You'll probably recognise the tailoring brand, RAKE, from dressing Dermot O'Leary in the final 'dressy' episodes of the X-Factor. The label started in 2009, by friend of TheChicGeek's Clive Darby, who previously worked at Kilgour. We remember talking to Clive a couple of years ago, and he said then he wanted to open a store in Mayfair.
Well, he's done it! They have just opened a store on Duke Street in Mayfair, featuring the full range of ready-to-wear, all subtly branded with the house's signature 'Halo' symbol. The new store also takes personal appointments for Bespoke or Made-to-measure services for your very own O'Leary tux.
77 Duke Street, W1
Alex Wysman, Store Manager, Hostem
"A mixed leather classic jacket with some beautiful detail finishes. A true stand out from your average varsity jacket."
Casely Hayford - "Lelouche" Jacket - £1390
"There is a super soft finish to this mid weight linen jacket, perfect for an informal summer event."
"Cinch back soft finish canvas chino work pant. Easy to dress up or down"
Adam Kimmel Carhartt - Slim Fit Pant - £165
"Single breasted suit from Yang Li's debut season. Beautifully finished suit with incredibly clean lines. A designer to really watch for the future."
Yang Li - Single Breasted Suit - £1150
"Very simple yet the attention to detail on this hand finished shoe sets it apart from most. This shoe is great for smart/casual looks."
O'Keeffe - Blue Suede Loafers - £435
Ben Andrew, Junior Buyer – Menswear, Liberty
"Prints are a key trend this season and this irreverent Liberty fish print shirt is perfect for the summer months."
Liberty London - Red Fish Print Short Sleeve Shirt - £85
"Inspired by Aboriginal artwork this great Folk tee is a fresh alternative to a graphic T-shirts."
Folk - Grey Circular Dots Print T-Shirt - £65
"Tailoring was all over the catwalks for AW12 so get a head start on this trend with this Our Legacy double breasted blazer. The textured wool and slim fit provide a sharp sartorial look."
Our Legacy - Navy Double Breasted Barre Blazer - £380
"Incotex are considered by many to be the definitive chino – this slim fitting navy style is classic wardrobe staple."
Incotex - Navy Inochino Trousers - £215
"Backpacks have a had resurgence recently but with smarter trends coming through you need to accessories to match and this Ally Capellino satchel is a smart piece that is more cool than corporate."
Ally Capellino - Brown Richard Leather Satchel - £450
Steve Tierney, Co-Owner & Buyer, Men of Ilk
"A classic chukka boot from Clip & Rope. Made by hand in Portugal in exclusive quantities. We fell in love with these boots as soon as we saw them, they are unique and the quality is fantastic."
Clip & Rope - The Rowdy Boot - £170
"The Painter's Pocket linen shirt is typical of DS Dundee's attention to detail, cut and quality craftmanship."
DS Dundee - Painter's Pocket Shirt Indigo - £175
"As with the Painter's Pocket shirt, the craftmanship on this jacket is of the highest standard. A truly great lightweight and water resistant parka."
DS Dundee - Robert John Parka Jacket - £375
"Gant have excelled themselves with their 'Rugger' range Summer chinos this season. Lower waist, slim leg Soho fit. A slight that makes them extremely comfortable. We are also stocking these in cobalt blue and light blue."
Gant Rugger - Summer Chino - Mole Green - £95
"Premium quality shirt from Lee 101. Reg fit. 5.125oz Indigo Pique Selvage Japanese Denim from the Kuroki Mill, Okayama that will wash down like a pair of your favourite jeans. Lee 101 are really stepping up with their shirts this season."
Lee 101 - Rider shirt Dark Blue - £115
Stacey Smith, Head of Menswear, Matches
"Embrace colour with these bold and bright chinos from Piombo which will liven up any spring wardrobe."
Piombo - Cotton Trouser - £208
"These chic tortoiseshell sunnies from under the radar brand LGR are the must-have summer accessory."
LGR - Luanda Sunglasses - £195
"These tri-colour trainers,with contrasting textures from Balenciaga stand out from the classics."
Balenciaga - Low Yellow Trainers - £315
"This double-breasted jacket from Rake makes the perfect travel jacket, a versatile addition to a gentleman’s wardrobe."
Rake - Linen Jacket - £1008
"This old school, luxe sports cashmere knit is pure comfort for the weekend."
E Tautz - Letter 'E' Cashmere Jumper - £695
Luisa Via Roma, Men's Buyer, Monica Pascarella
"For an informal look, this jacket is characterised by extreme attention to detail typical of Japanese tradition."
"Cardigan with laddered effect. A stand-out knitwear piece that replaces outerwear, to be worn alone."
"Classic trench coat, to be worn with a kaleidoscope print T-shirt for an updated statement look."
Burberry Prorsum - Shower Proof Cotton Trench Coat - £1295
"Leather jacket. An essential unmistakeably stylish piece that transforms the wearer into a sophisticated urban warrior."
Rick Owens - Boxer Leather Jacket - £1770.45
"These lace up shoes with a vintage style go well with the pieces selected."
Officine Creative - Vintaged Leather Lace Up Shoes - £323.85
Tim Colling, Junior Buyer, Urban Outfitters
"Really like this pop colour cable for summer and works well with the sun fade effect."
Shore Leave - Red Sun Fade Cable Knit Crew - £65
"This is a new jacket shape for us and the neckline is really interesting finished with the clips."
Collective Craft - Yellow Funnel Neck Jacket - £70
"The ikat contrast back pocket works really well on the canvas fabric and is a nice update for the classic short. This short is garment dyed which gives it a nice laundered effect."
Worland - Ikat Pocket Shorts - £45
"The yarns have been dyed with indigo the same way you do with denim and then the fabric has been reversed so the stripe isn’t perfect. The wash on this tee is really nice and I like the off centre bound neck too!"
Indigo Stripe Tee - £25
Shore Leave - Paisley Print Shirt - £50
Nobody wants to do ‘victim’ but as lovers of fashion nothing beats an original. TheChicGeek is predicting a return to ‘high-fashion’ as the labels of ‘heritage’, ‘authentic’ and ‘vintage-inspired’ become well past their wear-by-date. We need something new.
When dealing with high-fashion it’s important to pick the right collections and the correct pieces. Two or three select pieces, which are instantly recognisable and earn the respect and recognition of you as a taste-maker or style leader, are enough to see you through a season. It’s also about maximising your budget as this stuff ain’t cheap. These are modern fashion classics, pieces to wear to death this season, then rest for a few years knowing they are there to rediscover because they are strong enough to become future vintage.
TheChicGeek's Tips to Wearing High-Fashion
Buy the best and buy early. These items, some are still waiting to drop, won't hang around; if you see it, buy it.
Wear only one item at a time. Think of it like a piece of art on a blank wall.
No Total Looks. This looks wrong away from the catwalk and says "more money than sense" and "lack of imagination".
Wear all these pieces together and you become a male AbFab Edina. The idea is chic and balanced.
These are subtle symbols of taste and other ‘in-the-know’ people with recognise what you are wearing. No need for labels or logos.
Blow all you money on one or two items and then buy high-street for all your neutral basics.
Givenchy - Birds Of Paradise Printed Poplin Shirt - £446.35
Givenchy - Birds Of Paradise Over T-Shirt - £408.59
Burberry Prorsum - Raffia Jacquard Trench Coat - £1995
Burberry Prorsum - Fringed Stitched Calfskin Lace-Ups - £550
More gushing - Click here
Christopher Kane - Multi Cable T-Shirt - £180
Christopher Kane - 'Systems' Print Swim Shorts - £310
Gant by Michael Bastian
Bastian's Brady Bunch-inspired Turtle or Hippo print is a fun must-have.
We've had the National Theatre play, now War Horse the film and the period drama hit Downton Abbey, charting the Edwardian era disappearing into the tragedy of the First World War, bringing this moment of history galloping back into the spotlight.
On the cusp of the centenary of its start, the First World War is continually referenced in men's fashion, particularly the acknowledgment of the trenchcoat. Burberry, who invented the waterproof fabric garbardine, has built a billion-pound business around this one item, originally designed as a raincoat for the officers in the trenches.
There is something very classic and heroic about this era. The realism and tragedy has been lost and replaced by a romanticism - see the famous Singer Sargent image below - which creates a smart and tailored look. The colour palette of earthy browns, olives, khakis and beige is the perfect base for a contemporary man's wardrobe.
Burberry Prorsum - Cotton-Gabardine Trench Coat - £1595
Label - Private White VC
This new 'Made in Manchester' label is named after Jack White. A true English gentleman and military hero. He was the founding father of the Manchester factory that now manufactures in his name.
Born in Leeds in 1896, White was only 18 years old when he signed up to the King’s Own Royal Regiment (Lancaster). The unit was ordered to assist in the relief of British forces under siege in the town of Kut, a few hundred miles south of Baghdad.During this effort, the unit attempted to cross the Dialah River, but within minutes came under attack from heavy gunfire with disastrous results. Being the only one neither injured or dead, Private Jack White V.C spun into action tying a telephone wire to his boat, jumping overboard and towing it back to shore. Not only did he save the lives of some of his countryman he also saved valuable pieces of equipment. On 27 June 1917, Private Jack White V.C. was awarded the Victoria Cross, the highest and most prestigious honour that can be awarded to British and Commonwealth forces. Private Jack White continued in active service until the end of the war, when he returned to Manchester and began an apprenticeship as a trainee pattern cutter in the local factory. He went on to become General Manager and then Owner before fading health forced him to relinquish his interest and he passed away in 1949 aged 52.
Far Left - DB Mess Suit - £495
Left - Bomber - £225
Below Left - Gassed by John Singer Sargent, 1918-1919 - Imperial War Museum
Below - Bell & Ross' new WW1 Military watch is based on the first wrist watches worn by military pilots. The flourescent triangle at the 12 o'clock enabled pilots to instantly get their bearings, even in the dark.
Bell & Ross - WW1-92 Military - £1950
G-Shock Premium GW-3000BB Leatherback by Men’s File
G-Shock has joined forces with modern title Men’s File for this watch influenced by the watches the Royal Air Force wore during the First World War. The leather case helped protect the watch yet the time was still visible to the wearer. Limited-edition of 50.
Housed in the basement of the new Gant flagship on Regent Street is their little known 'Rugger' Collection - the younger and trendier men's label. The basement has a bright and sunny feeling to compliment the new Rugger range which has been meticulously reinvented to address the style conscious, younger consumer.
This season the Rugger line's inspiration is drawn from the quintessential NYC male, resulting in a variety of classic high quality garments created with meticulous attention to detail. Key pieces include a waxed cotton parka and sun bleached chinos to create an effortlessly cool original preppy style fashioned by the 60's Ivy League students.
This is timeless preppy dressing in younger styles and shapes.
Check out Gant's new Regent Street Flagship - Click Here