The seeds of denim’s comeback are being sown. Thanks to Raf Simons’ Calvin Klein and his new uptight form of denim, we have a new way to see and wear it.
Left - Wrangler AW18
Bin those skinny jeans and buy yourself a denim shirt with contrasting front pockets, a roll neck and a denim jacket. This is 1970s cowboy in mid-winter.
Right - Calvin Klein AW18
The new AW18 campaign from Wrangler perfectly illustrates this. Brokeback at the top of the mountain, you could say, this all-American, retro look is all about layering relaxed shapes. Denim or corduroy jackets over jeans, check shirts and lightweight roll necks give this cowboy a romantic and wild edge. Think more North Carolina than North Acton.
Just don’t look like it’s your first time at the rodeo!
Left - Calvin Klein SS18
Below - Wrangler AW18
Get more inspiration in the video below. The video reminds me of the 1980s cult in Netflix's Wild Wild Country - here
Denim is having a bit of downtime while it decides where it wants to go after skinny. But, just because denim maybe having a rest, it doesn’t mean leather is.
I saw this a few months ago and at first glance, it’s a classic blue denim shirt, but, on touching and closer inspection, it’s printed leather. Admittedly, that bumps the price up massively - it’s quite an investment - but who else do you know who will be wearing a leather denim shirt?
This is the ultimate in luxury casual.
Left & Below - Tod’s - Leather Shirt - £2650
With the Russian World Cup coming, or should that be looming?! We're going to get all nostalgic for Panini stickers and short-short football kits. Retro sportswear shows no sign of slowing down in fashion circles and anything branded, or with brand's old logos, is as popular as ever.
Credits - Loafers - Base London, Jeans - Raey, Top - Vintage
Ryan Haynes, Menswear Luxury Buyer, Coggles
“‘All about a clean and simple aesthetic with a slight element of layering. Stick to fresh, primary colours and you can’t go wrong. A wardrobe staple in a classic denim wash which is very versatile.”
Left - Acne Studios - North Slim Jeans Mid Blue - £210
“Really current and cool brand. Sweatshirts are great for layering at this time of year and colour blocking is key.”
Left - Ami - Sweatshirt - £175
“Everyone needs a floral shirt in their wardrobe. Bold, but can be worn both smartly with a blazer or casually for a festival.’
Below -McQ Alexander McQueen - Billy Foral Shirt – £250
“A tan, suede jacket is essential in every man’s wardrobe. Fitting in with the western influence, it is on trend but also timeless in itself.”
Left - Officine Générale - Suede Liam Jacket - £870
“Classics, but the marble sole adds an contemporary and unique twist.”
Below - Axel Arigato - Clean 90 Sneaker - £160
All the pieces are SS18 and exclusive to the newly launched flagship store; Coggles, 52 London Road, Alderley Edge, Cheshire, SK9 7EF
Jeans are in flux. Okay, that is a bit dramatic, but upstaged by the style and comfort of tracksuit bottoms and the fact that many jeans styles have become way too tight and skinny, it’s time for a new direction.
The ‘Dad Jean’ is deliberately ill-fitting and unflattering and looks surprising fresh. Liberating and, so-bad-they’re-good type of thing, you need the most ill-fitting shape, in the worst wash you can find. You can thank me later!
Okay, these may take a while to get used to, but, ask yourself, how long did it take until you committed to your first pair of skinny jeans?
Think Kurt Cobain.
Left & Far Left - Topman - Blue Cropped Wide Leg Fit Jeans - £40
Weekday - Drift Loose Cropped Jeans Lagoon Blue Wash - £40 from ASOS
River Island - Light Blue Wash Cody Loose Fit Raw Edge Jeans - £45
Who knew Obama was the king of the dad jean?!
TheChicGeek headed north to experience the renaissance of our great industrial centres. The first stop was the heart of the UK, Birmingham.
Arriving at the new and shiny - quite literally - Birmingham New Street station, TheChicGeek headed to the comfort of the new AC Hotel at the Mailbox development adjacent to the canal.
With more canals than Venice, Birmingham’s Mailbox is a mix of industrial heritage and modern architecture with a recently refurbished Harvey Nichols, shops and restaurants.
TheChicGeek went sporty in his OOTD with a fitted biker jacket in soft suede and new, relaxed dark denim jeans with an athleisure drawstring. Finished off with bright white plimsolls, Birmingham was the perfect eclectic backdrop for TheChicGeek.
Credits - Brown Suede Biker Jacket - ASOS - Flamingo Shirt - River Island, Drawstring Jeans - Replay, Trainers - Muji, Spectacles - Salvatore Ferragamo, Watch - Mondaine
With thanks to AC Hotels Birmingham Mailbox #ACHotels
See Salford Quays
Paris is always the most serious of fashion capitals. Never one for irony or a sense of humour, when Paris does something, it does it with a serious face. That aside, thanks to a few international designers, a few glimmers of fun poked through.
Call of the Wild
Safari, wild beasts, dodos?! Which animal would play you in the fashion Jungle Book?
Left - Louis Vuitton, Valentino, Walter van Beirendonck, Louis Vuitton
No need to shrug those shoulders as your neck disappeared seasons ago.
Putting the gay into 'Gay Paris', Joseph has nothing on this technicolour.
Left - Paul Smith, Lanvin, Balmain, Thom Browne
A new way to do prints. Thinking natural dyes and historical influences.
Left - Dries van Noten
Big Trouser Bulge
Pack everything in.
Left - Givenchy
There is something about this wash which is so wrong yet so right at the same time. Think Dynasty/Dallas denim.
Left - Balmain
If life gives you lemons, then wear yellow?!
From Left - Paul Smith, Hermes
From Left - Off White, Haider Ackermann
Those tails are wagging for this new cropped evening style.
Left - Balmain
(See more from Milan - here)
If you’ve been taking notes from the latest men’s collection from Gucci, Cruise ’17 to be precise, you’ll have seen that they’ve looked to Britain and our anarchic past and created classically punked denim.
Both - Gucci Cruise '17
I’ve been tempted to bleach some jeans for a while now, ever since a splash back, while cleaning, left an interesting finish.
Below - An original skinhead
Take a pair of jeans that have been languishing at the back of the wardrobe. Look for something slim or tapered. Make it a pair you were going to chuck out, so you’ve got nothing to lose if you don’t like the finish.
Left - Test the bleach on a pair of unwanted jeans so you get an idea of the finish
Don’t use your favourite pair of jeans. Look for a pair where you like the fit, but not the wash or colour.
Left - Stuff the legs with newspaper to control the bleach to one side of the jeans
I’ve gone for an old pair of Lee 101s which have braces attached which only adds to the skinhead look. Im taking the braces off before I start as I don’t want these splattered with bleach.
Get some standard household bleach. You can wear gloves if you prefer.
Lie the jeans out flat in the bath tub or shower tray or do outside. Stuff the legs with newspaper to control the bleach to one side.
Left - Mohicans are optional!
Pretend you're Jackson Pollock and liberally drip the bleach over the jeans.
Left - Use standard household bleach
Let the jeans dry, best left overnight, then do the same on the other side.
Right - The bleach will look a bit green, but don't worry, it's working its punk magic!
Use a bucket to rinse or throw into the washing machine.
If you want a stronger contrast you can use the bleach directly. For something more subtle you can dilute the bleach with water and apply with a sponge.
The longer you leave on the bleach the whiter/lighter it will become.
Left - Hang the jeans on the washing line to dry
It will look a bit sludgy green as though it has been attacked by Slimmer from Ghostbusters. Don’t PANIC. It gets worse before it gets better.
Left - When you've done both sides put them on a cold rinse in the washing machine
Below - Skinhead Geek! You can opt classic skinhead with a Brutus shirt or, maybe, a Fred Perry polo shirt and Dr Martens or you can take inspiration from the Gucci show above
Left - TheChicGeek practising what he preaches and making WWD's street style pictures during LCM
If only Andy Warhol was alive today to see the rise of the selfie. A pioneer of self promotion, the king of pop art knew exactly the power of his own image.
TheChicGeek, on the other hand, has become a pop icon in the men's bloggersphere, thanks to his stylish persona. The coolest geek in town, he knows exactly how classic and chic a black leather jacket, Breton striped top and denim jeans can be.
Never one to shy away from the camera, watch as The Chic Geek turns himself into a work of art.
Credits - Leather Jacket - H&M, Top - Scotch & Soda, Jeans - Energie, Watch - Hammond & Co., Sunglasses - Police, Socks - The London Sock Co, Trainers - Converse, Wallet - Jigsaw
Shot by Robin Forster on OlympusPEN
With thanks to Sonsoles Print Studio, Peckham
More images below
American jean and lifestyle brand, American Eagle Outfitters, challenged TheChicGeek to keep a #AEOJeanJournal, this week, wearing a piece from their SS15 jean collection every day.
Offering 18 fits and 69 different washes of jeans, TheChicGeek was spoilt for choice. The in-store denim expert was there to suggest the perfect pair for TheChicGeek and here is how his week unfolded:
Watch TheChicGeek adventures on social media by following #AEOJeanJournal
Make your own Jean Journal - Would you like to WIN £200 to spend at American Eagle Outfitters? Check out TheChicGeek's competition here
Day 1 - Double Denim
Feeling a touch of nostalgic double-denim, TheChicGeek started the week in a pair of skinny paint splattered jeans and washed denim jacket. Practical with its multiple pockets, it's the perfect jacket to wear with or without jeans.
Day 2 - Preppy Picnic
On his second day, TheChicGeek paired a preppy pair of putty skinny American Eagle Outfitters jeans with a fresh white shirt and classic plimsolls for a spot of alfresco dining. He was just careful to avoid those grass stains!
Day 3 - Casual Wednesday
Perfect with a simple T-shirt and hoodie, everything is easy with these jeans. The skinny shape isn't too tight, while American Eagle Outfitters offer a super skinny fit for those geeks who want their jeans even more fitted.
Day 4 - Sports Denim
Post workout, TheChicGeek gets a well deserved refreshment break after leaving the sports field by throwing on his trusty American Eagle Outfitters washed denim jacket.
Day 5 - Dressy Denim
The final day and TheChicGeek is smartly dressed with a pair of black skinny American Eagle Outfitters jeans. Dress these up or down, black jeans are ideal day or night.