Another year, another crop of prestigious ChicGeek Awards. Fashion years are longer than dog years, crammed full of so much celebrity, business and unpredictability, it feels like a never-ending rollercoaster of stylish ups and downs.
And, what a stylish year 2015 was. This was the year the Apple Watch arrived, Gucci became cool again and the British high-street took over the world. Here’s what TheChicGeek rated for 2015:
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Best Label of 2015 - GUCCI
Creative directors of fashion brands get replaced all the time. They come and go quicker than many football managers, but without as much drama! Historical Italian house, Gucci, was crying out for a fresh injection of ideas for a very long time, but it’s the speed and quality of the turnaround that has made it TheChicGeek’s Label of the Year.
Thanks to Alessandro Michele, the new Creative Director, it completed an 180 degree turnaround into the ultimate geek-chic look of fantasy dressing within one and a half seasons. Gone was the obviously sexual to something that is sophisticated, clever and interesting.
When you’re the world’s second largest luxury goods company and you decide to change this drastically, it has a huge global influence. I was just pleasantly surprised how radical and comprehensive it has been.
His first collection (AW15) of androgyny had many of us thinking "we’ve seen this before", but it’s the subsequent Cruise collections, campaigns and store refurbishments that has cemented this new look of vintage maximalism.
Gucci has become the buzziest label of late and looks set to continue its dominance. Unfortunately, high-street menswear isn’t copying it straight away, but expect to see details and influences in the coming few months. You can always add a simple grosgrain ribbon to your silk shirt!
A double GG belt buckle hasn’t been this cool since the 90s, but this one is in a more delicate font finished in vintage brass.
Gucci has added much needed excitement back into fashion, but there are so many ideas in each collection I’m scared there aren’t enough ideas to go around. Let’s just hope it doesn’t run out of steam anytime soon. I can’t wait to see what he comes up with next.
Best New Label of 2015 - DANIEL W. FLETCHER
Selling designer menswear is a difficult business. Men with deep enough pockets are traditionally conservative and those with the will often don’t have the way. So, any new designer menswear label that appears has to be admired.
A new menswear label that caught my eye was Daniel W. Fletcher. Originally from Chester, the brand was founded shortly after Daniel finished at Central Saint Martins, this year, after studying Fashion Design: Menswear, and his graduate collection was picked up by Opening Ceremony who will be the exclusive stockist of a capsule of 8 pieces from this first SS16 collection.
The collection - Peckham Pony Club - is a reaction to the gentrification and re-development of urban space in London. The writings of Ruth Glass and witnessing first hand the gentrification of London neighbourhoods inspired a collection which aims to capture the essence of the urban gentry which Glass defined.
Peckham, in South-East London, provided a backdrop for a collection which reflects the mix of cultures and styles as a result of socio-economic change, whilst highlighting the effects of regeneration schemes and the displacement of long term residents.
Featuring shaved mink collars, silk pyjama shirts and stretch leggings in a palette of baby blue, white and black, it has a retro-futurism quality with humorous touches with the ‘Peckham Pony Club’ branding. I’m wearing a look in a forthcoming OOTD and it sure beats all those Peckham hipsters in their Barbour jackets.
Best High Street of 2015 - NEW LOOK
After a few false starts, this was the year New Look’s menswear finally made it into the pantheon of men’s British high-street retailers. Menswear became a new focus of their business with 4 standalone men’s stores opening across the UK and another 20 are planned for the new year.
The collections became more trend lead and sophisticated with some of the best suede pieces I’d seen this season regardless of price point.
New Look menswear grew up without losing its youthful side and became a bonafide menswear player in what must be the most competitive affordable menswear market in the world.
As if we weren’t spoilt enough with affordable menswear retailers, in 2015 New Look became another great place to find well-fitted, affordable and fashionable menswear.
Best Grooming Product 2015 - GILLETTE FUSION PROGLIDE FLEXBALL RAZOR
Razor brands often herald something ‘new’ with great fanfare when in fact it’s the same old tired concept in a new colour way or they’ve added more blades. Revolutionary.
Gillette, this year, really did come up with something new and it works.
It’s a simple concept really - a sprung ball that can move up, down and sideways following the different contours of the face.
The FlexBall is a little bit like the Dyson of the shaving world allowing for ease of movement and a close, safer shave.
When the hipsters rediscover shaving again they’ll be pleased to know it’s got a lot easier and more comfortable since they last did it thanks to this.
Best Grooming Brand 2015 - KIEHL’S
American grooming brand, Kiehl’s, seemed to have the most innovation this year. Admittedly, a lot of it was unisex, but it still introduced me to facial oils and leave on overnight masks.
Kiehl’s has cornered the market in that pharmacy stroke skincare brand with attractive stores and simple yet recognisable packaging. They’ve expanded yet still managed to keep it cult.
I also particularly liked the Peter Max psychedelic makeover they gave their packaging for Christmas 2015.
Most Stylish Man 2015 - HARRY STYLES
Harry gets an A for effort. A stylist can take a star to water, but they certainly can’t make them drink. Harry took a tall glass of water, this year, with his floral suits from Gucci and silk pyjama shirts from Daniel W. Fletcher (above).
He’s owning that Saint Laurent/Gucci rocker look that is one part timeless and one part contemporary. It’s a tough ask being the new Mick Jagger, but it needs to come easy especially when it comes to the clothes.
He’s been cleverly distancing himself from the rest of One Direction and using his wardrobe and hair to do this. While not every outfit hits the mark, it’s the experimentation and interest that he gets TheChicGeek recognition for.
Best Fragrance 2015 - DUNHILL ICON
This was an early release in the year. dunhill ICON opens with top notes of Italian bergamot and neroli absolute intertwine with a black pepper, fusing the mid notes of cardamom lavender de Provence.
The dunhill brand was given a refresh by new designer John Ray and this was the first fragrance to complement that. The advertising for this matched the advertising for the main brand. The bottle perfectly reflected dunhill’s art-deco heritage while the fragrance was mainstream yet sophisticated and wearable.
It sits up there with Mont Blanc Legend. A modern classic.
Most Stylish Film 2015 - CRIMSON PEAK
Director Guillermo Del Toro’s spooky, gothic thriller Crimson Peak gets TheChicGeek award because of its attention to detail. While the beginning American section is a little bit Titanic, the rest is a visual feast in high-Victorian gothic.
Costume designer, Kate Hawley, fills the film with late Victorian menswear and while it does take a back-seat to the women’s costumes, it adds to the many layers of this visual feast of incest and gory mass murders.
Best Menswear Collaboration 2015 - MONCLER A
Menswear is suffering from something that I can only describe as ‘Collaboration Fatigue’, right now, so this year wasn’t as perky as it once was in the world of collaborations.
One that caught my eye was Moncler A. A Wes Anderson like exaggeration of logos and colours, Moncler A is tie-up with AMI, founded in 2011 by Parisian menswear designer Alexandre Mattiussi.
Playing with the tricolour palette - red, white and blue - of Moncler, Moncler A was a tasteful and handsome take on Moncler’s outerwear classics.
Special ChicGeek Award 2015 - CILLA BLACK
What’s Cilla Black doing on TheChicGeek Awards, you may ask, but she was instrumental in one of the most exciting periods of British menswear.
Savile Row tailor Tommy Nutter and master cutter Edward Sexton teamed up and opened ‘Nutters’ on Savile Row in 1969, and was financially backed by British pop singer Cilla Black and Beatles’ executive Peter Brown.
She introduced the label to her long-standing friends, the Beatles, three of them are wearing Tommy Nutter on the cover of Abbey Road and others within her pop-star circle.
This was and still is the most influential of 1960s tailors and gave rise to the Peacock Revolution and the huge lapelled and flared suits of the 1970s.
Her friendship and financial support of Tommy Nutter left us with one of the most exciting episodes of 20th century menswear. I bet she has left one of the best vintage collections of Tommy Nutter.
The final part of his lumberjack series, TheChicGeek goes rogue and starts to resemble an axe wielding killer, albeit a stylish one.
Copy his look, but keep it simple, remember, you want to be able to see the wood for the trees!
Get involved - #LumberGEEK
Credits - Coat - Aigle, Check Cardigan - Scotch & Soda, Shirt - Paul Smith, Watch - Swatch, Trousers - Maison Kitsuné, Wellington Boots - Aigle, Bag - Porter
Shot by Robin Forster on OlympusPEN
More images below
Affordable men’s clothes have got so good, recently, that if you’ve got the eye and the inclination you can pick up some of the best menswear pieces for next to nothing.
Left - TheChicGeek previewing Boohoo's car coat at their press preview last spring
My case in point is Boohoo’s men’s AW15 car coat. Women have had this shape for a long time, now, and it works because it elongates the body, making you look slimmer and taller.
Fast fashion brands, like Boohoo, have to come up with so much new product these days that they are continually innovating themselves rather than looking to designer fashion solely for ideas. This was one of the best men's coat shapes, I've seen, of the season and at a bargain price of 30 whole English pounds!
Below - Available now - £30
Making it onto TheChicGeek's Hot List is a pair of made in England trainers. The majority of people would be surprised to learn that there are still manufacturers making trainers in this country.
Bolton to be precise. Norman Walsh make these classy looking trainers for Marks & Spencer's latest AW15 Best of British collection, where they support British manufacturing.
The first casual shoes within the range, they come in this handsome grey colour which look just as good with joggers as with more formal trousers.
Left & Below - Marks & Spencer - Best of British - Trainer - Grey - £99
If Helmut Lang and American Apparel had a lovechild, you’d probably end up with RON DORFF. Born out of the partnership of Jérôme Touron, a Frenchman, and Claus Lindorff, a Swede, RON DORFF is a simple combination of their two last names. Aligning Swedish functionality with classic French elegance, RON DORFF is a new idea of sportswear.
Left - SS16 - VELO LOVE developed together with Lorenzo Martone of MARTONE CYCLING COMPANY OF NY
Basically, it’s basics with a few slogans in a simple typeface and we can never get enough of these post hipster labels.
Offering sweatshirts, hoodies, swimwear, joggers, underwear, accessories and skincare, RON DORFF slogan is DISCIPLINE IS NOT A DIRTY WORD.
RON DORFF constantly collaborates with other designers and together offer exclusive limited editions such as the ‘Innocent Summer Pleasures’ series developed in collaboration with the Swedish graphic artist Johan Oxe and the ûber-light but practical city bike VELO LOVE developed together with Lorenzo Martone of MARTONE CYCLING COMPANY OF NY.
Left - RON DORFF's skincare line is made in Sweden
RON DORFF line of bodycare products is 100% made in Sweden and developed in partnership with Sweden’s most respected skincare brand, FACE Stockholm. The collection includes a shower gel, body scrub, tonifying shampoo and Swedish Massage Oil. The list of ingredients is brief, free of parabens and mineral oils, enriched by active botanicals harvested north of the Arctic Circle. The series also includes an exclusive, scented Swedish Massage candle made in Grasse, France.
Right - The majority of RON DORFF items are unbranded, but come into the slightly pricier bracket for men's basics
They have a Paris flagship store and plan a second in London at the end of this year.
Go bold, that’s TheChicGeek’s 2015 message for eyewear. Make a style statement in thickly rimmed retro style spectacles, this season. Perfect for the current vintage inspired looks, as seen on the catwalks for SS16, and the huge trend for facial hair and fuller hairstyles.
Left - Gucci Menswear SS16
TheChicGeek has complied a scrapbook of his 5 favourite spectacles, available right now from SmartBuyGlasses, and a few special spectacle wearing style icons to give you some inspiration.
Left - Smart Buy Spectacles - Zack
Left - Gucci Menswear SS16
TheChicGeek says, "Think about your favourite TV stars of the 1970s in their oversized frames. The best shapes to go for are the aviator/pilot or thick square or rectangular frames".
Below - Yves Saint Laurent doing his best 1970s safari look, Gucci Menswear SS16
Left - Yves Saint Laurent Spectacles
TheChicGeek says, "Fashion has entered a very fantastical moment full of dress up, patterns and prints. The types of spectacles help finish these eclectic looks".
Left - Elton John
Below - Cazal Spectacles
Left - Gucci Menswear SS16
Left - Yves Saint Laurent
Below - Gucci Spectacles
TheChicGeek says, "Be bold. Oversized frames ooze confidence. They are also fun. Think Elton, Yves and the new look from Gucci".
Far Left - An older Yves
Left - Gucci Menswear SS15
Below - Tom Ford Spectacles
Left - Young Yves
TheChicGeek says, "Spectacle frames reflect your personality. Standout and look confident".
Below - More 70s Yves & Elton
This article is brought to you in association with SmartBuyGlasses
The long and winding road...to the great outdoors sees TheChicGeek entering the forest and facing the elements giant-head on!
Taking style inspiration from those most masculine of woodland figures - the lumberjack - TheChicGeek wraps up in shearling trimmed coats, checked shirts and hiking boots.
Accessorised with an axe, those logs aren't going to fell themselves. Timber!
Get involved - #LumberGEEK
Credits - Coat - Aigle, Bag - Porter, Boots - Diemme, Shirt - Aigle, Trousers - Scotch & Soda, Vest - ABOUT, Hat - Penfield, Watch - Mondaine
Shot by Robin Forster on OlympusPEN
More images below
We’ve all fallen in love with arctic parkas over the last few years and their popularity sees no sign of waning especially when the temperatures really drop. I wanted to introduce ParaJumpers, an American sportswear brand based in the Italian province of Treviso.
Left - Parajumpers - Harris - £942
A meeting with a serving member of the 210th Rescue Squadron in a bar in Anchorage, Alaska provided inspiration for designer Massimo Rossetti to create Parajumpers.
The men of the 210th Rescue Squadron are highly trained for extreme rescues and recoveries in the wildest, most remote and hostile corner of the globe. They are the PJs or Parajumpers. They are better trained than any other military corps.
The result is an extremely innovative outerwear collection, designed to be functional with highly technological components.
Left - Parajumpers Logo
The jackets are made of hardwearing nylon and come with a removable feather-padded lining and a fur-trimmed hood. The collar fastens with a hook used in parachuting. On the front is a large, zippable multi-cargo pocket containing a further three pockets designed for carrying accessories, such as iPods, GPS devices, mobile phones, etc.
The inspiration behind this season's AW15 collection comes from various sources: the extreme, cold landscapes of Canada and Alaska, traditional English woollen garments and Japanese metallic and technological trends.
Left - Parajumpers - Musher - £1158
The Parajumpers motto is “that others may live”.
A cross between a jacket and a shirt, the shacket is that useful menswear transition piece for when you need something more than a sweater, but not a fully blown coat.
A ChicGeek must-have piece of the season, this suede shacket, in a rich blue, has just arrived at New Look. At under £90 and in real suede this is something of a bargain and a sophisticated addition to any man's wardrobe.
TheChicGeek says, "Team it with a roll-neck for a cold day or leave open as a luxury overshirt".
Left & Below New Look - Navy Suede Shacket - £89.99 See TheChicGeek wearing it here
I often get asked via my AskTheGeek section how to remove bobbles from clothes. Well, how about getting a coat that couldn't possibly bobble anymore?!
This beauty from Jigsaw is one of my favourites of the season and a total men's must-have. Made from a large bouclé fabric, it feels like a cross between a jumper and coat: perfect for those days to cocoon yourself against the cold.
Keep things simple underneath, such as here with a polo knit and slim jeans or trousers, and you'll be fine and dandy when it's cold enough to wear it.
Left & Below - Jigsaw - Luxe Bouclé Wool Double Breasted Coat - £298