I’m not going to lie, photographer, Glen Luchford’s, name wasn’t in my style vocab. until he teamed up with Alessandro Michele for the recent maximalist makeover at Gucci.
Left - Making minimalism sexy in Prada's 1997 campaign
When you don’t read glossy magazines, anymore, it becomes more difficult to learn and credit the images with the photographer, even though he’s been working way before the digital revolution.
It turns out the British-born photographer produced one of my favourite images of the 90s. Model, Amber Valletta, slouched in a boat for Prada's 1997 AW campaign was a seminal image. It heralded the start of minimalism. A new sexy and seductive minimalism and the start of Prada entering the pantheon of luxury brands.
I remember seeing it take up a full double-page spread of the broadsheet newspaper I was reading at the time and it was part of my awakening to fashion and the power of fashion images. It was the end of 1997 and luxury fashion was on the cusp of reaching into the mainstream of people’s lives and this image seemed to define the introverted sexuality of the time.
Fast forward nearly 20 years and Luchford has gone to the other end of the fashion spectrum by teaming up with Gucci’s new Creative Director and giving the great clothes Gucci are producing the life and context needed to really lose yourself in the OTT images.
Right - Tom Hiddleston in the latest AW16 Gucci Tailoring campaign
Each campaign has continued to develop the Gucci fantasy of symbols, colour, print and geek-chic sophistication. From peacocks to flamingos to chickens to Afghan hounds, Luchford’s images are a menagerie of people and interiors too. This is the age of dress-up: a clashing of influences and inspiration, Luchford's campaigns are a lesson in richness while feeling light and not being the sole preserve of money, but an eccentricity in taste.
In the age of Instagram, producing images that make you stop and pause is getting harder and harder. It helps that I like the clothes, yes, but these images are really defining this moment in fashion and style.
Below - Shot at Chatsworth and starring actress, Vanessa Redgrave, the new Cruise 17 Gucci campaign
The new Cruise campaign - below - has a Pre-Raphaelite busyness that would satisfy the most fussy of kleptomaniac Victorians. And, this brings us full circle to the Prada image - above - even though the time was 90s minimalism it could have just as easily been inspired by Millais' Ophelia or Waterhouse's Lady of Shallot. It's not just beautiful, it's also clever.
Mats Klingberg, TRUNK founder
"I’ve been a big fan of Begg & Co and their washed Kishorn cashmere scarves for several seasons, now. The wash gives them a nice and fluffy finish which nicely adds some texture to any outfit. The Kishorns generally come in lots of nice solid colours, only, so I was very pleased when I came across this Kishorn woven in a khaki/camel block medley pattern”.
Left - Begg & Co - Kishorn Scarf Khaki Block Medley - £270
"The Gigi keeps going from strength to strength and it’s always a joy to visit their showroom to discover what they’ve created for next season. We’ve got lots of nice things from them this season, but I particularly like this heavy knit cardigan jacket. Will look great with a Trunk Oxford shirt and a pair of chinos or jeans paired with a chukka boot from Alden or sneaker from Common Projects”.
Below - The Gigi - Chunky Knit Jude Jacket Green - £355
"Our bag selection in Trunk LABS has this season seen the addition of this great bag from Nanamica, made in Japan, from an ultra-durable cotton Cordura fabric. The bag can be carried in three ways - as a backpack via the foldaway straps, as a briefcase by its side handle, or as a messenger bag. The bag has a main roll-top compartment, with large zip pockets on the front and back, each containing a system of handy dividers. A highly functional bag, it provides ample room and organisation for anything you might need to carry with you on a daily basis. What else do you need?”
Left - Nanamica - 3 Way Cordura Briefcase Khaki - £410
"A pair of Alden’s is the perfect match with any smart casual look, so works equally well with a pair of flannel trousers, chinos or jeans. I need a new pair of chukka boots, so am definitely getting a pair of these for myself this season”.
Below - Alden - Unlined Chukka Dark Brown Suede - £475
"Most of the brands in Trunk I’ve discovered on trips near and far and when I went to Vienna, last year, I came across WienerBlut for the first time, a fragrance brand from Vienna created by the very talented Alexander Lauber. I think the bottles are beautiful and thankfully its content matches the outside. A subtle, slightly spicy fragrance, Ex Voto comprises key notes of pink pepper, nutmeg, santal and ambergris”.
WienerBlut - Ex Voto - £130
There are two types of Britishness: urban London Britishness, which is too often clichéd and touristy, involving bowler hats, red telephone boxes and the like, and, then, there's the Britishness of the countryside, which comprises of green rolling hills, National Trust properties with colourful herbaceous borders all soundtracked by the theme of The Antiques Roadshow.
Left - The not-so-secret garden at the entrance of Burberry's pop-up Makers House
The British countryside is basically a giant garden dotted with the history of people aiming to perfect their little corner of it and that's why we all love to be tourists in it, regardless of where we are from.
And, it is this Britishness that Burberry has mined for its latest show and show space, which has been opened to the general public for a week afterwards and is called Makers House.
Right - Makers are gonna make. The day I went it was bookbinding
Located in the old Foyles book store on Charing Cross Road, on the edge of Soho, Burberry has teamed up with British craft collective, The New Craftsmen, showcasing their hand-working skills, making everything from tassels to keys to scissors. There are different people displaying different skills, on each day, creating theatre in the bottom of the space.
Just to be clear, these people didn’t produce anything for the new Burberry collection, but it’s an illustration of the type of skills involved. I guess Burberry needed huge volumes and a long lead time if they were able to be the first brand to fully deliver their new ‘See Now, Buy Now’ concept worldwide, all at the same time, both offline and online.
Left - One of the standout pieces of the menswear show
You can buy their products in a small shop here, but I think Burberry missed a trick by not including a few of their own products. Maybe a few of the classic pieces.
Right - A print taken from the V&A archive and used in the collection and on the show seating
Alongside them is a pop-up branch of Thomas’, the Burberry café from Regent Street, which has to be one of the best of the big brand versions of this type of thing, offering seasonal British fare all served on British made tables and chairs, and in this case, leading onto a garden of white busts and classical plaster casts contrasted with lush green planting that welcomes you at the entrance.
It’s like Daylesford Organic has comes to Soho, hostas and all, in this mix of Virginia Woolf’s Orlando, Nancy Lancaster’s decorating skills, (she was the owner of Sibyl Colefax & John Fowler), and a celebration of the great and good of British history all lined up like a friendly who’s, who. I feel like we may have been given a glimpse of Christopher Bailey’s Yorkshire lifestyle. He has to spend all those millions somewhere after all. This is the fantasy perfection of British country living that we never seem to tire of and one which Burberry has used as inspiration before such as Charleston in Sussex or gardening at Sissinghurst.
Left - TheChicGeek on the poetry staircase doing his best Rapunzel impression!
Upstairs, where the catwalk show was, 83 mannequins show off the full collection of men’s and women’s wear, 250 pieces in total, where you can look at the details and touch the fabrics. Everything is available now, if you can afford it, and the collection was Bailey’s usual strong balance of wearability and fashion. Think artist-like relaxed shirts with ruffled collars and cuffs interplayed with brocade and cropped shearlings and slouchy trousers. I particularly like the orange/biscuit coloured shearling and 30s style printed pyjama shirts. The green carpet design was taken from a garden print from the V&A.
Right - The Tudors are back! Taking the ruff with the smooth
Burberry took a risk on the ‘See Now, Buy Now’ concept, but I think they’ve pulled it off. Unlike other brands, this show season, who have made it a token gesture to gain attention and PR, this is full on and took some organisation. I guess many items had to be comprised or changed to fulfil the tight delivery dates, but it doesn't show.
Left - Pieces of Michelangelo's David looking over his shoulder while a sculptor builds up his clay maquette
I like the way it’s been opened up to the public. You spend all that money on the show space, you may as well as justify it by making it customer facing, especially now they’re selling the items straight away. I can’t wait to see how they will top this in February.
Many other luxury brands will be watching this enviously and wondering whether they could or should do the same.
Right - Nancy Lancaster's bed from her house, Ditchley Park
In a post-brexit world I think Burberry should take this whole concept on a world tour. Tokyo, Shanghai, and Mumbai would relish this little outpost of Britishness, pots plants and all. We have to remember there’s a big world outside of London.
Burberry Makers House Open Until 27th September 2016, 1 Manette Street, London, W1D 4AT
How many of these great British figures can you name?
This major exhibition at the V&A will explore the era-defining significance and impact of the late 1960s upon life today. From global civil rights, multiculturalism, environmentalism, consumerism, computing, communality to neoliberalist politics, the world we live in has been vitally influenced by five revolutionary years 1966 – 70. You Say You Want a Revolution? Records and Rebels 1966 – 70 will investigate the upheaval, the explosive sense of freedom, and the legal changes that took place resulting in a fundamental shift in the mindset of the Western world.
Left - Examples of 60s fashion including this striped suit by Mr Fish
TheChicGeek says, “What a trip! We can never get enough of the sixties; a decade we look back at so fondly and one that defined modern Britain and revitalised London. The Victoria & Albert Museum certainly know where the money is these days: the baby-boomers who have all the time and leisure can reminisce here and let the memories come flooding back, or not depending on how hard they went for it during that decade.
Right - The moves like Jagger! Ossie Clark's velvet jumpsuit for Mick Jagger
Tuning in and dropping out was for the wealthy, but we won’t let that spoil a good story. What makes this exhibition is the headphones and the soundtrack. Much like the Bowie exhibition before it, it allows you to be fully immersed and get lost in the sights and sounds of the decade.
Left - Two of the Beatles suits from the Sgt Pepper's Lonely Hearts Club Band album cover
There’s nothing here that is particularly new, but it’s so well put together it’s a bit like watching a favourite film: you know what is going to happen but you still love it. From Carnaby Street to Vietnam to Black Power to Woodstock and finally Lennon’s Imagine, the exhibition looks at the idea of challenging the establishment and looking for alternative ways of thinking and living, many of which still resonate today.
Right - The Woodstock area features fake grass, bean bags and costumes and footage from the 1960s most famous festivals
There is plenty of menswear here too. From Mr Fish to Ossie Clark’s jumpsuit for Mick Jagger and Jimi Hendrix’s festival costumes.
I can’t recommend this exhibition enough. I think it was the longest time I’ve ever spent in a V&A exhibition. There is so much to look at and read, plus the headphones really allow you to zone out and tune in!”
Left - The jacket John Lennon wore in the Imagine video
Prada was once one of the coolest brands. Twice a year, I’d eagerly await each Milan show for that sophisticated yet intellectual take on beautiful men’s clothes. They’d always be something new and clever, which sometimes took a couple of months to sink in, and defined this intelligent type of dressing.
Unfortunately, not everything lasts and this has disappeared from the label which hasn’t been updating as quickly as they used to. It’s like Miuccia has left the building, but then maybe that’s what happens when you become a fashion billionaire?
Anyway, they’ve realised that in order to slow their drop in sales they need to get online and they’ve just gone on to MRPORTER.COM. This cardigan is a standout for all it’s ‘children’s-tv-presenter-rainbow-realness’. It’s something a crazed aunt would knit for you as a child and something that would quickly become your favourite and return to year-after-year. It's hand-knitted in Italy from Shetland wool and is basically a smile in a cardigan.
Left & Below - Prada - Intarsia Shetland Wool Cardigan - £1130
Damien Paul, Head of Menswear, MATCHESFASHION.COM
"This unique and ground-breaking collaboration between Yohji Yamamoto and adidas has now been running for over a decade, and the product continues to resonate well for our customers. My favourite style for this autumn is the 'Qasa' high top trainer – the detail is minimal and subtle and these will work well with a cropped trouser and sweatshirt".
Y3 - Qasa High-Top Trainers - £260 Buy Now
"OAMC stands for Over All Master Cloth and is new to MATCHESFASHION.COM this season. The collection encompasses the sweet spot between contemporary and sportswear influence and is lifted by a refined finish and attention to detail. I like this navy sweatshirt as it is has a slim silhouette which can work well when worn with smarter trousers, and it is elevated with a detachable feather charm".
OAMC - Feather Charm Crew Neck Sweatshirt - £225 Buy Now
"Another new label for us, Malle is London based and began with the intention of creating superior, British made motorcycle luggage. The collection has now evolved and this pannier shoulder bag is absolutely functional, and is very masculine. In oiled canvas with black bridle leather trim I like that the roll-top closure allows you to expand the size of the bag as you require".
"Italian design house Marni often deals in unexpected proportions and off-kilter silhouettes, which I personally love. These trousers are more refined, and whilst they are cropped, they have a classic, straight cut, with a single pleat at the front. In navy wool-twill they are what I call and investment purchase as they will work both on and off-duty, and will add elegance even to low key weekend dressing".
Marni - Single Pleat Wool-Twill Trousers - £505 Buy Now
"Exclusive to MATCHESFASHION.COM Raey has very subtle, cool handwriting – the sort of pieces that slot into any man’s wardrobe and become firm favourites… I like this oversized bomber for autumn as it nods to sportswear but is in Prince of Wales check, one of the most traditional fabrications in English heritage".
Raey - 1970s Zip Through Houndstooth Checked Jacket £495 Buy Now
Raf Simons’ long-term collaboration with Fred Perry has been one of the most successful, in brand and creativity terms, in menswear. Started in 2008 and, now, in its 14th collection, this tie-up was the perfect twist on Fred Perry without being dominated by a designer.
Every season Raf Simons knew exactly how to had a new spin on the classic Fred Perry DNA without it being too themey or over designed. I still have a black knitted polo shirt from the first collection.
Now, he’s been made head of Calvin Klein - Read TheChicGeek’s thoughts here - I wonder if this collaboration will finish. He’s going to be a busy bee turning around that fashion juggernaut.
I really like this polo shirt from the new collection. It’s one part retro Northern soul with the stripes, but clean enough to feel fresh and contemporary. You almost want the stripes to be lurex to give it that Gucci feel. This could be Raf’s last collection for Fred Perry, so get it while it lasts.
Left & Below - Raf Simons Rib Insert Pique Shirt - £95
One of the most successful British luxury labels of the last few years, Anya Hindmarch, has just introduced a men’s collection.
"Men started wearing our product so the menswear line really launched itself,” says Anya Hindmarch.
This bag, in the ‘Walton’ shape, is a men’s style from the Anya Hindmarch Bespoke collection and is, now, available, in this bold red, with her humorous Men at Work symbol.
A symbol usually associated with hold-ups, Men at Work seems apt on a formal briefcase, making it light-hearted and showing you have a sense of humour, even in the most serious of meetings.
Now, where do I get a Geek at Work version from?!
Left & Below - Anya Hindmarch - Men’s Men at Work Walton Briefcase - £1495
The Chic Geek talks about his week in men's style including his lack of love for Vetements & Yeezy, Anya Hindmarch's new men's range, the Fossil Q Founder Smartwatch, UTC00 accessories & That So layered sun protection.
I'm not bored of new Gucci, yet! While I’m a fan of the decorated silk bomber or souvenir jacket, it’s time for something different and more seasonal as we start to move towards autumn.
This jacket features the Gucci hallmarks of decoration and the bird of prey is perfectly proportioned at the back. The cropped and fitted style makes this feel younger and more contemporary than an average tweed jacket and is the perfect item to take you right up to Christmas.
Left & Below - Gucci - Bird-appliqué houndstooth wool jacket - £1850 from Matchesfashion.com