The seeds of denim’s comeback are being sown. Thanks to Raf Simons’ Calvin Klein and his new uptight form of denim, we have a new way to see and wear it.
Left - Wrangler AW18
Bin those skinny jeans and buy yourself a denim shirt with contrasting front pockets, a roll neck and a denim jacket. This is 1970s cowboy in mid-winter.
Right - Calvin Klein AW18
The new AW18 campaign from Wrangler perfectly illustrates this. Brokeback at the top of the mountain, you could say, this all-American, retro look is all about layering relaxed shapes. Denim or corduroy jackets over jeans, check shirts and lightweight roll necks give this cowboy a romantic and wild edge. Think more North Carolina than North Acton.
Just don’t look like it’s your first time at the rodeo!
Left - Calvin Klein SS18
Below - Wrangler AW18
Get more inspiration in the video below. The video reminds me of the 1980s cult in Netflix's Wild Wild Country - here
Regardless of whether you like football or not, they'll be no escaping the World Cup when it starts in Russia shortly. I can't remember how many 'years of hurt' it is now, but, expectations aren't particularly high with regards to the England team. That doesn't mean that I don't care.
Settle down in front of the TV and start shouting, "Come on, England!"
Credits - Cardigan - A Day's March, Shirt - R.M. Williams, Jeans - Paul Smith, Shoes - Base London
With the Russian World Cup coming, or should that be looming?! We're going to get all nostalgic for Panini stickers and short-short football kits. Retro sportswear shows no sign of slowing down in fashion circles and anything branded, or with brand's old logos, is as popular as ever.
Credits - Loafers - Base London, Jeans - Raey, Top - Vintage
Ryan Haynes, Menswear Luxury Buyer, Coggles
“‘All about a clean and simple aesthetic with a slight element of layering. Stick to fresh, primary colours and you can’t go wrong. A wardrobe staple in a classic denim wash which is very versatile.”
Left - Acne Studios - North Slim Jeans Mid Blue - £210
“Really current and cool brand. Sweatshirts are great for layering at this time of year and colour blocking is key.”
Left - Ami - Sweatshirt - £175
“Everyone needs a floral shirt in their wardrobe. Bold, but can be worn both smartly with a blazer or casually for a festival.’
Below -McQ Alexander McQueen - Billy Foral Shirt – £250
“A tan, suede jacket is essential in every man’s wardrobe. Fitting in with the western influence, it is on trend but also timeless in itself.”
Left - Officine Générale - Suede Liam Jacket - £870
“Classics, but the marble sole adds an contemporary and unique twist.”
Below - Axel Arigato - Clean 90 Sneaker - £160
All the pieces are SS18 and exclusive to the newly launched flagship store; Coggles, 52 London Road, Alderley Edge, Cheshire, SK9 7EF
Lara Djandji, Menswear Buyer, Harvey Nichols
“From Raf Simons, SS18 saw the re-launch of key pieces from Joy Division’s ‘Unknown Pleasures’ album and I can’t get enough of the entire collection – my favourite piece being this jacket - it’s the perfect mix between fashion and music. For real fans, we’ve also bought the cap to complete the full look.”
Left - Raf Simons - New Order Oversized Denim Jacket - £1135
“Amiri’s exceptional quality and craftsmanship of each pair of jeans makes it easy and chic to wear them everywhere – from a flight to a night out.”
Left - Amiri - Broken Black Distressed Skinny Jeans - £645
“I love this iconic Dries Van Noten look – it’s so effortless yet still elegant and can easily be worn with the signature boxed shoulder coat to transition between seasons.”
Below - Dries van Noten - Reedley Checked Wool Coat - £1010, Carlton Printed Ramie Shirt - £565, Patrini Checked Wool Trousers - £390
“I love this vintage inspired jacket by Dior. Designed by Kris Van Assche, it references the punk and rave designs of the 70s and 80s, but also makes anyone looks instantly cool.”
Bottom - Dior Homme - Jacket - £490
We haven’t had a big fabric trend in menswear for a while now. Gone are the days when colours or fabrics would become ubiquitous for that season and every store and brand would toe the same line. But, there are exceptions, and corduroy is having a good stab at bringing itself back.
Lead by Prada, corduroy, in all its brushed softness, is perfect when coming in the reds and rusts of autumn. A tactile fabric, corduroy is hardwearing and can flit between casual and smart in all its bookish charm.
I love the fact the Germans called corduroy “Manchester” which was the home of “Cottonopolis” and a major manufacturer of corduroy for many years.
Left - Prada Menswear AW17
Corduroy can add bulk so be carefully when choosing a shape or style. For something cooler and more casual look for jeans jackets with matching trousers. I really like what the Spanish brand Lois are doing.
Below - Good News - Rhubarb Tan High - £60
Left - Lois Jeans - Jumbo Cord Brown Corduroy Jacket - £95, Dallas Jumbo Brown Corduroy Trousers - £65 from Stuarts London
Below - Vetements - Darted-Knee Cotton-Corduroy Trousers - £1200 from matchesfashion.com
Left - Drake’s - Single-Breasted Green Cotton Cord Jacket - £595, Green Cotton Cord Suit Trousers - £255
Below - Junya Watanabe - Cotton-Corduroy Baseball Cap - £130 from matchesfashion.com
Left- Prada - Slim-Fit Leather-Trimmed Cotton-Corduroy Suit Jacket - £1805 from MRPORTER.COM
Left - Jigsaw - Garment Dye Corduroy Button Down Shirt - £79
Below - ASOS - Tapered Cord Trousers In Rust - £30
Left - Marks & Spencer - Straight Fit Corduroy Trousers With Stretch - £35
Jeans are in flux. Okay, that is a bit dramatic, but upstaged by the style and comfort of tracksuit bottoms and the fact that many jeans styles have become way too tight and skinny, it’s time for a new direction.
The ‘Dad Jean’ is deliberately ill-fitting and unflattering and looks surprising fresh. Liberating and, so-bad-they’re-good type of thing, you need the most ill-fitting shape, in the worst wash you can find. You can thank me later!
Okay, these may take a while to get used to, but, ask yourself, how long did it take until you committed to your first pair of skinny jeans?
Think Kurt Cobain.
Left & Far Left - Topman - Blue Cropped Wide Leg Fit Jeans - £40
Weekday - Drift Loose Cropped Jeans Lagoon Blue Wash - £40 from ASOS
River Island - Light Blue Wash Cody Loose Fit Raw Edge Jeans - £45
Who knew Obama was the king of the dad jean?!
Pronounced ‘Loh-wev-eh’, Loewe, is Spain's premier luxury label. Designed by Northern Irish designer, JW Anderson, it is producing some of the most directional and top quality menswear ATM.
This season was inspired by the beach: shells, rope and boats decorated tops, jackets and accessories. Gold leaf on denim brings to mind the warmth of a summer sunset. This shell tote is stunning and a real standout piece. Who said life was a beach?!
Credits - Clothes - Loewe from Matchesfashion.com, Bag - Loewe from Matchesfashion.com, Trainers - Tim Little X Grenson, Fragrance - Bentley Momentum, Cooling Balancing Oil Concentrate - Aveda
Shot by Robin Forster on Olympus PEN
Video & more images below
Yasmin Mehmet, Junior Buyer, MRPORTER.COM
“I was so happy when Orslow launched on MR PORTER, last season! The 107 jeans are a special denim, in a slim fit style which is slightly tapered. They have been crafted in Japan, using premium selvedge and the13.5oz denim has been washed specially to give a two year wear look”.
Left - Orslow - 107 Slim-Fit Washed Selvedge Denim Jeans - £255
“Soft, 50’s style looking checks are key for FW16. This overshirt is a really easy way to get this trend across and finished in a beautiful soft cotton flannel and loose fit, gives the perfect look of contemporary cool”
Left - Our Legacy - Checked Cotton-Flannel Overshirt - £150
“One of my favourite brands, who needs no introduction, is A.P.C. The label’s co-designer Louis Wong has created the perfect sophisticated version of one of our more understated trends for FW16 - velvet. Presented in a classic bomber shape in a lovely midnight blue and finished with a dense ribbed trim, this jacket is crafted with quality and will work well teamed with a simple white tee”.
Left - A.P.C. - Louis W Cotton-Velvet Bomber Jacket - £400
“The best tee ever! American based brand Velva Sheen have been crafting a unique tubular knit technique that eliminates side seams making this the perfect fit. I would suggest having several colourways in your wardrobe”.
Left - Velva - Sheen Rolled Slub Cotton-Jersey T-Shirt - £40
“I was trying to get my hands on a pair of Moscot sunglasses for a while, so was pleased when they launched on MR PORTER, this season. The ’Lemtosh’ style is probably their most classic shape and I like the vintage inspired design. This tortoiseshell pair with the green lens is quite unusual but super cool for FW16”.
Left - Moscot - Lemtosh Round-Frame Tortoiseshell Acetate Sunglasses - £250
If you’ve been taking notes from the latest men’s collection from Gucci, Cruise ’17 to be precise, you’ll have seen that they’ve looked to Britain and our anarchic past and created classically punked denim.
Both - Gucci Cruise '17
I’ve been tempted to bleach some jeans for a while now, ever since a splash back, while cleaning, left an interesting finish.
Below - An original skinhead
Take a pair of jeans that have been languishing at the back of the wardrobe. Look for something slim or tapered. Make it a pair you were going to chuck out, so you’ve got nothing to lose if you don’t like the finish.
Left - Test the bleach on a pair of unwanted jeans so you get an idea of the finish
Don’t use your favourite pair of jeans. Look for a pair where you like the fit, but not the wash or colour.
Left - Stuff the legs with newspaper to control the bleach to one side of the jeans
I’ve gone for an old pair of Lee 101s which have braces attached which only adds to the skinhead look. Im taking the braces off before I start as I don’t want these splattered with bleach.
Get some standard household bleach. You can wear gloves if you prefer.
Lie the jeans out flat in the bath tub or shower tray or do outside. Stuff the legs with newspaper to control the bleach to one side.
Left - Mohicans are optional!
Pretend you're Jackson Pollock and liberally drip the bleach over the jeans.
Left - Use standard household bleach
Let the jeans dry, best left overnight, then do the same on the other side.
Right - The bleach will look a bit green, but don't worry, it's working its punk magic!
Use a bucket to rinse or throw into the washing machine.
If you want a stronger contrast you can use the bleach directly. For something more subtle you can dilute the bleach with water and apply with a sponge.
The longer you leave on the bleach the whiter/lighter it will become.
Left - Hang the jeans on the washing line to dry
It will look a bit sludgy green as though it has been attacked by Slimmer from Ghostbusters. Don’t PANIC. It gets worse before it gets better.
Left - When you've done both sides put them on a cold rinse in the washing machine
Below - Skinhead Geek! You can opt classic skinhead with a Brutus shirt or, maybe, a Fred Perry polo shirt and Dr Martens or you can take inspiration from the Gucci show above
Left - TheChicGeek practising what he preaches and making WWD's street style pictures during LCM