - Ormaie - 100ml - £180 Exclusive to Harvey Nichols

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Published in Labels To Know
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