Moncler has unveiled its first-ever fragrances, Moncler Pour Homme and Moncler Pour Femme. The new fragrances are the latest in a long line of inspirational creations by the brand and a natural extension of a 360° lifestyle brand celebrated around the world for its heritage of mountain excellence.
Left - Moncler Pour Homme - 150ml - £170 exclusive to Selfridges
The fragrance duo shares a unique 'Mountain Woods' accord exclusive to Moncler. This warm, sophisticated woody element is a common DNA that evokes the pioneering spirit of the brand. Beyond this accord, each fragrance unveils an intrinsic blend of prestigious natural materials and unique accords formulated in the hands of perfumers Nisrine Grillié, Quentin Bisch, Antoine Maisondieu and Christophe Raynaud at Givaudan.
“The Mountain Woods accord is the common thread between the women’s and men’s fragrance. For its woody, outdoors feeling, we used cedarwood. For the stylish sophistication of the house, we worked with a saturation of amber. Together with Antoine Maisondieu, we added sandalwood for its comforting, creamy warmth.” says Nisrine Grillié.
Moncler Pour Homme is a woody aromatic fragrance created by perfumers Antoine Maisondieu and Christophe Raynaud. Said to capture the vibrant natural beauty of an alpine forest, the fragrance contains an unprecedented saturation of woody notes. Starting with the exclusive Alpine Green accord for Moncler that, combined with the energising freshness of clary sage, lifts the fragrance through a leafy expanse of mountain pines.
“Moncler Pour Homme is a deep-dive of woody notes – much more than any classic men’s fragrance. The Mountain Woods accord present in both fragrances is accentuated a lot more in Moncler Pour Homme. For Christophe Raynaud and I, the idea was to play that against the fresh, green element of the Alpine Green accord with aromatic touches of pine resin, sage and cypress. To that effect, Monler Pour Homme is very modern in the way that it has a long dry down – it doesn’t really follow the formal construction of a traditional perfume.” says Antoine Maisondieu.
The fragrance is showcased in a unique ‘borraccia’ flask-shaped bottle encircled with a ribbed silver case and cap – a utilitarian echo to Moncler’s mountaineering origins and the iconic quilted construction of a Moncler jacket. The Moncler Pour Homme bottle features a silver-dipped effect and an LED screen adorns the bottle of the rechargeable 150ml edition with an illuminated message panel customisable via a Bluetooth-powered smartphone app. This playful innovation allows you to write a personal note that appears in scrolling red letters across the bottle’s mirrored façade when activated by the Moncler logo-shaped push button in contrasting black.
TheChicGeek says, "The first Moncler fragrance was always going to be a fresh wood, naturally, conjuring up those snow covered pined peaks and crisp mountain air. The brand has grown to become one of the biggest and more desirable of the designer down coat brands, particularly its multitude of small designer collections under its Genius header. The LED bottle idea sounds fantastically fun, love the personalisation element, and also relates to Moncler's technical expertise."
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Dunhill Driven is said to be inspired by the man who is fearless, has confidence and persistence. A fragrance for the man who is a warrior at heart, it opens with a blend of bergamot, lime, red apple and plum. The heart of the fragrance delivers freshness with a blend of cardamom, cinnamon, and jasmine, all harmoniously combined with velvety rose. The base maintains a warm depth, with notes of amber, amyris wood, vanilla, cedarwood and musk.
Left - Dunhill - Driven - Available at The Fragrance Shop - EDP 100ml - £64
TheChicGeek says, “Dunhill has had more brand directions than a compass and aesthetic reinventions than the cast of Friends. Creative Directors have come and gone - it's currently Mark Weston, formerly of Burberry - and the brand has pin-balled from one new look to another over the decades. The current vibe is fashion cool, but as a style observer, they need commit before I do.
As for the fragrance, it is well thought out. Great name, referencing the Dunhill motorcar heritage, while feeling modern with the packaging and branding. The monochrome design on the box is pulled from a current runway shirt. The bottle is great with its large black gear top.
Dunhill has done some great men’s fragrances over the last few years. This feels safe and commercial. The three main scent pillars are a top of red apple, middle of cardamom and base of cedarwood. It would have be nice have something more forward thinking with a name like Driven, but it’s an easy wear and if you’re a fan of Boss Bottled you’ll love this.”
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A new indie perfume brand from London, founded and created by Nick Steward, Gallivant works in collaboration with perfumers in Venice and Paris. The collection of eight hand-crafted fragrances, named after some of the world’s most vibrant cities, are designed to be travel-friendly with 30ml sized bottles, perfect for slipping into your holdall.
Nick Steward has two decades of hands-on experience in perfume making and was product and creative director of the pioneering niche house L’Artisan Parfumeur.
Handmade in the UK, unisex, vegan and cruelty-free. Gallivant is an ethical and sustainable independent artisan business.
TheChicGeek says, “The Phileas Fogg of perfume, Nick Seward, has produced a travelogue of scent. From Tel Aviv to Brooklyn, each fragrance is a modern take on a place memory.
I was hoping ‘London’ was going to smell like the inside of a red telephone box. Ewww!
If I had to pick a favourite, I would say ‘Tokyo’. Created with Nicolas Bonneville, it is a zingy, spicy, wood. A citrusy head of bergamot and yuzu with black pepper and cardamom, is electrified with a dash of wasabi. A woody heart of hinoki, cedarwood, and incense with orris root, rose and nutmeg mixes with a base of amber, sandalwood, patchouli and vetiver.
Tokyo has a slightly treacly cola top with an aquatic freshness. The warmed incense is there, but it’s deep and kept light with the fruit.”
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Disclosure - A sample was gifted by Gallivant for review
Jo Malone has teamed up with Savile Row tailors, Huntsman to release 4 fragrances aimed at men. They are: Amber & Patchouli, Assam & Grapefruit, Birch & Black Pepper and Whisky & Cedarwood.
TheChicGeek says, “The first thing to point out is that none of these fragrances are new. They were all part of Jo Malone’s limited summer editions over the last few years - see more here - As many of those probably passed guys by, they’ve brought back these four.
Huntsman is one of Savile Row’s most famously expensive tailors, but doesn’t have the design identity to play around with, so I think they’ve done really well just replicating the gold huntsman lettering on the front window onto the bottle. Simple yet classy.
They could have gone all silly prices with this, but I’m glad they’ve kept it in line with the rest of the Jo Malone brand. My favourites are Assam & Grapefruit, which gives you that yummy and zesty Earl Grey aroma and Birch & Black Pepper, which is the simple punchy notes of smokey birch tar and spicy black pepper. The Amber is fairly forgettable and the Whisky one just isn’t boozy enough for us boys. Cheers!”
Available at Jo Malone London Boutiques and at Huntsman Savile Row - 100ml - £120 each
Azzaro’s Wanted By Night is a woody-oriental-spicy eau de parfum created by Quentin Bisch and Michel Girard and is a new twist on the original 'Wanted' released a couple of years ago.
A woody base note is brought on by white cedar. The juiciness of a sparkling mandarin, zested with a hint of its nectar, is mixed with warm, spicy cinnamon notes and the woody tonalities of cedarwood.
Left - Wanted's controversial bottle. Maybe it's a big seller in the US?! Azzaro Wanted By Night - 50ml - EDP - £46
Red cedarwood’s explosive charisma and the flamboyance of cumin, creates a heart crafted in precious woods with a warm, nectary tobacco blend is reinforced with Atlas cedarwood.
TheChicGeek says, “When you get to my age it should be more Wanted By Teatime! This has a sticky, synthetic smell, which I like. Nothing smells natural about this which I find more interesting.
The cinnamon gives it a youthful and warming edge. There aren’t any layers here. It is, what it is, then disappears relatively quickly, especially for an eau de parfum.
The bottle, which is the shape of a fully-loaded gun chamber, got quite a lot of flack when it first appeared two years ago, but it does look slightly better here with darker juice. The advert, on the other hand, looks like a 16 year old’s version of sophisticated. Don’t get me started about that eyebrow…”
Right - Who signs this stuff off? *raises eyebrow*
TheChicGeek says, “You’ll be pleased to know this doesn’t smell like the top deck of a double decker bus. If somebody sprayed this and you had to close your eyes, you’d never guess this was called ‘Cannabis’.
Inspired by Andrew Goetz’s time in Amsterdam, the fragrance contains bergamot, black pepper and magnolia with a base of cedarwood, patchouli and sandalwood.
It’s fresh, fragrant and warm. There isn’t any smoke or that pungent odour associated with cannabis and is definitely an easy-wearer. This would make a good, everyday fragrance and I think the 420 fans will be disappointed if they smell this. Maybe they should have called it 'Amsterdam'?"
Left - Malin + Goetz Cannabis EDP 100ml - £125
See more grooming products containing cannabis here
TheChicGeek says, “Based around organic soaps, SCRUBD is a new British grooming brand. Founded by entrepreneur, Mark Helvadjian, his previous company was ShippingEasy, an online fulfilment platform, after he couldn’t find premium all-natural grooming products created specifically for men. Two years ago the journey began and, now, launches with 9 products - 4 of which are soaps - exclusively at Harvey Nichols.
Left - SCRUBD grooming based around organic soap - Exclusively in Harvey Nichols - Soaps - Cedarwood & Grapefruit, Lemongrass & Lime, Oakmoss & Spearmint, Charcoal & Black Pepper - £17, Face Scrub - £24
I was sent 2 soaps and the face scrub to try:
I like the branding, it’s simple yet distinctive. The soaps are man-sized and will last a decent amount of time. I can’t see in the blurb how the ‘Hand-crafted all-natural, organic triple-milled soap block’ has been made specifically for men’s skin? I must be missing something.
I don’t usually use soap as it dries out the skin. This has an element of dryness, but it isn’t too bad. I like the all-natural, organic idea and the smell is subtle - it could actually be stronger.
There’s a novelty to using soap, when you don’t usually, especially in certain areas! These big sizes will be more cost effective than any body wash. They are fairly premium for a soap - £17 - but it is “hand-crafted” in England and organic.
The "Face Scrub" is pretty standard. It’s nice and soft and cleanses and washes off easily. I usually judge a new grooming range on its moisturiser which I didn’t try here, but I like the idea of bringing soaps back and centring the brand around these.”
Part of Miller Harris’ premium ‘Perfumer’s Library’ collection, Le Cèdre is the latest unisex addition. For the adventurer, it is a spicy tale of cedarwood and black orchid. It features top notes of pink and black pepper, a heart of black orchid and mimosa and, of course, the base of Texas cedarwood and musk.
TheChicGeek says, “I really like the top of this. The black pepper is raw yet clean. The black orchid isn’t the Tom Ford type, but something softer and more subtle all on the warm foundation of the cedar wood. The only issue is that the pepper quickly disappears and it would be nice for it resonate longer. I would say this is on the masculine side of the unisex fragrance spectrum”.
Left - Miller Harris - Le Cèdre - 100ml - £155
Available May 2017
Beirut based, IDEO Parfumeurs, takes inspiration from 1930s Morocco and Egypt with their new fragrance, Tarbouch Afandi. The name refers to a traditional gentleman's hat - the 'Tarbouch' - while 'Afandi' means both mandarin - a central note in the fragrance - but also the respectful 'Sir'!
Notes include green mandarin, pine, peppermint, honeyed tobacco and Lebanese cedarwood.
TheChicGeek says, ”I’d not heard of IDEO before, but if this is anything to go by then they are using the best ingredients in an interesting way. What makes this stand out is the animalic notes. Parfumeurs often stay clear of these musky and sexual ingredients as they can often have that primitive reaction of warning you off.
What hits you first is wet violet leaves which quickly dries to form a warm animalic scent. It's a bit like smelling a fresh fur coat, you can smell the fur and the heat from the body of the animal, but with a freshness. the mandarin, that stops it from being too much. This goes as far as many want to go with this fragrance family, but if you want more and you're a fan of a sweaty arse crack then you’ll probably love this - here
It is perfect for this time of year: it stays with you, but doesn't become annoying or dirty. The only thing I’m not crazy about is the packaging. It’s a bit generic for something as interesting as this.”
Left - IDEO Parfumeurs - Tarbouch Afandi - 100ml - £140 Exclusive to Liberty of London