From the latin, barba, meaning beard, the humble barber was relegated to the back streets in the noughties by our metrosexual surge to embrace our feminine side and the more ‘directional’ hairdresser. The stripey barber’s pole was replaced with smooth-as-a-baby’s-bum manscaping and too much hair product in our quest for modernity.

Left - Pankhurst London's Bentley Barber Chairs

Now, the tide has turned. The return of sharp and defined men’s hairstyles and the fashion for full beards, that require the skilled hands of the barbershop, has meant a whole raft of new openings to fulfill this new demand.

Hannah Wilcox, Director and Founder of the British Barbers Associations says “Men are walking out of the unisex, sometimes more feminine environment, of hairdressers and are walking into the barbers. They are beginning to understand that barbers have very different techniques to hairdressers to create the styles in fashion at this current time.”

Yearly events like Movember have made men think more about facial hair and the different looks they can create with it. Moustaches and beards have become a style cliché that doesn’t seem to be disappearing anytime soon. The fashion for facial hair has also pushed the reintroduction of more classic and masculine haircuts. These tightly cropped or shaved styles require more maintenance and only truly look good when freshly cut.

“Where hairdressers promote a cut every 6-8 weeks, barbers suggest every month, to maintain the shape and style of the haircut. The cost in a hairdresser's is normally a lot greater and also more time consuming and restricted to an appointment system, where as the barber shop is a lot more free flowing for those running shorter on time.” says Wilcox.

The return of the barbershop sees the end of our dalliance with the feminine and our rediscovery of traditionally groomed masculinity. When the barbershop is good there is nobody better. Here is TheChicGeek’s picks of the new openings;

Aveda Pop-Up Barbershop - Holborn

To celebrate London Collections: Men, the Aveda Institute in Holborn is launching a pop-up barbershop. Discover a haven of gentlemanly calm amid the hustle and bustle of Men’s Fashion Week. It is open to everybody. Treatments include haircuts, wet shaves and facials.

Date: Saturday 15th June – Tuesday 18th June 2013 Time: 9.30am – 5.30pm Location: The Aveda Institute Covent Garden, 174-177 High Holborn, London, WC1V 7AA

www.avedainstitute.co.uk

Pankhurst London - Soho

Pankhurst London have moved to a new home on Soho’s Newburgh Street, just off Carnaby Street. The Pankhurst team offers modern cuts and traditional wet shaves in an environment as elegant as the bay rum and lime scent of their eponymous products.

Right - Pankhurst London's Mad Men style Johnnie Walker whisky waiting room

Sit back on the custom-made Bentley Mulliner leather barbers’ chairs or relax in the Johnnie Walker Blue Label lounge. Meticulously designed by owner Brent Pankhurst, who previously worked as the barber at Alfred Dunhill, the new shop is a Mad Men style male sanctuary in Soho.

Pankhurst London barbershop, 10 Newburgh Street, London, W1F 7RN

www.pankhurstlondon.com

Genco Male Grooming – Notting Hill

The Portobello Road salon is the 3rd Genco salon - the first is in Chiswick, the second is a concession in the CityPoint spa in Moorgate. Their approach is pretty simple. They hire really good staff, pay them well, inspire them and give them a good working environment. They then put them through a training course to sharpen up their traditional barbering skills - for example they are taught how to do fades using clippers properly, and they work hard to get their finishing skills up to precise standards. They then teach them how to do traditional shaves and beard trims.

Genco Male Grooming, 280 Portobello Rd, Notting Hill, London W10 5TE

www.genco-uk.com

Ted’s Grooming Room – Marylebone

The fifth of Ted Baker’s Ted’s Grooming Rooms, the Marylebone branch offers everything from a quick beard trim to ‘Ted’s Full Service’ using their own range of grooming and styling products. They also offer a Turkish shave which involves a mini flame thrower to get rid of those niggly hairs in your ears and nose.

www.tedsgroomingroom.com

Mr Rizzo – Covent Garden

Named after Signor Agnello Rizzo, a humble Italian whose adventurous trip to England back in the early 1940’s found him always immaculately dressed in Savile Row tailored suits and slick hair and moustache. He soon became known in London for his flare, charisma, and inimitable style – many say he became Italy’s first ever English gent, always addressed as Mr Rizzo rather than by his first name.

The team behind Mr Rizzo seek to reinterpret male grooming for the modern gentleman by championing classic British style with timeless Italian flare and creative design. The minimalistic salon design and spacious surroundings are complimented with finest Italian ceramic flooring, traditional British walnut grooming stations and dark leather upholstery. They offer everything from a tailored haircut to an invigorating hot towel shave.

4 Upper St Martins Lane, London

www.facebook.com/MRRIZZOMENS

Sharps Barber – Fitzrovia

Under the mantra ‘Maintenance Matters’, Sharps Barber’s trademark is their vintage barber chairs, retro design and high-quality services, whilst at the same time serving barista-grade coffee. They even featured a New York style pop-up food residency last month.

Offering a relaxed environment with premium services at accessible prices, Sharps continues to provide an alternative to unisex hairdressers and budget ‘chop-shops’ under the watchful eye of Rory MacParland, a.k.a. Mister Sharps.

For quiffs, moustaches, flat tops and beards, short, long, curly or no hair at all, the Sharps Barbers have the skill and experience for any guy’s taste or style. Sharps Barber and Shop’s services include - Wash, Cut & Style, Beard & Moustache Trim, and the renowned “Sharps Shave”- a traditional 45-minute 3-hot towel 2-direction straight razor shave, guaranteed to leave any man feeling prepped and looking sharp.

9 Windmill Street, W1T 2JF

www.sharpsbarbers.com

Lacoste L.12.12 Noir

The latest addition to the L.12.12 range of fragrances named after the famous Lacoste polo shirt. Noir is a woody aromatic said to be inspired by the intensity of warm summer evenings and the timeless elegance of the above polo shirt. A classic fougere fragrance containing top notes of watermelon and Egyptian basil along with a heart of lavender and verbena. A dark chocolate accord along with cashmeran, coumarin and patchouli are revealed in the base.

This fragrance features a patented new technology – Cyclodextrin – an innovative molecule which encapsulates the fragrance ingredients and reactivates them when it comes into contact with moisture on the skin.

TheChicGeek says “This is surprisingly good. The fragrance has an attractive warmth that is mellow and refreshing at the same time. This is one of those fragrances that men will enjoy wearing. While there is nothing revolutionary here, it is a good example of a mass produced fougere fragrance.”

Best For – Young, Sporty Dad

Lacoste L.12.12 Noir - 100ml - £47

Uomo by Ermengildo Zegna

Developed by Spanish perfumer Alberto Morillas, Ermengildo Zegna’s new Uomo fragrance combines classic ‘Zegna Bergamot’ – grown at the label's grove in Calabria -  grassy vetiver and cedarwood with a shot of violettyne captive - an intense violet extract.

TheChicGeek says “This is a fresh, citrus fragrance with just a hint of the violet. The initial, top hit of fragrance is really clean and slightly addictive while the dry down does disappoint to a mediocre vetiver/woody base.”

Best For – Dapper Dad 

Uomo by Ermengildo Zegna - 100ml - £60 - Exclusive at Boots

Salvatore Ferragamo Acqua Essenziale

Inspired one of the four elements – water – Acqua Essenziale contains notes of mint and lemon tree leaf along with heart notes of  geranium, rosemary and cascalone – a molecular aquatic note. The base of patchouli and vetiver, alongside Helveltolide – a new floral musk. The nose again is Alberto Morillas.

TheChicGeek says “This has a unusual but attractive synthetic smell. The cooling of the mint and cascalone is there, along with warmth of lavender. It’s pleasant and masculine and a definite reminder of water, but I think a fragrance needs a little more personality if it is to standout in today’s crowded marketplace.”

Best For –Holiday Dad

Salvatore Ferragamo Acqua Essenziale – 100ml - £58

DSquared2 – Potion For Man Blue Cadet

A follow-up to the original Potion by fashion duo DSquared2, Blue Cadet is an aromatic, woody fragrance with key notes of bergamot, mandarin, pine, blue hemlock, cedarwood and musk. Created by perfumer Mathilde Bijaoui.

TheChicGeek says “This has a cooling metallic smell whose woody and fresh heart of pine leaves and various other forest ingredients are lifted by the citrus top.”

Best For – Gay Dad!

DSquared2 – Potion For Man Blue Cadet – 100ml - £54

Aramis Perfume Calligraphy Rose

Aramis’ new Perfume Calligraphy Rose is the latest in a collection focused on Harrod’s Middle Eastern customer. Containing intoxicating rose absolute, this is an ingredient which isn’t as feminine as you would first think – Click here

The fragrance opens with golden accents of saffron, combined with wet honeysuckle petals, energized by the modern freshness of oregano leaves. To reveal the wild beauty of the Turkish rose absolute, the luxurious heart develops captivating vapors of myrrh and styrax, contrasted with a layer of French lavender. The background creates an aura of mystery and irresistible seduction: a soft hypnotic veil of labdanum and musk is combined with the tantalising power of ambergris and olibanum to create a delightful trail of undeniable magnetism.

TheChicGeek says “This isn’t for shrinking violets, nor is it too overpowering that it’s unwearable. We’re seeing more and more of these style of fragrances, so it will be interesting to see whether it makes it into the mainstream. For those who like something a bit exotic and rich, this should do the trick.”

Best For – Exotic Dad

Aramis Calligraphy Rose - 100ml - £115 - Exclusive to Harrods

Bulgari MAN Extreme

Bulgari MAN Extreme is an update of the original Bulgari MAN fragrance. It is a fragrance that melds Mediterranean freshness, a heady woodiness and an oriental touch, said to evoke Rome’s vitality and strength, according to the blurb.

An aroma of vegetal and zesty top notes such as pink grapefruit, Calabrian bergamot and cactus pulp that create a tingling olfactory experience, one that bursts with energy. At the heart, a distinctive floral masculine vibe released by a fusion of white freesia, Guatemalan cardamom and vegetal amber, accented by a luminous trail of reassuring earthy notes such as balsa wood, Haitian vetiver and Laotian benzoin that add an oriental warmth and radiance to this special scent.

Another one produced by perfumer Alberto Morillas, he says “At the heart of this is cardamom, which I personally watched grow, and that gives the fragrance a white, immaculate, and very masculine dimension. When integrated into the fragrance it instantly evokes the openness of a landscape that stretches out into infinity. Masculinity requires a slightly ambiguous strength so we chose freesia because of its freshness, unconventional appeal and the immediate clarity it brings. The challenge of this fragrance was to find a new freshness in this quintessential Bulgari signature”.

TheChicGeeks says “The floral here has a cold freshness which lends itself towards the masculine. Thumbs up Roman Emperor style for this one.”

Best For – Gladiator Dad

Bulgari MAN Extreme - 100ml - £60.00

Yves Saint Laurent – L’Homme Libre – Cologne Tonic

This is limited-edition, woody-aromatic fragrance, created by Olivier Polge, opens with sparkling notes of Primofiori lemon, carried on an aquatic wave spiced with a shiver of pink pepper. The heart contains violet Leaves and aromatic basil. The heady, woody imprint of L’Homme Libre is a subtle alliance of Haitian vetiver and leather, highlighted by the clarity of Cashmeran wood and immaculate musks.

TheChicGeek says “This has a lovely refreshing greenness. The violet heart is softly mellowed on the dry-down to warm leather and vetiver. A very easy fragrance to wear.”

Best For – Everyday Dad

Yves Saint Laurent – L’Homme Libre – Cologne Tonic – 60ml - £35 - Exclusive at Boots