fashion covid 19 cancel orders manufacturing

This is a disaster. This will probably be the biggest recession the world has ever seen and fashion and retail is going to get hit hard. What the global spread of coronavirus (COVID 19) shows us is how interdependent our economies have become and what a fragile house of cards it all was in the first place. Those cards are disappearing quickly and the entire thing is coming crashing down.

Fashion brands and companies are in freefall and the current mindset is to cancel everything. Fashion had a problem with unsold inventory well before this. As the industry got bigger and the need for huge quantities to make a profit increased, unsold merchandise and how to get rid of it was a headache for the majority of brands, high-street or ‘luxury’.

It has been reported that garment factories in Bangladesh have now had orders worth more than US$2 billion cancelled by brands and retailers because of the global coronavirus crisis. Orders for nearly 650 million garments, worth a total of US$2.04 billion have been cancelled, impacting on 738 factories and about 1.42 million workers, according to the Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA).

Just as the Chinese factories start production again, Europe and US are mostly in lockdown with many shops closed and retailers cancelling orders.

Primark is using a force majeure clause in its contracts to cancel its orders, the Times newspaper said. “We are deeply saddened that this will clearly have an effect throughout our entire supply chain,” Primark Chief Executive Officer Paul Marchant told the newspaper.

While much of the SS20 season would have been made despite the reported disturbances in the supply chain from China at the beginning of the year, it’s not too late to cancel high summer stock or the waves of drops, brands, who don’t want to hold much stock, have become used to. Primark has no online sales, so all that stock will be stuck in stores and warehouses.

“We have large quantities of existing stock in our stores, our depots and in transit, that is paid for and if we do not take this action now we will be taking delivery of stock that we simply can’t sell. This is unprecedented action for unprecedented and frankly unimaginable times,” said Marchant.

Marks & Spencer has recently cancelled £100m in clothing orders.

This is the retail equivalent of cutting off limbs to save the vital organs. Brands don’t know how long this is going to last and what shape they and consumers will be in at the end of it. They need to save cashflow. Fashion feels particularly unimportant right now and will be awash with huge discounts to clear stock in the near future, and that’s in an already saturated market. Brands cancelling orders will impact manufacturing countries hard, but this isn’t a frivolous decision, this is a battle for survival. 

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Friday, 20 March 2020 17:48

Splash or Cash? The Greek Key Underpants

Versace greek key underwear black gold pantsVersace underwear, thanks to its signature use of the ancient Greek key design, has become one of the most recognisable brands across social media and in other images.

A little light history if you will. This decorative border is also called a meander or meandros. It recalls the twisting and turning path of the Maeander River in southwestern Turkey and is the labyrinth in linear form. It is thought to symbolise infinity and unity.

These, let’s call it an ‘homage’, from River Island, could fool even the biggest designer underwear fan. While the Versace Medusa head has been replaced by a bee - clearly these will be popular in Manchester - the rest looks almost identical and nobody on Instagram would ever know!

Versace greek key underwear black gold pants

Left - River Island - Black Printed Waistband Briefs 3 Pack - £15

Right - Versace - Logo Low-Rise Stretch-Cotton Briefs - £45 from matchesfashion.com

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Tuesday, 17 March 2020 17:10

Splash or Cash? The Box Brownie Bag

Box bag trend menswear mens Nappa Dori IndiaI think Loewe’s Puzzle Bag is the main influence here. The box shape is practical and distinctive, especially worn across the body. It looks like you're carrying a Box Brownie camera, while in fact the box shape is useful for your phone charger and any other bits you want to carry.

For the cash option, I recently discovered Indian brand, Nappa Dori, stumbling across their store in Covent Garden. The Nappa Dori name literally translated means 'leather and thread’ in Urdu. Founded in 2010 in Delhi by Gautam Sinha, a NIFT (National Institute of Fashion Technology, Delhi) graduate in Fashion Design, he had an epiphany that compelled him to discard conventional fashion design and explore the world of Indian leather and artisanal craftsmanship.

Left & Right - Nappa Dori - Nordic Brick Bag - £181.10

Box bag trend menswear mens Nappa Dori India

Nappa Dori supports Harmony House, a day shelter for destitute children in India that provides free food, shelter, clothing, education and medical care to the under privileged. As well as the flagship store in London, they are seven stores in India spread across Delhi, Gurgaon & Bombay.

While for the cash option, designer, Eudon Choi, has this square bag with a similar handle to the Puzzle in this handsome green colour.

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Below - Eudon Choi - Cardena Dark Green Leather Box Bag - £385 from Harvey Nichols 

Box bag trend menswear mens Eudon Choi

Box bag trend menswear mens Eudon Choi

menswear product of the week adam jones pub beer towel tank topNow it is out of bounds, it is the perfect time to celebrate the traditional pub. Welsh designer, Adam Jones’ presentation for his SS20 collection at LFWM in June was a confection of beer mats, beer towels and everything associated with your local boozer. It’s one part tacky, two parts nostalgia. I’m surprised his old enough (28) to remember beer towels at the bar soaking up the excess lager or bitter.

Anyway, I’m loving these beer towel tank tops, particularly the Tetley Bitter. They’re fun, a bit retro and obviously up-recycled. 

menswear product of the week adam jones pub beer towel tank topHis stockist is 50m at Eccleston Yards, a short walk from Victoria Station in London. 

This is the perfect time to support young British designers and he has a super cool Newcastle Brown Ale scarf for only £60. A steal.

Right - Adam Jones - Gold Cross Beer Towel Vest - £190

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Thursday, 12 March 2020 16:45

Menswear Product Of The Week The Parasuit

menswear product of the week parasuit suit raeburnWhile I’m not sure when the suit will return, if ever, as a fashion thing, one of the lovely gentleman who works at Raeburn was wearing this on their stand at the recent Pitti Uomo. The penny dropped and I thought, this is how you wear a suit today. 

Made out of a sort of shell material, it is easy care and looks modern and contemporary. Called the ‘Parasuit’ and crafted in the Raeburn Lab in East London using original dyed parachute material, it is reworked to achieve a textured and lightweight crinkle finish. This item is one of 50, and individually numbered and is the nearest thing to sportswear you're gonna find in a tailored shape. Great for travel too.

Left & Below Raeburn - Parasuit Jacket - £350, Parasuit Trousers - £250

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menswear product of the week parasuit suit raeburn

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