From the frow to standing at the back! TheChicGeek was all over the recent menswear shows at London Collections: Men. Here are the trends that caught his eye:
Copper - That highlight orange has become slightly dirtier and more grown up.
From Far Left - Craig Green, Katie Eary, Hopman Design, Oliver Spencer
Grunge - Nobody’s ever made money from selling grunge, it’s kind of the point, no?
From Far Left - Topman Design, Burberry, J.W. Anderson
Neck Scarves - Double knot it for accessory impact.
Both Margaret Howell
Soft 70s Teddy Bear Hair - Layers, Bowl Cut, or simply ask for an 'Abigail's Party' next time you're at the barbers.
Below From Left - Lou Dalton, Burberry
Cropped Mid-Driff - Not since Mark Owen in the Relight My Fire Video have I been this excited about the male midriff. AW16's new, chilly erogenous zone!
From Far Left - Agi & Sam, Astrid Andersen
Inside Out Sheepskins - You could just turn last year's inside out, but it probably won't look as good!
From Far Left - Coach, James Long, 1205
Sequins - These were dress-down sequins on sportswear and simple tops.
Burberry, James Long
Silk - Menswear bedroom eyes with luxurious plain or printed silks in bedroom shapes.
Below - Katie Eary, Topman Design
In a quiet industrial estate, off a nondescript North London suburban street, sits Albion Knitting Co. Not some relic from the 60s or 70s, that, somehow, managed to survive, but a new venture, with state-of-the-art machines, producing for some of fashion’s biggest names, all proudly made in glamourous Haringey.
Left - Welcome to Albion Knitting Co.
I was invited down by American brand, Peter Millar, to see where some, not all, of their knitwear is made. Producing between 5,000 to 10,000 garments, a year, for Peter Millar, the factory opened in 2014 and also produces knitwear for luxury brands such as Chloe, dunhill and Nicole Farhi.
Right - The feature staircase inside the North London factory
Left - The stairs on the staircase features old pieces of knitting hardware
Knitting, washing and finishing takes place here by the 20 strong workforce. An example of skills and production returning to the UK, from abroad, the whole environment is very open and features a stunning metal staircase with steps incorporating old pieces of knitting hardware.
Right - A final AW16 look from Peter Millar
If you haven’t heard of Peter Millar before, the Richemont-owned men’s brand is busy expanding into the UK. Known for golfwear and currently available at Harrods, they have aspirations to take a chunk of Zegna’s market in that stylish, but won’t scare-the-horses-type of mature menswear. Making in London is certainly a start. If the label says 'Made in England' then the Peter Millar garment would have been proudly made by Albion Knitting Co.
A moment. The objective of a fashion show is to convincingly transport the viewer, albeit for a few short minutes, to the place that illustrates everything you want to say about your collection. Recent Central St. Martins graduate, Grace Wales Bonner's journey started the second the African harp began to strum and out strode the models, with glistening faces, in looks that could only be described as somewhere between colonial Africa, the 1970s and modern streetwear.
Featured as part of the Topman sponsored MAN show, during LC:M, Wales Bonner's collection was a beaming dose of heat that brought to mind those sepia style, sunday best pictures of the British Empire. Somewhere in downtown Lagos, circa 1948, somebody was posing with a brass pot plant and portrait of the Queen.
The model's waxed faces made them appear preserved and other worldly, while the clothes were wide and slim in a way only the 1970s can do. Surprisingly fresh and contemporary, tracksuits were delicately decorated with jewels which spoke of her reference highlights and not an obvious note of wealth or bling. But, regardless of the references it looked cool, and that's ultimately what good fashion is.
The standout show of LC:M, for me, Grace Wales Bonner, gave us a perfectly formed escape for a couple of minutes. I can't wait to see what she can give us with a full collection. Roll on SS17.