Grooming Opinion
Father’s Day Fragrance – What’s New?
Lacoste L.12.12 Noir
The latest addition to the L.12.12 range of fragrances named after the famous Lacoste polo shirt. Noir is a woody aromatic said to be inspired by the intensity of warm summer evenings and the timeless elegance of the above polo shirt. A classic fougere fragrance containing top notes of watermelon and Egyptian basil along with a heart of lavender and verbena. A dark chocolate accord along with cashmeran, coumarin and patchouli are revealed in the base.
This fragrance features a patented new technology – Cyclodextrin – an innovative molecule which encapsulates the fragrance ingredients and reactivates them when it comes into contact with moisture on the skin.
TheChicGeek says “This is surprisingly good. The fragrance has an attractive warmth that is mellow and refreshing at the same time. This is one of those fragrances that men will enjoy wearing. While there is nothing revolutionary here, it is a good example of a mass produced fougere fragrance.”
Best For – Young, Sporty Dad
Lacoste L.12.12 Noir - 100ml - £47
Uomo by Ermengildo Zegna
Developed by Spanish perfumer Alberto Morillas, Ermengildo Zegna’s new Uomo fragrance combines classic ‘Zegna Bergamot’ – grown at the label's grove in Calabria - grassy vetiver and cedarwood with a shot of violettyne captive - an intense violet extract.
TheChicGeek says “This is a fresh, citrus fragrance with just a hint of the violet. The initial, top hit of fragrance is really clean and slightly addictive while the dry down does disappoint to a mediocre vetiver/woody base.”
Best For – Dapper Dad
Uomo by Ermengildo Zegna - 100ml - £60 - Exclusive at Boots
Salvatore Ferragamo Acqua Essenziale
Inspired one of the four elements – water – Acqua Essenziale contains notes of mint and lemon tree leaf along with heart notes of geranium, rosemary and cascalone – a molecular aquatic note. The base of patchouli and vetiver, alongside Helveltolide – a new floral musk. The nose again is Alberto Morillas.
TheChicGeek says “This has a unusual but attractive synthetic smell. The cooling of the mint and cascalone is there, along with warmth of lavender. It’s pleasant and masculine and a definite reminder of water, but I think a fragrance needs a little more personality if it is to standout in today’s crowded marketplace.”
Best For –Holiday Dad
Salvatore Ferragamo Acqua Essenziale – 100ml - £58
DSquared2 – Potion For Man Blue Cadet
A follow-up to the original Potion by fashion duo DSquared2, Blue Cadet is an aromatic, woody fragrance with key notes of bergamot, mandarin, pine, blue hemlock, cedarwood and musk. Created by perfumer Mathilde Bijaoui.
TheChicGeek says “This has a cooling metallic smell whose woody and fresh heart of pine leaves and various other forest ingredients are lifted by the citrus top.”
Best For – Gay Dad!
DSquared2 – Potion For Man Blue Cadet – 100ml - £54
Aramis Perfume Calligraphy Rose
Aramis’ new Perfume Calligraphy Rose is the latest in a collection focused on Harrod’s Middle Eastern customer. Containing intoxicating rose absolute, this is an ingredient which isn’t as feminine as you would first think – Click here
The fragrance opens with golden accents of saffron, combined with wet honeysuckle petals, energized by the modern freshness of oregano leaves. To reveal the wild beauty of the Turkish rose absolute, the luxurious heart develops captivating vapors of myrrh and styrax, contrasted with a layer of French lavender. The background creates an aura of mystery and irresistible seduction: a soft hypnotic veil of labdanum and musk is combined with the tantalising power of ambergris and olibanum to create a delightful trail of undeniable magnetism.
TheChicGeek says “This isn’t for shrinking violets, nor is it too overpowering that it’s unwearable. We’re seeing more and more of these style of fragrances, so it will be interesting to see whether it makes it into the mainstream. For those who like something a bit exotic and rich, this should do the trick.”
Best For – Exotic Dad
Aramis Calligraphy Rose - 100ml - £115 - Exclusive to Harrods
Bulgari MAN Extreme
Bulgari MAN Extreme is an update of the original Bulgari MAN fragrance. It is a fragrance that melds Mediterranean freshness, a heady woodiness and an oriental touch, said to evoke Rome’s vitality and strength, according to the blurb.
An aroma of vegetal and zesty top notes such as pink grapefruit, Calabrian bergamot and cactus pulp that create a tingling olfactory experience, one that bursts with energy. At the heart, a distinctive floral masculine vibe released by a fusion of white freesia, Guatemalan cardamom and vegetal amber, accented by a luminous trail of reassuring earthy notes such as balsa wood, Haitian vetiver and Laotian benzoin that add an oriental warmth and radiance to this special scent.
Another one produced by perfumer Alberto Morillas, he says “At the heart of this is cardamom, which I personally watched grow, and that gives the fragrance a white, immaculate, and very masculine dimension. When integrated into the fragrance it instantly evokes the openness of a landscape that stretches out into infinity. Masculinity requires a slightly ambiguous strength so we chose freesia because of its freshness, unconventional appeal and the immediate clarity it brings. The challenge of this fragrance was to find a new freshness in this quintessential Bulgari signature”.
TheChicGeeks says “The floral here has a cold freshness which lends itself towards the masculine. Thumbs up Roman Emperor style for this one.”
Best For – Gladiator Dad
Bulgari MAN Extreme - 100ml - £60.00
Yves Saint Laurent – L’Homme Libre – Cologne Tonic
This is limited-edition, woody-aromatic fragrance, created by Olivier Polge, opens with sparkling notes of Primofiori lemon, carried on an aquatic wave spiced with a shiver of pink pepper. The heart contains violet Leaves and aromatic basil. The heady, woody imprint of L’Homme Libre is a subtle alliance of Haitian vetiver and leather, highlighted by the clarity of Cashmeran wood and immaculate musks.
TheChicGeek says “This has a lovely refreshing greenness. The violet heart is softly mellowed on the dry-down to warm leather and vetiver. A very easy fragrance to wear.”
Best For – Everyday Dad
Yves Saint Laurent – L’Homme Libre – Cologne Tonic – 60ml - £35 - Exclusive at Boots
Tried & Tested - MTherapy Beauty System
The MTherapy Beauty system is said to combat the signs of aging by rejuvenating and regenerating the skin through the use of non-invasive nourishing technology. Breaking the indoctrination of beauty treatments requiring 2-hour pre-booked salon sessions to receive results, MTherapy can be used at home.
Inspired by Mesotherapy, the simple 2 minute treatment feeds multi-skin care ingredients into the skin through the use of controlled vapour. The process, following six years of research and clinical trials in Paris has proven to dramatically reduce the signs of aging after only a few sessions. This is a major advantage compared to most creams and serums because the steam enhances the penetration of the ingredients.
Aimed at people - 30 years upwards, the MTherapy anti-aging technology aims to refine enlarged pores, decrease lines and wrinkles and bring a new radiance to the face whilst naturally ‘plumping’ it up. With visable changes even after the first use, to gain the best results, users are encouraged to use podlets twice a week for four weeks, reducing to once a week for around another ten weeks. To maintain results the pod should then be used intermittently with frequency varying according to the individual.
Simon Luel, Chairman of the MTherapy Group, says “We’re extremely excited about the launch of MTherapy. The treatment suggests the beauty industry is moving in a new direction. It's a spa like treatment that can be used repeatedly at home to achieve great results. Our research and clinical trials have been so positive that we have decided to fully guarantee the results after four weeks of use.”
How it works - The MTherapy Beauty Pod’s programmed cycle first releases natural ingredients designed to prepare the skin, cleansing it and temporarily opening pores. This is a mixture containing active organic antiseptic properties, which includes lavender, camphor and tea tree oils renowned for their cleansing and repairing qualities. Added are extracts of helichrysum, useful in the fight against aging and also copper and zinc, known for their renewing and healing effects.
- With the skin prepared; the Beauty Pod and Podlet then deliver the key elements of the treatment. This is a compound rich in anti-ageing ingredients which include multivitamins, minerals, plants essential oils, spirulina, arnica calendula and lilium candidum alongside hyaluronic acid.
Two minutes after the start, the pleasant soft vapour clears, the machine starts to clean itself and you are free to go about your day.
Research carried out by Laboratories Lysedia, Paris, independently verified and published showed 71% of people noticed an excellent result in skin brightness and 57% noticed a good to excellent result in skin's hydration, tensor effect, wrinkle size, pore size, skin texture amd sebum.
TheChicGeek says "This machine is really simple to use. Plug-in, fix the clear funnel on to the front and then place one of the pods into the bottom of the machine. The machine pierces the holes in the pods. The light turns from red to blue as it is heating up. You place your face near the end of the funnel and receive the two treatments of steam. The whole thing is really quick and lasts about 2 mins.
"The first burst of steam cleans the face and opens the pores, while the second delivers the treatment. This form of treatment makes sense and it definitely feels like it works. Your skin feels healthier from the inside, if that makes sense? It feels fresh and cleansed. The steam smells of essential oils and isn't an unpleasant experience. The only negative I have is the cost. I can understand the price of the machine, but 4 pods for £60, makes that 2 min. treatment cost £15. Which for a home treatment is fairly steep. I think for this to work, you have to compare it with spa prices and also the convenience it offers by doing it in your own home."
The Pod steamer is sold with a pack of 4 podlet treatments for £269.
Each box of 4 podlets will be sold for £60. With a buy three get the fourth free, launch offer.
Tried & Tested - Illuminum Fragrance Lounge
Just down a narrow alleyway, off Mayfair's fashionable Dover Street is the Illuminum Fragrance Lounge. This quiet, minimal interior is home to Illuminum's range of 32 original fragrances. On your Illuminum fragrance experience you will be presented with a selection of glasses, each of which are infused with different Illuminum fragrance.
Left - Inside the lounge
This is a fantastic way to discover a scent as the amount of molecules is not as high as on freshly scented blotters which could easily overpower your very delicate sense of smell. The base note of a fragrance emerges on our skin after a few hours and is a note of the scent which lasts the longest.
The fragrances are split in 4 groups; Citrus, Oud, Musk and Floral. If you let the sales person know what type you prefer, they will bring over a selection for you to try. You can walk in, but it's best to book. Give yourself an hour for something you will wear, hopefully, forever.
Right - The fragrance are sprayed on to blotters inside brandy glasses and then you smell the heart and base notes inside the glass
TheChicGeek says "There is something to be said about being away from the noise and rush of the department store or perfume shop when choosing a fragrance. You need to concentrate without distraction. When I first heard about the Illuminum Lounge I thought it was somewhere where you created your own fragrance. This can be an extremely overwhelming task and you can end with something of a dog's dinner of a scent. So, it makes sense that all the scents here are full formed by experts and you are given the time and space to select. Made in Walthamstow, Illuminum's scents use quality ingredients and for the sizes, the prices aren't ridiculous.
The Beethoven is playing, you're in a minimal, Kelly Hoppen-type interior, so it has something the Clockwork Oranges about it all. But, this is part of the fun, enjoy it. It can seem daunting at first and you may feel you're under pressure to be clever, but go on gut instinct, and just choose what you like.
The Vaporizer collection contains 15% perfume and the Haute range contains 30%, the fragrance will change over time, so it's good not to rush. When you start to narrow the selection down, you then spray on your skin. Then hopefully, after that, you'll know what you like and that's your selection. I went for the Black Oud, which changed to a dry down smelling to me like rosewater. It was interesting because I wouldn't usually wear an Oud fragrance. But, like everything, we should always be openminded."
Left - What would Anthony Burgess pick? More Illuminum scents on display
Illuminum - Vaporizer Collection - 50ml - £70, Haute Perfume - 100ml - £150, Limited - 100ml - £400
Men's Grooming - Tried & Tested - Elemis Deep Cleanse Facial Wash
Elemis' Deep Cleanse Facial Wash contains a potent blend of oak bark, spearmint and peppermint in a unique milk protein base to loosen and remove dirt and grime leaving your skin squeaky clean and thoroughly refreshed. Pour a small amount into the palms and mix with warm water to create a rich lather, gently massage into damp skin using circular motions and rinse well. This fast-acting gel formulation is to be used morning and evening and also helps to prevent in-growing hairs.
TheChicGeek says "This gel has a sticky, solid texture that is easy to apply and wash off. Smooth and non-abrasive, it comes out in an amber coloured gel and leaves your skin prepped for shaving. The only negative, which isn't really a negative, 200ml is a lot of face wash, so will last you a long time."
Left - Elemis - Deep Cleanse Facial Wash - £18.50