How To

How To

This is the structure upon which every stylish men's wardrobe and grooming routine is built. TheChicGeek's extensive range of 'How Tos'  brings together his and industry experts' advice on everything from 'How to Tie a Bow-Tie' to 'How to Get the Perfect Smile', empowering you to look after your wardrobe, wear it correctly and to make the best of yourself. If there is something not covered then send TheChicGeek an email at askthegeek@thechicgeek.co.uk and he'll be happy to answer.

Tuesday, 16 February 2010 13:52

How to have a bespoke suit made - Part Three

English tailor Henry Herbert makes a bespoke suit for TheChicGeek, here's how...

How to have a bespoke suit made

Part Three - The Suit is Finished

The suit is finally finished. All the waiting is over and the expectation is excitedly high. It looks great. You put the suit on for the final time, all the alterations from the previous meeting have been completed and the last thing the tailor does is cut open your button hole. There you have it, one amazing bespoke Donegal tweed suit. The great thing about bespoke is you're walking around in a one of kind; nobody has this suit because it was made just for you. A very special feeling.

Sir Henry Herbert was master of the royal wardrobe to both King Charles I and King Charles II, responsible for their tunicae and viseres (shirts and hats). Charlie Collingwood resurre cted the Henry Herbert name when he established his tailors. Henry Herbert tailors use a fleet of Vespas to visit and measure up customers throughout London. Carrying tape measures, chalk and the finest selection of wools, linens and silks from the UK's most traditional and long-established mills, Henry Herbert tailors will come to you whenever and wherever to measure up and make up perfectly fitting hand made suits.

Henry Herbert support the "Pick Your Cotton Carefully" campaign. All of the wools are from British sheep and spun in British mills and everything they make is Made in England where they are very nice to their pattern cutters, seamstresses and tailors. They have just started making a selection of bespoke overcoats.

www.henryherbert.com

See Part One - Click Here

See Part Two - Click Here

Wednesday, 14 October 2009 10:01

How to Get Great Eyebrows

how to get great eyebrows alf

Shavata has 20 years of experience of creating the best brows in the business. "With men it depends on their individual personality. Are they a man’s man who prefers to keep it natural? Or, are they more of a metrosexual man who likes the manicured look?"

Shavata's top tips for Men

Regardless I think all men should get their eyebrows trimmed on a regular basis and just keep them tidy. The Shavata Brow Tamer is a great tool for keeping your eyebrows in place. Brow hairs grow in different directions so a quick slick of the Tamer will instantly give a more uniform groomed look.

I personally think that men look better with manicured eyebrows, and that there is no shame in a man plucking or threading his eyebrows. People often interpret shaped eyebrows as having a high distinctive arch, but it doesn’t have to be that way at all. If anything you want people to look at you and not your eyebrows, so the more natural they look the better.

Done well male brow shaping can look really natural so half the time other people won’t even know if you have had it done.

A basic shaping (between the brows and underneath the eyebrow) will simply make your eyebrows look clean and tidy. Male or female, a mono-brow is an absolute no, no! Just removing the hair from between the eyebrows will make all the difference to a man’s appearance, and will instantly draw attention to your eyes, for all the right reasons.

To avoid mistakes consult a professional for a first shaping, rather than taking the situation into your own hands. They will give you a good starting shape which you can then pluck and maintain yourself.

If you do decide to go it alone these are my top tips:

Always use natural daylight, no matter how hard you try you will make mistakes in artificial light.

Use a hand mirror and a big mirror when shaping eyebrows.a hand mirror for close up plucking and a large mirror to sit back and look at both brows as you pluck, checking that the eyebrows are even.

Eyebrows are sisters not twins, so never shape them separately. Using a good pair of quality stainless steel tweezers pluck a little at a time from both sides, always trying to keep to your natural shape. This way you are less likely to commit the cardinal sin of over plucking!! Your eyebrows should start before the eyes not after so exercise some restraint.

Never pluck above the brow, this is your natural shape and you should never tweeze this area, as it will never grow back the same.

Shavata has worked in the beauty industry for over 20 years and currently runs a number of Brow Studios across the UK including branches in Harrods and Harvey Nichols. Shavata has become a leader in her field and is recognised as THE authority on eyebrows.  Shavata believes that, however good you are at shaping your own brows, you will notice a huge difference if you have them professionally manicured.  It is the equivalent to a mini face-lift, but takes no longer than 15 minutes. Using the wax and tweeze method, eyebrows are groomed to create the perfect frame for the face. Shavata says eyes are the most important feature on your face so you need to have them perfectly framed. Using her knowledge and skill, Shavata has created a range of eyebrow products that can shape and groom your eyebrows to perfection in the comfort of your own home. 

www.shavata.co.uk

Tuesday, 06 October 2009 11:27

How to have a bespoke suit made - Part Two

English tailor Henry Herbert shows us how to have a Bespoke suit made.

How to Have a Bespoke Suit Made

Part Two - The First Try On

This is the exciting part, the cloth has been cut and you get to see the suit for first time. The Donegal tweed looks great, this is such a great tweed for the city. Firstly, you try on the trousers making sure the waist is comfortable and sit up and down making sure the 'seat' is good and allowing you sit without the trousers becoming too tight on the legs. You also look at the length and width of the trousers. If you don't like anything or feel uncomfortable this is your chance to speak up.

The jacket is unlined and at this stage everything can be adjusted. On this suit the shoulders needed to be narrowed and the bottom of the jacket needed to be curved. Because the shoulders were being narrowed the lapels needs to be made smaller. Suits are all about proportions, if you change one aspect this has a knock effect in other areas.

Every area is looked at; the pockets - how they slant, where the buttons are going to go, the arm length. Once you are happy, the suit goes away to be finished.

Sir Henry Herbert was master of the royal wardrobe to both King Charles I and King Charles II, responsible for their tunicae and viseres (shirts and hats). Charlie Collingwood resurre cted the Henry Herbert name when he established his tailors. Henry Herbert tailors use a fleet of Vespas to visit and measure up customers throughout London. Carrying tape measures, chalk and the finest selection of wools, linens and silks from the UK's most traditional and long-established mills, Henry Herbert tailors will come to you whenever and wherever to measure up and make up perfectly fitting hand made suits.

Henry Herbert support the "Pick Your Cotton Carefully" campaign. All of the wools are from British sheep and spun in British mills and everything they make is Made in England where they are very nice to their pattern cutters, seamstresses and tailors. They have just started making a selection of bespoke overcoats.

www.henryherbert.com

Tuesday, 01 September 2009 12:56

How to Choose the Perfect Pair of Jeans

How to choose the perfect pair of jeans

When buying jeans, you should always go with Denim that speaks to you, you should listen to your instinct. Find jeans that make your butt look good and it always helps to shop with your girlfriend or significant other. Honesty is critical.

J Brand Denim Co's co-founder Jeff Rudes

How to Choose the Perfect Pair of Jeans

The perfect pair of jeans are the ones you love. I think the J Brand Denim Co Kane body in 'Boone' is another great low rise, slim straight leg option. Boone is a classic dark rinse that universally looks good. You should expect to pay between £150 and £250.

The Walker body in either 'Outcast,' a blue-tinted wash or 'Outlaw,' an overdyed black wash is a great option that will take the working man from the office to the bar, dinner party or anywhere else he intends to go when his day at work is done.

The tall, skinny guy should stick with the slim, straight leg such as the the J Brand Denim Co Kane body. The slightly portly guys looks good in a fuller boot leg in a dark wash such as the J Brand Denim Co McCoy relaxed boot cut in 'Gaslamp.' The jean should not be too baggy from the thigh to the knee. The shorter guy looks good in a boot cut as well, but I also think a stove pipe straight leg like the J Brand Denim Co Kane, slim straight leg is flattering.

J Brand was co-founded by denim manufacturer Jeff Rudes and former stylist Susie Crippen. Jeff pioneered the French jeans boom in America in the late 70s with his first jeans brand, Paris 2000. In the 80s, he moved to California from New York and started Area Code, a trendy junior line of Lycra knits. Getting back into denim in the 90s, he partnered with industry icons Ron Herman and Adriano Goldschmied to create A. Gold E., a successful denim sportswear brand. He then stepped into the private label arena in 1999, helped Abercrombie & Fitch transform their denim collection and become their largest supplier of premium jeans. He partnered with Susie Crippen and J Brand launched as an exclusive at Ron Herman's Melrose jeans bar in the spring of 2005. In fall 2008, J Brand introduced a men's line under the label, J Brand Denim Co. The line reflects modern basics with a vintage sensibility, inspired by classic Americana.

J Brand Denim Co. is available at Selfridges 

www.jbrandjeans.com

Page 3 of 4