Monday, 08 February 2016 11:12

LC:M Best In Show Grace Wales Bonner

best menswear show lcm the chic geek grace wales bonnergrace wales bonner best show lcm the chic geekA moment. The objective of a fashion show is to convincingly transport the viewer, albeit for a few short minutes, to the place that illustrates everything you want to say about your collection. Recent Central St. Martins graduate, Grace Wales Bonner's journey started the second the African harp began to strum and out strode the models, with glistening faces, in looks that could only be described as somewhere between colonial Africa, the 1970s and modern streetwear.

Featured as part of the Topman sponsored MAN show, during LC:M, Wales Bonner's collection was a beaming dose of heat that brought to mind those sepia style, sunday best pictures of the British Empire. Somewhere in downtown Lagos, circa 1948, somebody was posing with a brass pot plant and portrait of the Queen.

The model's waxed faces made them appear preserved and other worldly, while the clothes were wide and slim in a way only the 1970s can do. Surprisingly fresh and contemporary, tracksuits were delicately decorated with jewels which spoke of her reference highlights and not an obvious note of wealth or bling. But, regardless of the references it looked cool, and that's ultimately what good fashion is.

The standout show of LC:M, for me, Grace Wales Bonner, gave us a perfectly formed escape for a couple of minutes. I can't wait to see what she can give us with a full collection. Roll on SS17.

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Published in The Fashion Archives
Friday, 24 July 2015 16:31

TheChicGeek Meets Zalando

Zalando East Berlin The Chic GeekYouth, beautiful youth, seems to sum up the scene at Zalando HQ. Everywhere you look, young people: sitting outside in the sun on bench tables chatting, inside large, open-plan offices developing new product and organising deliveries and logistics and vast teams styling and producing the content for the website in cavernous studio spaces. 

Left - One of Zalando's many buildings based around East Berlin

Zalando feels like a microcosm of hipster Berlin: the youth of Europe drawn together over the passion of creativity, fashion and design in a mix of tattoos, coloured hair and piercings. But, these young people aren’t restricted to simply the creation side of the business, they run all the way through to senior management and is a reflection of the company’s age having only started in 2008. 

In the space of 7 years Zalando has gone from speculative start-up to a billion dollar business. The biggest fashion e-tailer that nobody, well, those of us in the UK anyway, has heard of, it has grown to be the biggest fashion platform in Europe with sales of over €2.2 billion, last year. Just to give it some context, ASOS turned over £975 million in 2014.

Zalando Berlin Fashion HouseWhile British brands such as ASOS and Topshop looked towards America, Australia and China for growth, Zalando was quietly focusing itself and expanding into 15 European countries and tailoring its offering accordingly.

Right - For the recent Berlin Fashion Week, Zalando opened a 'Fashion House' to showcase product, hold talks and celebrate Berlin as a fashion centre

Based in Berlin, business is conducted in English, so as to unify all 15 markets, making Zalando feel more like a international business based in Berlin rather than a German fashion company. It now sells over 1500 brands with a staggering 150,000 products in markets ranging from Austria to the UK.

Selling luxury diffusion lines, high-street brands and now, a whole collection of own labels, developed for specific customer categories, Zalando is aiming to have everything covered.

I’m here, during Berlin Fashion Week, to see inside the company and how it has developed. I first experienced Zalando’s website a few years ago, and it felt, at the time, like just another European website selling third party brands in not a particularly inspiring way. Fast forward a few years and, now, Zalando is the one of the most important European customers to some of Britain's best and biggest brands and the entry to markets many don’t have retail outlets in or websites directed to. 

Florian Jodl VP Menswear ZalandoDressed, today, in American Apparel T-shirt, Element cuffed trousers and Nike trainers, Florian Jodl, VP Menswear, is in charge of the menswear side of Zalando.

“When I joined - 3 years ago - Zalando was making the transition from start-up to large company. We’re, now, the largest fashion platform in Europe and we cover pretty much the whole of Europe”.

Left - Florian Jodl, VP Menswear, Zalando

What’s made Zalando so successful in what is a tough market to crack?

“Our founding team believed in the e-commerce trend at the right point in time. The drivers of the company that made it successful was the marketing, the logistics proposition - free and easy returns, we have more than 20 different payment methods, large assortment and strong relationships with some of the best brands in the world”. he says.

“How those things came together allowed the company to grow so fast. We focused on the fashion market and invested in our fashion proposition from a content perspective. The main part of the business is being a fashion retailer, but we are adding more and more additional services to the consumer and to the brands we work with. For example, we recently launched, ‘Zalon’, which is a curated shopping service: a stylist picks a selection, then you get a package and keep what you like. We don’t run it in-house, we’ve created a platform where stylists can log on to and work independently on a commission basis.”

Where many international retailers have found appealing to so many different markets difficult, and have often come unstuck, Zalando seems to have flourished.

“We have a very strong localisation mindset. For example, in Italy you have to have cash on delivery payments, in Germany, you have to allow for invoice payments. We have been successful in all these different markets by tweaking our brand marketing and efficient end structures, but, if you over emphasise it you have an extremely complex system”, says Jodl.

The most popular men’s brands are currently Nike, adidas, Converse, Reebok and Levi’s.

“Some men are still very focussed on brands, and there is a group of consumers that just want to be inspired. So, outfits work quite well, for us, particularly for men. We have a function, now, where you can buy everything the model is wearing.

Zalando menswear studio shoot berlin“We see the men’s business accelerating even faster than the rest. When you think of buying fashion, online, it is an attractive proposition for the stereotypical, average guy. You don’t have to go downtown, be in a crowded store, you can order a nice selection of stuff and what you like, you keep. It just took men longer to take the step and try and, now, they’ve tried it, you can see it really picking up,” says Jodl.

Right - Each individual item is shot and physically moved along the creative line to be retouched, described and uploaded onto the Zalando site

I’m taken inside an old factory building in East Berlin that houses the studio where Zalando shoots all the images for the website. Not allowed to take pictures, it is the modern e-tailer factory: a conveyor belt of styling, shooting, retouching, describing and uploading. 

Zalando has recently developed its own range of labels seeing gaps in the market and also higher margins. Menswear features in labels such ‘Kiomi', ‘Your Turn’, ‘Pier One’, ‘Brooklyn’s Own’ and unisex shoe brand called ‘Zign'. The own brands are currently expanding as a percentage of the business with many collections, now, running into hundreds of pieces.

Zalando, while having shipped to the UK for many years, is now turning its attention to us, and particularly menswear, seeing a fashion hungry and lucrative market.

Zalando Fashion House Berlin Week June“One key thing we need to do is build a more focussed assortment as the UK is a very developed and strong fashion market, in the past we probably missed some of the key local brands”, he says.

For Berlin Fashion Week, Zalando curated a ‘Fashion House’ in the centre of Berlin to not only display their product but to inspire and put the flag in the ground for Berlin as a fashion capital and authority. (Zalando recently bought the fashion trade show Bread & Butter, which up until a few seasons ago was one of the biggest street and casual wear trade shows in the world). 

Left - Inside Zalando's 'Fashion House', a pop-up in Mitte during the recent Berlin Fashion Week

They understand that they have to make Berlin relevant in order for them to be taken seriously as a fashion authority. The key to Zalando’s success is its expertise in the markets it operates in. While not only appealing to its customers, it also appeals to other retailers and brands that want the ‘in’ to these potentially lucrative European markets. 

As different parts of Europe come out of recession, Zalando will only increase its dominance and it wouldn’t surprise me if it wasn’t snapped up by somebody like Amazon, or anybody who wants a large and developed slice of the European fashion market. 

Online retailers understand that its their own product which will offer a USP and also better returns. It will be interesting to see whether Zalando's own menswear brands will be picked up by the British male in what is a very competitive and price sensitive market. Watch this space.

www.zalando.co.uk

Published in The Fashion Archives
Monday, 20 July 2015 14:31

#OOTD46 - #BeachGEEK 4/4

The Chic Geek Beach MenswearThe British have always had a very particular look when they hit the beach. Every Bank Holiday it used to be a case of taking one's jacket off, rolling up your trousers, knotting a hanky on your head and paddling up to your ankles, well, it seems not much has changed! 

Stripey windbreak in hand, TheChicGeek hit the shingle in this retro beach look of white wife-beater and pastel pyjama bottoms. Catching up on his reading and admiring the view, TheChicGeek is the geek version of a stick of rock: it runs all the way through him.

#BeachGEEK

Credits - Long Vest Top - Casely-Hayford, Bag - Scotch & Soda, Trousers - Casely-Hayford, Sunglasses - Dita, Socks - Topman, Sandals - Dr Martens, Bracelet - River Island, Towel - Frescobol Carioca, Sun Protection - Clinique, Neckerchief - River Island

Shot by Robin Forster on #OlympusPEN

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The Chic Geek sunbathing men's style

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Published in Outfit of the Day
Monday, 06 July 2015 15:18

#OOTD45 - #BeachGEEK 3/4

The Chic Geek OOTD menswear beach style monochrome

Are you BeachGEEK body ready?! Well, no matter the answer - to be honest, I'm not quite sure what beach body ready means anyway!! - monochrome hides a multitude of sins while being as timeless as a 99 ice cream.

Strip the colour out of your beachwear and look for black and white stripes in various thicknesses. Team with dark sunglasses and matching sandals and you're good to go.

Just don't forget to apply lots of sun protection so you don't get a 'newspaper tan' - black, white and red all over!

#BeachGEEK

Credits - Striped Top - Burton, Bag - Hunter, Swim Shorts - Hentsch Man, Sunglasses - Dita, Socks - Topman, Jelly Sandals - Hunter Gather, Bracelet - River Island, Towel - Scotch & Soda, Bat & Ball - Frescobol Carioca, Perfume - Atelier Des Ors, Day Screen Multi Protection - Clarins, Immediate Moisture Facial Hydrosol - Aesop, Thickening Tonic - Aveda

Shot by Robin Forster on #OlympusPEN

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Published in Outfit of the Day
Tuesday, 09 June 2015 15:45

#OOTD44 - #BeachGEEK 2/4

The Chic Geek beachwear holiday styleForget the summerhouse in the Hamptons, a true geek has a shabby-chic beach hut on the south coast.

Who needs to be beach body ready when you have a rubber ring to disguise your spare tyre?! Just make sure you match it with your T-shirt.

TheChicGeekTip - If you're going bright, at the beach, match colour with more colour.

#BeachGEEK

Credits - Jacket - G-Lab, Shorts - Vilebrequin, T-Shirt - Make Your Odyssey, Hat - Umbro, Socks - Topman, Sandals - Dr Martens, Sunglasses - River Island, Suncare - Clarins

Shot by Robin Forster on #OlympusPEN

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Published in Outfit of the Day
Monday, 01 June 2015 08:59

#OOTD43 - #BeachGEEK 1/4

The Chic Geek beachwear holiday styleDespite being of the ginger persuasion TheChicGeek loves the beach. Armed with his factor 40 and bucket hat, TheChicGeek's beach style is a clash of seaside prints in bold reds and blues.

Spotting a beached dolphin, TheChicGeek does his bit and puts him back into the surf and as a true GEEK, sandals always come with socks.

#BeachGEEK

Credits - Jacket - Casely-Hayford, Shirt - Vilebrequin, Shorts - Vilebrequin, Sunglasses - Retrosuperfuture, Socks - Topman, Jelly Sandals - Hunter Gather, Hat - Umbro, Sun Protection - Clinique, Sea Salt Styling Spray - Murdock 

Shot by Robin Forster on #OlympusPEN

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Published in Outfit of the Day
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