This week's ChicGeek vlog including a review of the Panasonic iShaper trimmer, Dr Perricone's new CBx For Men range, MMUK Man eyebrow products, new UK label, Eiger Classic & Belvedere Vodka's single estate vodkas.
Daniel Todd, Buyer at MRPORTER.COM
“I am a huge fan of Prada’s knitwear for this fall with my favourite being this Shetland Wool Sweater; it's bang on trend as graphic knitwear is key for the season. Made entirely by hand in Italy, this loud and chunky piece is as much an art form as it is knitwear. An eye-catching jumper not for the faint hearted, I’ll be wearing mine with jeans or corduroy trousers.”
Left - Prada - Shetland Wool Sweater - £1375
“Wanting to purchase a plush pair of feel-good corduroy trousers immediately indicates that autumn is here, time for the shorts to be packed away! My choice is this black number from Our Legacy, made from exceptional fabrication of soft and durable cotton-corduroy, its minimal design is versatile enabling it to be worn with simple knitwear and shirting.”
Left - Our Legacy - Wide-Leg Cotton-Corduory Trousers - £225
“Slogan t-shirts and jerseys have been huge for a few seasons now and continuing into this winter. Featuring a quote from Mr Benjamin Franklin, “Lost time is never found again”, I’ll be sporting this jersey on cold winter days when needing that little extra motivation to get things done.”
Left - Takahiromiyashita Thesoloist. - Printed Cotton-Jersey T-Shirt - £270
“A padded overshirt is a genius alternative to a jacket this autumn from Balenciaga's Creative Director Mr Demna Gvasalia. Quilted and padded for insulation and volume, this piece has to be my favourite must have. Ticking the 90s sportswear trend box, I’ll be wearing mine layered over knitwear with retro sneakers.”
Left - Balenciaga - Oversized Padded Checked Cotton-Flannel Overshirt - £815
“A great coat is essential for winter, after all it’s the item of clothing that you will be seen most in the coming months. My pick of statement outerwear is this double breasted overcoat from Gucci. Crafted from pure cashmere in a timeless shade of tan, this really is one exceptional coat.”
Left - Gucci - Slim-Fit Double-Breasted Cashmere Overcoat - £2840
It was with serendipity, just as the first AW17 shows were coming through, that I walked past the The Cords & Co. stand at Pitti Uomo in January last. I won’t bore with the fashion clichés of corduroy being the cloth of kings or geography teachers, but what you do need to know is that it’s everywhere and the main trend story for AW17.
Left - The Cords & Co aiming to be “the world’s first corduroy brand”
Giving themselves the title of “the world’s first corduroy brand”, this new Swedish brand is hoping to be to corduroy what Levi’s is to denim and you wonder why nobody has tried this before. They probably have, but not within the last couple of decades in my memory.
The Cords & Co is going big, planning to open 6 flagship stores in New York, Paris, London, Los Angeles and Stockholm, - doesn’t say where the sixth one is?! - as well as a global online shop and plus wholesale partners.
Right - The Cords & Co - Cut Poppy Red - £180
“The Cords & Co is created by a passionate group of people united by a shared love of corduroy. By exploring new ways to work with corduroy in our Stockholm design Studio, highlighting its long but little known history, and working closely with a carefully curated group of collaborative partners and cultural tastemakers in each of our flagship city locations around the world, we’re excited to share our unique story of a fabric everyone has a connection to, yet no other brand has dedicated themselves entirely to it,” says Omar Varts, CEO.
It’s about time corduroy got some love. A practical yet smart material, it’s an easy option especially in the simple styles The Cords & Co. are offering. The best look is matching you jacket to your trousers to give you a 70s casual jean-suit feel.
The brand's images are a bit disappointing for a launch, keeping it too simple and I just hope they give the stores more life and branding as corduroy is ripe for personality and Scooby Doo adventures.
Below - The Cords & Co - Trousers - £125
TheChicGeek says, “The first men’s specific range from Dr Perricone, the 3-part CBx range contains a face wash, post-shave product and a moisturiser.
The "CBx" part is a reference to Phytocannabinoids. Phytocannabinoids are non-psychoactive cannabinoids derived from the cannabis sativa plant - but have no ‘recreational’ use. Perricone MD’s phytocannabinoids are extracted from the mature stalk of the fiber-type hemp plant. They are valued for their powerful antioxidant properties and have been used to address a variety conditions such as chronic pain and sleeplessness, as well as skin conditions such as acne.
Left - Perricone MD - CBx For Men - Super Clean Face Wash - £29, Soothing Post-Shave Treatment - £39, Lightweight Moisturizer - £49
These are some of the best products I’ve tried this year. They all feel like quality, while not being overly rich which is sometimes the problem I've had with Perricone's products in the past. They are in the “premium” side of pricing, but these feel like they have the science behind them to make them worth it.
The phytocannabinoids help stressed, excess sebum prone skin feel soothed, healthy and refreshed. These benefits are especially important for men’s skin which tends to be dry and irritated as a result of shaving or frequent exposure to the elements.
The collection features a fresh woody fragrance with a subtle top note of fresh hemp.
You could easily skip the post-shave treatment and just get the face wash and moisturiser if you had to make a choice. This stuff is goooood."
TheChicGeek says, “Let’s just say I’ve waited so long to try this trimmer I’ve ended up looking like a ginger Brian Blessed!
First complaint, why haven’t they put the “iShaper” name on the box? I’m never going to remember “Panasonic ER-GD60” when searching. I’ll be saying, or typing, “it’s like a big silver mascara type wand thingy”, give me a nice name, people, and all over it.
Left & Right - The Panasonic iShaper is an elegant wand-type desig
Secondly, the man on the box. I don’t want to look like the man on the box. Again, grooming companies always use those slightly too stylised black-and-white-classically-lit-barber-shop-haircut-inspo. pictures on their boxes. I want to look natural, not overly groomed. I would say not to put any man on the box, just leave the gadget on there, with the name. Easy.
The reason I wanted to try this was because it looks different, it looks like it should feel substantial and I wanted to like it.
The worst thing about getting a new gadget is all the little bits and the set-up part. This seemed pretty simple. The only thing I hadn’t seen before was the oil for the blades. You simply just add a couple of drops to the blades and then run it for a few seconds.
You can trim and dry shave with this and you can run it under the tap to clean it. There is charge time of 1hour for 50-minute usage and can be used with a cord or cordless.
I like the nice pencil case like travel pouch which makes it easier to pack into your luggage than those large rigid travel cases.
There are 3 ways to use it: without any heads as a shaver - this is pretty simple, but I would suggest, because it is a thin line of blades, you could easily miss bits if in a rush.
A trimmer - this is the best attachment I’ve seen on one of these. It goes on really sturdy, unlike many of those flimsy comb type attachments, and you simply rotate to the correct length. You’re very aware of what you are doing and what length you are on. It looks like an optician’s instrument or a mini axe and I like it.
Then the final option is another head attachment that reduces the size of the blade to give you more control for styling and “design”. The idea of “design” in beards or facial hair always makes me nervous and I have a worry you’ll end up looking like Adrien Brody - which isn’t a good thing btw. When you get the feel of this, you’ll probably not use this again.
Below - The detachable trimming head with rotating length.
Overall, I like it. I feels like a proper tool and very safe. I like the design and, as I said, the trimming attachment design is the best I've seen. The only down side is I think this is more suited to trimming as I think you’d find easy to miss hair when trying to cover the whole face as a shaver.”
Below - Panasonic - i-Shaper ER-GD60 3-in-1 Trimmer - £99
Looking for a new trimmer? See more ChicGeek reviews here
Damien Paul, Head of Menswear, MATCHESFASHION.COM
“High concept streetwear label Cottweiler specialises in covetable sportswear pieces crafted from lightweight technical fabrics. This dark green track jacket with contrasting black and grape panels is the ultimate athleisure statement.”
Left - Cottweiler - Contrast-Panel Track Jacket - £406
“Stella McCartney’s burgeoning menswear offering has gone from strength to strength since its debut last season. For Autumn Winter 17, its knitwear that is a real highlight – this yellow sweater is loop-knitted for a tactile finish and fits to an oversized, relaxed shape – a key trend in knitwear for Autumn Winter 2017.”
Right - Stella McCartney - Crew-Neck Loop-Knit Sweater - £585
“For Autumn Winter 17, Brunello Cucinelli have capitalised on the corduroy trend led, most notably, by Prada. This tobacco-brown pair are impeccably crafted with refined sartorial detailing complete with front and back leg creases – a house-typical tailoring feature.”
Left - Brunello Cucinelli - Slim-Leg Corduroy Trousers - £530
“An unlikely trend to make a comeback is the 90’s belt bag – traditionally worn around the waist the latest iterations are designed to be worn ‘cross body’ front or back. This version by Porter-Yoshida & Co combines Japanese functionality with its multiple internal zip pockets with a refined minimal style on the exterior.”
Right - Porter-Yoshida & Co - Beat Cotton-Canvas Belt Bag - £210
"MATCHESFASHION.COM have partnered with LANVIN to launch a 10 piece exclusive collection for Autumn Winter 17. My pick is this contrast tartan and check long sleeve shirt – the ‘collage’ effect of the two clashing prints is a key tailoring trend this season - making this luxe version the perfect statement piece.”
Below - Lanvin - Contrast-Sleeve Checked Brushed-Cotton Shirt - £495
Burberry has to be admired for trying “See Now, Buy Now” - the new way of showing clothes in-season and making them available straight away to buy after the catwalk show. While many brands have used the term or jumped on the bandwagon, they were truly the only global brand to do it on scale and fully commit.
Left - The recent AW17 Burberry Show in Clerkenwell
Other brands have done capsules, collaborations and the like, but on a much smaller scale. Some are still doing it, while others have dropped it already, but, it’s Burberry who we’ve been watching to see whether it works or not.
Burberry has done a great job at the logistics. The job of getting things in place: to drop the minute the catwalk has finished, unveiling online and in their network of retail stores and wholesale partners.
They’ve experimented with it and while they’ve proved they can get things in the right places at the right time, unfortunately, it doesn't make for great clothes.
We are on the third collection now and they are no way as accomplished as the previous out of season shows. They still have the same Creative Director - Christopher Bailey - who I rate very highly, but it just shows that this way of working, restricted by manufacturing timetables, limits the ideas and collections.
With “See Now, Buy Now” you’re alway working backwards. What can we make in time? Can our manufacturers make that, in the quantities we need, in time? No? Then, next idea.
What can we do? doesn't make for the most positive start to any collection. It’s too restrictive. It just makes for clothes that are basics with little details tacked on. The latest collection, shown a couple of days ago, illustrated this, literally. Chinos with doodles on or a let’s stick a silver/crystal thing on a quilted sweat shirt to jazz it up a bit. It’s not starting from a strong design base. You’re always working backwards.
Fashion collections often come together a few days before a show. Stylists or designers often ask for little pieces or accessorises to help form looks which have a clear voice and message and is what many trends rely upon. They worry about making them afterwards. This isn’t possible with see now, buy now, as it has be all signed off and produced months in advance. Burberry has over 500 shops in 50 countries. That’s a lot of product. Admittedly, the catwalk makes up a small percentage of the business, but it still has to be in the windows etc.
These clothes are also being made upfront. Many brands use a show to gage demand and then order accordingly. You either have a lot of wastage or you’re very conservative in your ordering of the more difficult and interesting pieces. This leads to boring stores and products.
Right - Burberry - White T-Shirt With Crystal Brooch - £495 - See Now, Buy Now isn't making for the best clothes says TheChicGeek, do you agree?
It’s time to ditch see now buy now. Burberry are good at deciding to drop things when they don't work. They tried to go it alone with their beauty offering, but realised things are too tough out there on your own and have now gone in with beauty giant, Coty.
If it’s any consolation, they can be confident to know that if they couldn’t make it work, then nobody could make it work and can be very proud of themselves for trying something that many thought too difficult and didn't even entertain.
Like all new ideas, some are more successful than others. This is one to put down to experience and it's time to let Christopher Bailey do what he does best.
As Christopher Bailey says goodbye to Burberry, read TheChicGeek's Ode To Christopher Bailey - here
A "rip-off" is defined as a fraud or swindle, especially something that is grossly overpriced or an inferior imitation of something. Sound familiar? The two meanings have become somewhat intertwined in the crazy world of modern luxury fashion.
Okay, let’s talk about that cap. Vilified, objectified and chastised, the Burberry check cap has been waiting for its reintroduction since we saw the preview of the Gosha Rubchinskiy SS18 Burberry capsule in St. Petersburg where he’s produced a capsule collection based around the famous beige “Horseferry” check.
Burberry once wanted to distance itself from its famous check, using it instead for discrete linings and the like. But, now it’s back and they’re are trying to champion or own the new chav-chic look dominating fashion. Worryingly, the vast majority of people have missed the Burberry in between - which was rather good.
Left - Burberry - Vintage Check Baseball Cap - £195
Burberry are playing catch up and I put that down to “See Now, Buy Now”, but that’s a whole other #ChicGeekComment.
Anyway, the cap got me thinking. The cap is kinda cool, but not the real one. It’s cool to have the copy, the naff pastiche, the nod to, the rip-off, because ultimately you’re getting ripped off with both.
With the rip-off you’re in on the joke, proud of the made in China label and almost taking the chav-factor to the max. Buying it from a stall on Oxford Street and not a store on Bond Street is truly in the spirit in which the item was intended. You’re playing with it, subverting it and not blinding paying nearly £200 for a cap. #ripoff
The same could be said for the new Dune London “Gucci” loafers. The Gucci loafer really is a classic in the pantheon of fashion, but obviously has been everywhere recently due to Gucci’s huge success. Getting a real pair just feels a bit lacking in imagination.
It’s not even about the money. The Dune rip-off makes you part of the current fashion, but it’s more laissez-faire and carefree and makes you a member of fashion’s great unwashed rather than inspiring to own a piece of footwear inspired by the British aristocracy’s love of horses.
Are those Gucci? No, they’re Dune. There’s something confident about being okay about wearing a rip-off. Just think about all the money you're saving too.
Right - Dune London - Pinocchio - Classic Snaffle Loafer Shoe - £100
As Christopher Bailey says goodbye to Burberry, read TheChicGeek's Ode To Christopher Bailey - here
Guys, listen up. As you’re probably wearing trainers or sneakers, right now, you’ll probably want to know the direction your next pair is coming from. Think of the worst pair you can imagine, double it and then sprinkle on another cup of ugly and you’re there.
Left - Vetements X Reebok Instapump Fury Canvas Trainers - £610 from matchesfashion.com
Gone are those minimal, sleek cup-soles, that have, let’s be honest, had a good run for their money, to be replaced by the fugliest fuckers to hit the pavement.
Right - Raf Simons X Adidas Ozweego III Low-Top Trainers - £285
This is all part of our addiction to bad 90s style and everything of dubious taste. You better start planning the rest of the outfit!
Below Right - Eytys - Angel Low-Top Chunky-Sole Leather Trainers - £265
Below - Nike Air More Uptempo Triple Black - £140
The classic touch of lavender is altered by noble iris, that master perfumers Nathalie Lorson and Olivier Cresp placed at the heart of the fragrance. Combined with smooth, sweet pear and in a subtle nod to the original 1975 release, a patchouli-leather accord structures this new woody floral fougère fragrance.
Left - Gentleman Givenchy - 100ml - £66
TheChicGeek says, “Off we went to Paris for the launch of this and even after two days it still wasn’t sinking in exactly which way around gentleman and Givenchy were arranged. The new fragrance is called Gentleman Givenchy and not Givenchy Gentleman - do you see what they did there? - which is the original 1975 fragrance and, to many, a classic.
Right - Face - Aaron Taylor-Johnson representing the "Gentle Man"
The new version is getting a lot things right: the face Aaron Taylor-Johnson is a good choice. He looks great in the ad. and the commercial, shot by his artist wife, it sees him dancing and looking hot. The bottle is the classic Givenchy shape and the idea of a “Gentle Man” is modern and reflects the change in masculinity over the 40 years since the original.
The main problem I have is, the fragrance smells like everything else. I’m not getting the original here and it’s certainly not memorable. Again, another fragrance not to dislike, but nothing to get excited about either.
With Givenchy’s pedigree they should have reintroduced the original with all its seventies-ness to a new generation and re-owned one of the great male fragrances. Givenchy is a storied brand and they have a respected history, they just don’t use it enough.
They have a new designer, Clare Weight Keller, and it will be interesting if she has any input into the beauty side of the business which has been neglected under the former Creative Director, Riccardo Tisci.”
Left - TheChicGeek giving good "Gentleman" on the red carpet in Paris
Below - TheChicGeek getting his Gentleman Givenchy on in the Eurostar lounge on the way home from Paris