The first ever UK exhibition on the Spanish fashion designer, Cristóbal Balenciaga, and his continuing influence on modern fashion opens at the V&A. The exhibition marks the centenary of the opening of Balenciaga’s first fashion house in San Sebastian, Spain and the 80th anniversary of the opening of his famous fashion house in Paris. 

Left - The man himself, Cristóbal Balenciaga

TheChicGeek says, “While I love the V&A’s Fashion Gallery, the big exhibition space, where Pink Floyd currently is, is usually larger and something to get more excited about. But, this exhibition feels less cramped than previous exhibitions in the space - see Underwear here - and upstairs has a nice, spacious flow.

Balenciaga, as a designer, was serious. Those black voluminous gowns seem to sum up his lack of fun. He feels strict in that Spanish Catholic way, manifesting itself in his designs using lace and the Spanish Mantilla. You don’t get much feel for the man or his personality, but I think that’s how he liked it. He only gave one interview in his life, and that was just before he died.

Left - Known for his elegant volumes, Balenciaga was one of the great couturiers of the 20th century

The name disappeared into the history books when he closed his house and only came back into common culture with its revival around 20 year's ago when Gucci’s parent company, Kering, bought it alongside Stella McCartney and Alexander McQueen.

Downstairs is a collection of pieces, mostly coats and dresses, from his most prolific period the 1960s. These are sculptural clothes for pictures and striking as they are, when they become practical, to enter the real world, particularly the commissions by the rich Americans, they look dated and frumpy. His volumes work on their own, but on people they add bulk and often swallow the wearer. These aren't easy wearing pieces.

Some of his pieces aren’t practical either. The wearer couldn’t sit down or go to the toilet in 'Envelope' dress, for example, but this doesn't detract from its beauty.

This was the golden age of 20th century of couture and while he produced ready-to-wear with his 'Eisa' range, his heart was in his exacting standards and the fine fabrics he used. 

Left - The 'Envelope' dress, 1967, a design you couldn't sit down or go to the toilet in

Balenciaga is more a collection of one-off greatest hits than themed seasons in the vain of Saint Laurent. These weren’t particularly well documented, even though they were huge, between 150 to 200 looks, as the press weren’t allowed into his shows, so the main imagery is striking black and white shoots in the magazines at the time which have entered in the common psyche of 20th century fashion images.

Upstairs is a large display with a varied selection of designers, both old and new, paying homage to the volumes that Balenciaga pioneered. There are a couple of men’s pieces by JW Anderson and Rory Parnell-Mooney to illustrate that his influence isn’t restricted solely to womenswear.

Left - JW Anderson paying homage to Balenciaga with his tulip trousers

There are a couple of pieces from the new Balenciaga, under Demna Gvasalia, who is producing great things and referencing the house while making it feel contemporary. Unfortunately, there isn't a blue Ikea bag in sight!

Balenciaga: Shaping Fashion until 18th February 2018. Admission £12

Published in Fashion
Tuesday, 07 March 2017 13:56

Buyer's Guide SS17 Harvey Nichols

Lara Djandji, Men’s International Designers and Accessories Buyer, Harvey Nichols

menswear picks SS17 Marni shirt harvey nichols“Utility remains a key trend for this season with style cues taken from the uniforms of US correctional facilities. This staple khaki shirt by Marni is an essential buy to update your spring wardrobe, featuring a drawstring hem that adds a sportsluxe twist on the classic shirt”.

Left - Marni – Olive Poplin Shirt - £375

Men's pink shorts Qasimi Harvey Nichols“A new brand at Harvey Nichols this season and one to watch, is Qasimi. These textured shorts in a muted blush, tap perfectly into one of our key trends that sees a softer, more relaxed and effortless way of dressing. Pair with a simple white Tee and tailored jacket to embody the brands uniformity and military influences”.

Left - Qasimi - Blush Textured Shell Shorts - £310

‘“Channel Baz Luhrmann’s Romeo + Juliet this spring with this playful pillar box red Hawaiian shirt from Saint Laurent. Perfect for brightening up your wardrobe and encouraging good vibes”.

Below - Saint Laurent - Red Hawaiian-print Challis Shirt  - £530

floral men's shirt Saint Laurent Harvey Nichols

black men's trousers Wooyoungmi Harvey Nichols“These pressed slacks by Wooyoungmi offer a contemporary take on trousers this season, with a wide leg and cropped silhouette that will give you a modern workwear look. In a black wool blend fabrication these slacks can be dressed up or down, with a smart brogue or sleek trainer”.

Left - Wooyoungmi – Black Wide Leg Wool Blend Trousers - £340

Distressed white trainers Maison Margiela Harvey Nichols“The fashion trainer trend shows no sign of disappearing, so this is the season to invest in Maison Margeila’s Replica model trainers, an iconic style within the sneaker industry. My pick this season is the all-white, brush painted style, for a subversively cool retro street look”.

Left - Maison Margiela - New Replica White Paint-Effect Leather Trainers - £455

Published in Buyer's Guides
Monday, 29 June 2015 14:28

TheChicGeek’s Paris SS16 Scrapbook

menswear valentino souvenir jacket spring 2016menswear louis vuitton souvenir jacket summer 2016saint laurent menswear trend souvenir jacket spring 2016dries van noten souvenir jacket menswearThe last of the cities to show, Paris puts the full stop on the SS16 menswear season. Here is TheChicGeek's lowdown on the trends from Paris:

Souvenir Jackets

If these are the souvenirs then we'd love to see the gift shop! Think Ryan Gosling in Drive.

From Left - Valentino, Louis Vuitton, Saint Laurent, Dries van Noten

 

 

 

 

 

menswear leather shirt valentinomenswear louis vuitton leather shirtmenswear hermes leather t-shirtLeather Shirts

Short sleeved shirts and T-shirts from the softest of skins.

From Left - Valentino, Louis Vuitton, Hermès

spring summer 2016 menswear trends valentino hippy flowersmenswear saint laurent hippy trendHippy

You won't be able to afford to dropout if you buy one of these, but at least people will think you're rich enough to!

From Left - Valentino, Saint Laurent

 

 

 

 

 

  

menswear paul smith oversized blazermenswear raf simons oversized jacket spring 2016menswear dior homme oversized jacket spring summer 2016The Jacket Coat

Too big to be a jacket, too small to be a coat... introducing the jacket coat. 

From Left - Paul Smith, Raf Simons, Dior Homme

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

givenchy menswear jeanssaint laurent denim jeans menswearmenswear valentino denim jeans spring summer 2016valentino denim jeans menswear trends
Denim

Denim gains its place on the catwalk and Paris follows Milan with the commercial trend in anything designer denim.

From Left - Givenchy, Saint Laurent, Valentino, Valentino, Berluti

 

 

 

 

 

 

berluti green men's jacket paris trendshermes green suede mens trousersmenswear paris trends green berlutimenswear trends denim berluti paris

Slime Green

The 'Green Man' always heralded spring and 2016 is no different.

From Left - Berluti, Hermès, Berluti

Published in Fashion