Cut&Pin is a new Yorkshire based menswear brand launched by Al Baker and Martin Parker, two male friends sharing one vision; to create a wardrobe of everyday pieces, using recycled cashmere, jersey and organic cottons - designed and made with integrity at the core.
Baker has worked in the brand marketing and digital arena across a multitude of mid-to-luxury brands for 20 years and Parker has worked in the fashion industry for 22 years as a designer, across menswear and womenswear, working with some of the biggest retailers on the UK high street.
Cut&Pin uses a three-pillared approach in the creation of its collection, which is produced from either deadstock piles (the pieces big manufacturers throw away), recycled materials and organic fabric. This low-waste philosophy is coupled with a particular attitude towards the design process, in which consideration is given to the shape, detail and fabric, ensuring a fad-free wardrobe is created that can be worn time and time again. All supply partners are low-scale, family run businesses that share the ethical Cut&Pin mindset and can make small, exclusive runs. Nothing is ever mass produced.
The debut collection takes its inspiration from David Hockney, another proud Yorkshireman. It includes oversized ribbed knits, long-line scarfs, rugby-striped cardigans and navy cotton trackpants. The range will also include chinos and denim.
TheChicGeek says, "Recycled fibres are the future for a sustainable and fully cyclical fashion industry. People want to wear new, but the fibres can be recycled or reused. Cashmere, due to its expense, is currently the only fibre it really makes economic sense to work with at the moment, but this will change when processes become cheaper and more common place.
These guys sound like they have plenty of experience, and looking at the images, you can already tell everything is going to be nice to the touch."
Available online at www.cutandpin.com plus Wolf & Badger, Generous Ape and Immaculate Vegan. Prices range from £35 for a T-shirt, to £170 for a cardigan or sweater.
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He has previously done collections/collaborations with John Smedley, Kurt Geiger, Rowing Blazers, Habitat, Anthropologie, Lucy Folk, Richard Ginori, Stubbs & Wootton, and now GANT is added to the list. The man in question is Luke Edward Hall, a modern day Hockney with the eye for colour to match.
When GANT’s current Global Artistic Director, Christopher Bastin, return last year, the brand was due some quirky direction. I’ve always been a fan of what he did at the now defunct GANT Rugger brand.
"This collection takes its inspiration from my home in the English countryside, and how I spend weekends there with friends. From jumpers and tweed coats for stalking through fields to 1970s-inspired velvet suits and silk shirts for candlelit dinners, it’s ruggedly elegant and very English.” says Edward Hall.
He does the same thing for everybody, but that’s okay, because I like it. It’s the same eclectic rift as Gucci.
The standout piece is this cosy corduroy DB in rich reddy brown with brass buttons. It’s a shame they didn’t include one of Luke Edward Hall’s classical heads as pictured. They could have made it detachable. That aside, this is a classic and lifetime wearable piece.
Just add a pink dahlia!
Left & Below - Luke Edward Hall For GANT - Corduroy Blazer - £400
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Britain recently lost one of its retail and design kings, Sir Terence Conran, who was famed for his love of cobalt blue. From his shirts to his socks, this knight loved his French blue workwear or 'bleu de travail’. He actually has his own blue called Pantone 072 C, aka Conran Blue.
It help you celebrate this giant of British style, Drake’s has a thick suede ‘Chore’ jacket in this striking blue primary. Made in Italy with horn buttons, it also has a touch of the Hockney’s about it, which I’m sure Terence would have appreciated even more. Wearing this will never be a chore.
Left & Below - Drake’s - Chore Jacket - £1195
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Somewhere in the depths of rainy Kent, TheChicGeek, was a Lego-like vision of colour.
When we think of bold colours we often get sidetracked by prints and pattens. Plain primaries, like these, should be looked at like children's building blocks, all adding up to a balanced whole. Don't be frightened by bold trousers, because, when they're balanced, like here with other just as strong colours, they don't feel as bright and daring. It says confidence and references masters of colour like David Hockney and Luke Edward Hall.
Credits - #Gifted Shirt - Barena, Sandals - Grenson, Socks - Falke, Jacket - Slowear #NotGifted Trousers - Polo Ralph Lauren
When I was shown a few pieces from ‘Basic Rights’, at a recent press day, I thought it was just another rich boy trying to reinvent the white T-shirt. Do we need more expensive basics when we’re quite happy with what we’ve got from Uniqlo and various other affordable retailers? Fast forward a few months and it’s clear this is something far more thoughtful and serious.
Left - Basic Rights SS18 inspired by Marrakech
Founded by The Vaccines’ lead guitarist, Freddie Cowan, what may have started as a desire for a good T-shirt and trousers has flourished into a full tour wardrobe. Like any clever fashion entrepreneur, he’s enlisted a master architect to help with the design and cut of the pieces.
Right - Basic Rights - High Waist Linen Trousers Brown - £160
Savile Row master tailor, David Chambers, who had previously made clothes for Freddie’s parents, and an expert with 50 years’ experience, is helping to translate Freddie’s ideas into form-fitting items.
Having learnt under Fred Astaire’s tailor and spent his apprenticeship making trousers at Anderson & Sheppard, he has made suits for David Hockney, Manolo Blahnik and Terrence Conran. Men who certainly know a thing or two about good design.
Founded in 2016 in New York, Basic Rights is launching in the UK, this season, with a collection inspired by Marrakech. High waisted linen trousers, Western jackets and camp collar shirts are seen on a pair of models mirroring Mick Jagger and Jimi Hendrix.
These items are simple yet have identity. Prices are good: £40 for a tee to £230 for a Western satin jacket. I’m excited about this brand purely because of the expertise of David. Finding a good pair of nicely fitting trousers is often very difficult. I have high hopes for these high waisted pairs and can’t wait to try them.
Right - Mick & Jimi fighting for their SS18 Basic Rights
Left - Striped Collarless Shirt - £110
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Cecil Beaton was a true original. From the moment he arrived at Cambridge University in 1922 wearing an evening jacket, red shoes, black-and-white trousers and a large cravat, to his appearance nearly forty years later at Truman Capote’s 1970 Black and White Ball, Beaton expressed unmatched sartorial flamboyance and nonchalance. He held accounts with many Savile Row tailors, bought his hats from Herbert Johnson and Lock & Co and his shirts from Excello in New York. A testament to his stylistic significance, many elements of his wardrobe are today held in the collections of the Metropolitan Museum, New York, and the V&A, London.
Below - Cecil Beaton & David Hockney in the conservatory at Reddish House, 1970
TheChicGeek says, "This book came at a perfect time as I was already Pinning images of Beaton and his conservatory on my ChicGeek Pinterest page - here - and wanted to know/see more. A confirmed snob, photographer Cecil Beaton is better known for his subjects then for the man himself. Benjamin Wild's does his best with, in what I can only imagine to be, a limited supply amount of information, physical items and photographs. These things just weren't documented as much in those days. You almost want to bring Beaton into the 21st century and gorge yourself on images. I'm sure he'd be one for the selfie, if only to double check himself.
Left - 'Rabbit' coat made by Beaton, 1937
One of the best segments of the book is his reaction to his portraits. Showing his level of vanity, he didn't even like David Hockney's drawings. I'm pretty sure that Francis Bacon would have been a wise investment, if he'd liked it!
The image of Beaton in his conservatory with David Hockney - above - is one of my all time favourite menswear images. It sums up the eccentric side of the English gentleman.
The book is a quick glimpse of one the 20th century's greatest social climbers and the taste level that allowed him to progress. Starting as one of the early 20th century's 'Bright Young Things' and living and working through a very exciting time in Britain, he seems the type of opinionated character worthy of reading their diary".
Thames & Hudson - £29.95
Right - Beaton, James Fox & Mick Jagger on set of film Performance, 1968
When William Webb Ellis first picked up that ball, and ran with it, little did he know that nearly 200 years later 20 international teams would be competing for a cup named in his honour.
Left - Superdry - World Legends - England £74.99
The Rugby World Cup returns home to England, this autumn, in what will be one of the sporting highlights of the year.
TheChicGeek says "Rugby style, particularly the rugby shirt, never really goes out of style. Whether in team colours or bold stripes, it was a favourite of artist David Hockney and was heavily referenced by John Ray, Creative Director at dunhill, at both his spring and autumn 15 collections."
Right - A little of bit of retro inspiration - David Hockney sporting a striped rugby top
The Rugby World Cup runs from 18th September - 31st October 2015 and here are TheChicGeek's picks of the best rugby inspired menswear available:
Below - dunhill - AW15 catwalk collection - Yellow Soft Cotton Rugby Shirt - £230
Left - Polo Ralph Lauren - Custom-Fit Striped Rugby Shirt - £230
Below - Jack Wills - Striped Rugby Shirt - £49.50
Left - Jack Wills - Rugby Ball - £16.50
Left - Thomas Pink - Rugby Cufflinks - £69
Left - Thomas Pink - Stanford Knit Rugby Jumper - £225
Middle - The Rugby Fragrance - 100ml - £24.99
Below Right - dunhill - AW15 Catwalk Collection - Brown Cotton/Cashmere Rugby Polo - £625